Toyota Forum banner

2011 Camry Hybrid to Gas Swap

12K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  tarheel73  
#1 ·
Hello, newb here I have a 2011 Toyota Camry with a bad hybrid battery , The battery is expensive (no brainer ) and I was looking for some alternatives , will The scion tc 2az-Fe fit in my 2011 camry?
Can my hybrid camry be converted to gas only ? what would be needed and roughly how much will it cost ? Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Most likely your hybrid battery is not "bad," but just one or a few cells are. There are a few dozen individual cells that make up your hybrid battery pack and they do not go bad all at once. There are lots of YouTube videos showing how to remove the battery pack (CAREFULLY), test each cell, replace cells, re-assemble and re-install the battery pack. This would be a lot less trouble than an engine swap with many non-matching parts. If you can somehow find out if it is the battery "pack" vs. the inverter that is the problem, that would be very helpful.
 
#5 ·
you will need:
- a normal transmission
- an ECM matching that transmission
- possibly different driveshafts
- possibly different cooling system
- hydraulic brakes system under the hood, as now you do not have one
- different ac compressor
- 12V battery and alternator
- charging system for 12V battery

Is it worth it?
 
#8 · (Edited)
The amount of money, time and effort spend to convert to gas only from hybrid is much more than selling the currently 'as is' and buy a gas only car.
Like all posters above already said, you may also need to replace the combination meter... Basically, the only thing left from the hybrid car is the shell and seat. It's a lot more trouble down the road if you go conversion route.
Or just use that conversion money and replace a NEW battery pack. I'm sure you still have left over money for a nice dinner.
 
#9 ·
ukrkoz, the Toyota Hybrids (all as far as I know) use Atkinson Cycle engines, which have the capability of a radically different valve timing. When the engine is off and the cam is locked, the intake timing is quite a bit retarded from the normal 2AZ. I really don't think the normal ECM is programmed to control that extra retard, and I seriously doubt the HV engine ECM would operate in anything except a hybrid. As a consequence, believe it or not, I don't think you could ever work out the bugs except by also replacing the engine.

Crazy, huh? :dunno:
 
#10 ·
There are more fundamental issues:
  • The hybrid engine uses a much higher static compression ratio than the ICE-only version. This means that it would likely not run with the non-Atkinson valve timing. Given the head bolt history of this block, I would doubt the setup could tolerate that high a dynamic compression ratio and resulting cylinder pressure.
  • Even if you could get it to start, the Atkinson cycle would have lousy low to mid-RPM torque. The PSD and MG1/MG2 torque dance covers that nicely. With a stepped tranny, the car would have a hard time getting out of its own way.
  • The ECU also controls the PSD. The old school stepped tranny is fundamentally incompatible as far as inputs and control circuits.
  • There is no provision for the old school starter motor with the hybrid motor, including controls and wiring.

Bottom line - the hybrid powertrain is a unit engineered for a specific purpose. The engineering compromises that work out OK with the PSD make the engine unusable with an old-school tranny.
 
#14 ·
Thanks everyone for their replies Was busy so I couldn't check the forums but I did take a look a the lights the car turned on

The check-engine light
Brake system warning
Master warning
Slip indicator

Could their be a possibility that this is another problem not the hybrid battery?
 
#18 ·
CEL ON...probably has set a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) Get ecm scanned & if dtc shows, then u gotta find out what code is for & go from there. Otherwise, pointless guessing.

btw...dont know on hybrid, but if u have autozone in your area ask um if they can scan for dtc's on yours & might even be free. They did free scan on my old non-hyb. car with CEL on & even got printout for possible issues. Just a thought. Good luck.[/QUOTE]


Will do thanks for your reply !
 
#21 ·
CEL ON...probably has set a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) Get ecm scanned & if dtc shows, then u gotta find out what code is for & go from there. Otherwise, pointless guessing.

btw...dont know on hybrid, but if u have autozone in your area ask um if they can scan for dtc's on yours & might even be free. They did free scan on my old non-hyb. car with CEL on & even got printout for possible issues. Just a thought. Good luck.

Will do thanks for your reply ![/QUOTE]

You need Techstream or equivalent scanner to scan hybrids. Don't even bother with parts stores.
Techstream is actually free off their website. A so called Mongus OBD2 to USB cable can be purchased online for some $30 and voila, you have laptop with Techstream s/w on it. Scann all you want to.

Simple Googling gives you idea on know how for battery buses cleaning:

http://imgur.com/gallery/j8Bcp
 
#22 ·
Particularly in Hybrids, all the systems talk to each other through networking because they are so interrelated. If you have a problem centered in the hybrid system, every system that is affected (engine, brakes, charging, VSC) will report a problem and set a code. It is likely the root is simply the battery, especially with the master light on, but it is best to check.
 
#24 ·
I have seen that post referred to several times, but they never post what the code was. I just recently repaired a TCH battery that had all the lights on, but it was not the P0A80 (I think that's it), which is "replace battery." It was a low voltage code and I found where a connector on the harness had broken. How in the world that happened, I couldn't tell you, only that it did. But almost regardless of which code was set, if it was a hybrid battery code the dealer has almost no choice but to recommend the replacement... Toyota offers almost no parts to repair and won't stand behind any repair that is done. Whether this is something that could be done for you is entirely dependent on the code that was set. And as has also been stated, if it is a corrosion problem, the cells are likely leaking and it will only be a matter of time before you are facing the same problem again. Granted... some time is better than none, but just be aware that this kind of repair may not be permanent at all.

But Ukrkoz is right, the codes that are readily pulled by the locals won't give you enough information. You will need Toyota software to really figure out what's going on.
 
#26 ·
Yeah, the P0A80 is "replace the battery," but until someone can pull the codes from the Hybrid Computer, you won't really know why. It can be from cells going low, or it can be from connection issues.

P0420 is usually a bad catalytic converter, but can possibly be caused by 02 or A/F sensors. Usually it is the cat, though. The best way to tell that I have seen is to watch the output of the B1S2 O2 and see what happens. The ECM judges a bad cat if the rear O2 is reflecting too much movement particularly after it has warmed up some.

God luck!
 
#28 ·
So heres the update car didnt start a few times and had to be jumpstarted After I changed the 12 volt battery which cost me $100 at my local junkyard the car shut all the lights off and is functioning like normal !!! Thanks everyone for their reply