When my 2010 failed at highway speed, there was no sound, just coasted to a stop. I don't remember if there was a dash light that came on, but it was my manual transmission had detonated. That was 8 years ago at 110k. Salvage tranny has been flawless since.

 

Was there any signs beforehand? the tranny has never had any issues and was running strong until the engine died. No grinding, no clutch slipping,

 

No warning, but I had taught two of my kids to drive stick on that car, so that likely contributed.

 

Have you checked your MAF sensor?

 

Sounds electrical. Many of the issues I can think of that could cause it to not start would also throw up a code, it is odd you are not getting a check engine code of any kind. Does your check engine light work? when you turn your key on does it light up then turn back off?

Usually, even a problem in the computer itself, such as a short in the computer will tend to still throw up a code of some sort indicating an issue with the component or sensor that runs through that circuit on the computer.

I would be scratching my head about ways to keep the engine from firing up that would NOT throw a code. I think a fuel issue would be one, clogged filter, bad fuel, the issue with the injectors etc. Maybe the computer is giving an inproper fuel air mixture that will not combust. I would throw a battery tester on the battery and test it and the alternator. Check your air filter, look for anything that might be obstructing airflow from the intake to the throttle body, pull off the hose to the throttle body and clean the throttle body and visually confirm that it functions when you press the gas pedal. I would maybe try spraying some starting fluid into the air intake while someone cranks to see if the engine tries to fire up or not, if it does then you may have a fuel or mixture issue. Maybe disconnect the main connectors to the computer and then plug them back in, in case something came a little loose. Check all your hoses, and electrical connections for any damage or something that came loose such as the plugs to the VVT solenoids, any issue with those again should be throwing up some kind of code. Does the engine turn over ok?

It could be the computer, but that is an expensive part to "throw" at it without being sure. Is the dealer going to cover the costs to look at it? If not, do you have a local non-dealer shop in your area?

I did have a computer go out on my old dodge. I think it had a cracked soder point on a board. It would drive great until the engine compartment warmed up enough to heat up the computer then all of a sudden I would lose power like I let off the throttle, sometimes it would just die like I turned the key off. I had to pull over with the hood up, let everything cool down then it would drive normal for a little while till it heated up again. The dealership wanted $600 just to look at it, Not work on it or fix it, just look at the computer. Another $1600 to replace it if it was bad. That was more than the trucks bluebook value. I said Hell no, Limped it home and ordered a refirbished pre programed plug and play computer from a company in florida for like $200. I gave them my Vin number and exact mileage, they sent me a pre programed refirbished computer a week later, I installed it in like 10 minutes and the truck ran great for a couple years until I blew up the transaxle one night.

If you end up finding out you need a new computer, I do not know what a new one costs for your car but if you want to try a refirbished you can try these guys..Flagship One Looks like the one for your car runs $359 They do come with a lifetime warranty. so if the first one you plug in has any issues they will replace it right away or if it goes bad 10 years from now. Well lifetime of their company anyway. I do not know how that price compairs to what the dealership will sell you, Maybe a replacement from somewhere else or even oem will be even cheaper. I am just putting that source out there if it turns out to be much more expensive which was the case in my truck anyway at that time. I did for $200 and 10 minutes of simple labor what the dealership wanted to charge me $2,200 for.

 

Check codes, if nothing had ecu die on older car just died crank no start, had shop figure it out

 

Get ready for a long wall of text. I have a 2013 corolla L with manual transmission and 1.8 L engine. It has 99,000 miles.Ive had it for 5 years and 50,000 miles. It has been babied and has had all of its maintenance except transmission flush at 100,000 miles. the only modifications are cruise control addition right after I got it. a few months ago, it died going about 75mph. no warning, no sputtering, just turned off. the battery remained charged, and the radio continued playing. no Check engine lights. I tried restarting it, no luck. It cranks but will not start. I checked engine fuses with no blown fuses. had 1/2 tank of fuel. it was eventually towed back home . I suspected fuel pump and picked up a cheap one to see if I could make it work. installed and no change.

I began troubleshooting. Im 99% certain it has fuel, fuel pressure is 55 Psi and there is fuel in the cylinders after trying to start it. it has spark on all cylinders. compression test showed 145 in all cylinders. no security lights. nothing that indicates a problem. I tried crankshaft position sensor replacement, camshaft position sensors, checked throttle position to make sure it was not throttle. It seems like it should just start. spark plugs were replaced. battery is less than a year old.

after pushing it into the garage, I rechecked every fuse. No blown fuses. I checked every relay and all seem to open appropriately. When hooked up code scanner and the live data seems accurate. Temp sensors read 40 degrees ( same as garage). it registers throttle position, clutch depression, fuel injector it responds when there are changes. no immobiliser codes. no check engine codes.It recognizes the check key as the master key as well. I drained the fuel tank in case of bad gas and flushed the lines. checked for bad ground. I put a camera under the valve cover and don't see obvious damage to rockers and dont see any damage to the timing chain or cam gears.I cleaned and checked the vvt selenoids and they seem ok. I have no idea what else it could be. I would normally take it to the dealer, but I live 150 miles from the nearest dealer and it would cost a fortune to tow it. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and know my way around a wrench, but this has me stumped.

Anyone have any suggestions? Is it time to get a new ECM ?

I've seen 2009 and up do this when a coil pack dies. I had one that did the same. The moment I replaced the bad coil pack it fired to life. If one goes bad replace them all and keep the old working packs as spares.

 

Check your compresion. Mine died and the top timing chain guide had lost its plastic and the chain sawed the metal part in two. The loose piece went between the timing chain and crankshaft sprocket. It bent four valves. Same symptoms as you describe. You do not hjave to pull the engine to replace all the valves, timing chains and sprockets and water pump while you are in it. Cost me about $400 to fix it. I could have done it for less had I bought all the valves and gaskets in one e-Bay bundle. You can get another bundle that gives you all the timing parts and water pump together. The pan timing cover and oil filter are all put on with RTV silicone. I had to practice placing the timing chain cover about 6 time before I was confident I could do it without wiping off the RTV. Bits of metal in the oil are another clue. There is a secret bolt on the head that a Haynes manual willl not identify for you. Its on the back passenger side buried in a pit hidden with oil.

 

This may be a silly question, but did you check the timing?

 

Does this model have timing belt?

 

Get ready for a long wall of text. I have a 2013 corolla L with manual transmission and 1.8 L engine. It has 99,000 miles.Ive had it for 5 years and 50,000 miles. It has been babied and has had all of its maintenance except transmission flush at 100,000 miles. the only modifications are cruise control addition right after I got it. a few months ago, it died going about 75mph. no warning, no sputtering, just turned off. the battery remained charged, and the radio continued playing. no Check engine lights. I tried restarting it, no luck. It cranks but will not start. I checked engine fuses with no blown fuses. had 1/2 tank of fuel. it was eventually towed back home . I suspected fuel pump and picked up a cheap one to see if I could make it work. installed and no change.

I began troubleshooting. Im 99% certain it has fuel, fuel pressure is 55 Psi and there is fuel in the cylinders after trying to start it. it has spark on all cylinders. compression test showed 145 in all cylinders. no security lights. nothing that indicates a problem. I tried crankshaft position sensor replacement, camshaft position sensors, checked throttle position to make sure it was not throttle. It seems like it should just start. spark plugs were replaced. battery is less than a year old.

after pushing it into the garage, I rechecked every fuse. No blown fuses. I checked every relay and all seem to open appropriately. When hooked up code scanner and the live data seems accurate. Temp sensors read 40 degrees ( same as garage). it registers throttle position, clutch depression, fuel injector it responds when there are changes. no immobiliser codes. no check engine codes.It recognizes the check key as the master key as well. I drained the fuel tank in case of bad gas and flushed the lines. checked for bad ground. I put a camera under the valve cover and don't see obvious damage to rockers and dont see any damage to the timing chain or cam gears.I cleaned and checked the vvt selenoids and they seem ok. I have no idea what else it could be. I would normally take it to the dealer, but I live 150 miles from the nearest dealer and it would cost a fortune to tow it. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and know my way around a wrench, but this has me stumped.

Anyone have any suggestions? Is it time to get a new ECM ?

Get ready for a long wall of text. I have a 2013 corolla L with manual transmission and 1.8 L engine. It has 99,000 miles.Ive had it for 5 years and 50,000 miles. It has been babied and has had all of its maintenance except transmission flush at 100,000 miles. the only modifications are cruise control addition right after I got it. a few months ago, it died going about 75mph. no warning, no sputtering, just turned off. the battery remained charged, and the radio continued playing. no Check engine lights. I tried restarting it, no luck. It cranks but will not start. I checked engine fuses with no blown fuses. had 1/2 tank of fuel. it was eventually towed back home . I suspected fuel pump and picked up a cheap one to see if I could make it work. installed and no change.

I began troubleshooting. Im 99% certain it has fuel, fuel pressure is 55 Psi and there is fuel in the cylinders after trying to start it. it has spark on all cylinders. compression test showed 145 in all cylinders. no security lights. nothing that indicates a problem. I tried crankshaft position sensor replacement, camshaft position sensors, checked throttle position to make sure it was not throttle. It seems like it should just start. spark plugs were replaced. battery is less than a year old.

after pushing it into the garage, I rechecked every fuse. No blown fuses. I checked every relay and all seem to open appropriately. When hooked up code scanner and the live data seems accurate. Temp sensors read 40 degrees ( same as garage). it registers throttle position, clutch depression, fuel injector it responds when there are changes. no immobiliser codes. no check engine codes.It recognizes the check key as the master key as well. I drained the fuel tank in case of bad gas and flushed the lines. checked for bad ground. I put a camera under the valve cover and don't see obvious damage to rockers and dont see any damage to the timing chain or cam gears.I cleaned and checked the vvt selenoids and they seem ok. I have no idea what else it could be. I would normally take it to the dealer, but I live 150 miles from the nearest dealer and it would cost a fortune to tow it. I'm a motorcycle mechanic and know my way around a wrench, but this has me stumped.

Anyone have any suggestions? Is it time to get a new ECM ?

UPDATE:
I finally found the problem. I did a cylinder leak down test on the cylinder with the worst compression. It had a little leakage about 15 percent from cylinder out the dipstick tube which is fairly normal. The valves sounded completely sealed. I drained all the oil overnight to drain the head. I pulled the valve cover and found that every single valve roller/rocker had dropped. They were all laying in the the bottom of the head. I had posted on Reddit and a Toyota tech told me that it usually comes from over-revving or missing a shift. That didn’t happen to me, but I do have a working theory. My nephew borrowed my car and accidentally filled it with regular gas. I think the combination of high speed and possibly some detonation from the lower octane may have cause it to happen as the timing was still intact. They are surprisingly easy to push back into place but none of them are damaged. I am waiting for new valve lash caps to arrive before reassembly. Also two caps were missing and presumed to be in the oil pan. I sent a camera down the timing and down the dipstick and haven’t found them. I plan on removing the pan this weekend to retrieve them when I’m not working so much.

I guess I should say that the original inspection today the valves with the camera showed only one piston and the valves I could see had the rockers in place. The rest of the valve roller and rockers were dropped the 2 I could see from the oil fill cap were in place.

 

Sounds like it was over-revved to me. Are you sure your nephew didn't over rev it?

 

Simon you mentioned the compression test was 145 psi on all cylinders. I saw a test video for 2007-2013 and the dude tested 195psi for 1,2 cylinders, 205psi for the 3 cyl and 210psi for his 4 cyl making an average of 200 psi pressure to run his engine. Maybe your chain got loose and jumped a few teeth???