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2011 Camry Low Transmission Fluid?

5.5K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  TheFoxRocks  
#1 ·
Hey guys,

So as some of you might know I recently elected to change the fluid in my 2011 Camry. I used and followed the Temperature Detection Mode to the letter except for two things that could be causing my issues. The first was that I also changed the filter which caused me to get a lot more fluid out. I think most people said on a drain and refill you only get out 2-3 quarts maximum and if I remember correctly I easily got 4-4.5 quarts. The second is that the vehicle may have been unlevel. I checked it with a torpedo level and ended up moving it to a more suitable place but was not perfectly level. It was also jacked up a little more on the front as opposed to the back so I guess it could have biased more fluid into the pan.

Okay so before this becomes complicated the reason I think it may be low on fluid is when I first put it into drive or reverse it needs extra acceleration to get it moving. I am no transmission expert but when transmissions have been low in the past these are the kind of symptoms I run into. There is also a little bit of "slipping" present while driving and I have been driving my truck since I noticed these symptoms. As always any feedback and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I figure I have two choices, one of which is to take it to a dealership and ask them to check the fluid level. I would like advice on this too. For instance, I think there are various ways to check the fluid, so do certified shops have a way to check the fluid level while it is warm/hot? Specifically, is it a red flag if they say the can check the fluid on the spot, should I expect them to keep it while the fluid cools to the recommended temperature etc? I ended up buying another gallon of Valvoline MaxLife so I still have some left over. So that leaves me with my second choice, which is to jack it back up, try to make certain it is more level this time, add a couple quarts to it and put it into TDM and check the fluid again.
 
#3 ·
Yes, I did. This is what I used. I measured it and added in a little extra fluid. It is worth noting I added fluid twice because the first time I was not quick enough and the transmission got too hot. However, the second time it went very smoothly. I got under the car as soon as the light started flashing, took out the bolt and as soon as I saw the trickle I put the bolt back in.
 
#4 ·
Disconnect the battery, let the juice discharge from the car. Connect it after 15 ish mins

Camrys have to relearn idle and sometimes it causes issues with acceleration.

What I would do is, I’d get the fluid I need and go to an independent local garage to tell them to change my fluid. They’ll charge labour only and the fluid levels will be correct. And if anything goes wrong you can bring it back to them lol

You have balls. I wouldn’t touch the transmission myself
 
#5 ·
I guess so lol. Another user on here told me that it is much more straight forward than people think. I totally agree, after you have done it once it is definitely not difficult. Just I guess what I am finding out now is there is a lot of room for error. There needs to be a better way introduced to check the fluid, either by a traditional dipstick or some kind of electronic device that can tell you whether or not it is low. Because even in the videos like Car Care Nut they always "recommend checking the fluid level again after the car has been driven". I am not an expert but I have changed the fluid in a lot of stuff, several transmissions and many transaxles over the course of my life. The one thing I find in common is it does not matter how well you think you bled or circulated the fluid after you have used it awhile it always takes more. Every single time I have gotten fluid right and "circulated or bled the system" it will always take more later.

So I am guessing these cars are probably the same exact way. After you drive the car around, transition through all the gears, go up and down a couple hills what was once "at operating level" no longer is. I have done a couple GM 4L60e transmissions and both times I cycled the fluid by shifting gears and even drove the vehicle around the yard a little. After I got the truck to town the fluid was no longer even showing on the dipstick.
 
#8 ·
How did you access the transmission inspection and drain plug? Was it easily accessible just by hand and from which side/angle. As per my reading the transmission pan is located just behind the driver side front wheel. Did you have to Jack the car (and from where) to be able to access the drain bolt? How did you end up leveling the car and test for it the second time? I don’t have a lift so I am trying to figure out if I can do this without raising the car?
 
#9 ·
As far as I know this transmission (and similar ones) are shared among several other vehicles. Since you said "car" I'm guessing you mean Camry and yes I had to jack the car up to access it. I have another forum where we talked about leveling. I actually had to move the car to get it more level. I used a torpedo style level and confirmed the vehicle was level.

I personally do not think it would be possible to do without jacking it up. Please read more on the following forum, specifically post #2 where ToyotaFan links Toyota's procedure for changing it. I would not say it is complicated but it is definitely involved. You have to bridge a couple pins on your OBD2 module to get the car into Diagnostic Mode first. You also have to be quick when you are checking the level because the transmission heats up quickly. I would say read the manual and my experience.

I think if there were two things I would point to here it would be if you are dropping the pan there is one bolt that required a wobble socket. I could not get a swivel socket to work. All the rest were easily accessible. The second is that I think my transmission fluid is low and have been avoiding driving the vehicle. Again I did check that the vehicle was very close to being level. I suspect like all transmissions after you have driven it around and fully circulated the fluid it requires more. In my personal experience every transmission I have ever done required more after say driving it to town. I had an old Silverado that was showing just overfilled on the stick and after I drove it around my neighborhood and got it home the stick was dry. I also cycled the gears before going for a drive.

Again the following forum has my entire experience and the community helping me along. I highly recommend checking it out. I need to fix an exhaust leak and put new front brakes on it and plan to add more fluid and do another fluid check. In low gears or coming off idle it acts like it needs 'extra acceleration' to get it moving and to me that is a hint that it is low on fluid. Hope this helps and good luck.

 
#10 ·
I am quite aware of the drain fill procedure and how to do the fluid level check. I have also practiced getting into the temperature detection mode and see how much time I have before the fluid gets too hot. My issue is finding a correct spot to do the fluid change and leveling since I just have street parking. I guess I will have to use two Jack stands up front and two Jack stands or scissor jacks in the back to level the car. Will look up what a torpedo level is. Thanks
 
#13 ·
I guess I will have to use two Jack stands up front and two Jack stands or scissor jacks in the back to level the car. Will look up what a torpedo level is. Thanks
I have never needed more than TWO jack stands and ONE jack to lift and level the vehicle.

I first lift the vehicle from the center jack point between the two front tires and lift high enough to place two jacks stands underneath the BLACK FRAME bar, the same bar where the motor mounts are attached to.

I then lift the rear of the vehicle from the center jack point between the two rear tires, and continue lifting until the torpedo level(s) I attached to the ATF pan shows the bubble at or near dead center. I leave the jack in place under the rear of the vehicle throughout the whole procedure.
 

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