Here was my install on a 2010 Second Gen
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...er-2nd-generation-2008-2013/479633-ham-radio-nmo-install-highlander-2010-a.html

1) No clue, but might be the same as a second gen take a look
2) Doubtful BUT if the battery is not 100% charged then it will disable Stop/Start, So if you drain the battery then it "Could" Affect it
3) Just fuse positive, no reason to fuse neg.

1) DON'T DO IT
2) It's very unlikely to hear alternator whine if you connect directly to the battery, mine is silent with full quieting.

WELCOME to the forums!! 73's

 

1. Best spot is the passenger side grommet . There are a couple options.
2. No clue, I can only hope.
3. ?

1. I would think running 12 amps might be at the tip of the max. If you fry the wires, it is your call.
2. Its hard to say, but likely. Its a hit miss based on insulation and where you run the wire.

 

3. If you run the negative lead to the battery, as used to be common practice, it must be fused. Rather than retype all the reasoning, I will include some good links below.
3a. It is best practice to run the negative lead to a chassis ground point near where the battery is bonded to the chassis, NOT to the battery directly. In this case, a fuse is not required on the negative lead and may actually cause some problems.

Good information on the subject:
https://www.w8ji.com/mobile_ground.htm
http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html
http://www.arrl.org/forum/topics/view/115

 

I have just purchased a 2018 Highlander Limited as a replacement/upgrade from my 2010 RAV4 V6 Limited. In Canada the Limited is available only with the options included in the 'US Platinum Package'.

I am preparing to install my ham radio equipment and have determined a location for the radio (under driver's seat), for the display head (in the shelf below the main screen), the antenna (mag-mount mid-roof, behind the moon roof, for now at least), and the routing of the heavy-duty power wiring from the battery (enters through the passenger side firewall grommet). In the RAV4, I had a power relay mounted at the battery to turn on/off the radio with the ignition, controlled by a wire from the cabin interior fuse block, and I am hoping to do the same in the Highlander.


I have a way to pick up fused, ignition-switched voltage from the interior fuse block, but I am not sure how to 'easily' get that from the driver's side to the passenger side so it too can be passed through the firewall grommet. There doesn't seem to be much open space between the two sides underneath the dash.


Does anyone have any suggestions? Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

The UHF installers connected the hot wire directly to the battery with a fuse, the ground was grounded to the vehicle. The wires went through the firewall rubber grommet on the passenger side. The box placed under the passenger seat , and the head on the shelf. .
Just wanted to mention that the passenger firewall rubber grommet is really easy to go through to run your wires.

 

Camelk, thanks for the reply.

As noted above, my proposed installation will be 'similar', except that I will be placing the radio beneath the driver seat because I keep the seat adjusted to 'full height', providing plenty of air around the radio to eliminate any overheat problems, and I want the radio to shut off with the ignition; so, I plan to reuse my power relay assembly at the battery. The only place I found on the RAV4 and Highlander that has ignition-switched power available is the interior fuse block. Unlike the RAV4 which did have one or two empty fuse positions, the Highlander has none - all fuse positions are in use; so, I am proposing to use a piggy-back fuse holder in one of the 'Power Outlet' fuse positions to get switched power for the relay.

I can see the easily accessible passenger-side firewall grommet from the engine compartment, but have not yet found it inside the cabin. Perhaps it is behind the carpet or the glove box. If anyone knows and could let me know it would be appreciated.

My biggest issue at the moment is getting that relay control wire from the fuse block just above the driver's left foot position across to the passenger-side firewall grommet through the centre console beneath the dash.

I have made some progress, as I have been able to (gently) push a straightened coat hanger wire through from just below the glove box to just above the accelerator (see attached photos). This could act as a fish to pull the relay control wire through. However, the coat hanger was pushed through 'blind', as the trim blocks any visible pathway through the console beneath the dash and I don't know what may be inside there that could be problematic.

Potential problems I have considered are:
1) something mechanical that moves, such as vent dampers, et al, that either the wire could impede or that could damage the wire over time
2) something that can run very hot that could melt the insulation on the wire causing not only a smell and small mess, but also a potential short, spark and/or fire.

I was hoping someone would have already had occasion to do something inside that area and would know what is in there. Failing that, I will pick up some trim removal tools and have a look for myself.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

 

The grommet for firewall, is just right of the center console, passenger left foot position... about 10-12" above the floor. Yes, behind the carpet. You can lift the hood and see them from the engine bay. There is another, but the passenger side is the easiest to get at.
That should help get the relay control wire through.

I have rewired the stereo system and got thick gauge wire from battery to back of car, and routing the wires using that grommet without any heat issues nor moving parts that would interfere with the wires. Of course I made sure they are snug, well tied down and no cut insulation.

 

When I ran some wires through the center console, I removed the top portion of the center console, so I can see where my wires were running. So if you are concern about where your wires are running through the center console, I would remove the top of the center console, so you can see the path where your wires are running.
Read Phil Indeblanc's remarks on where the passenger firewall's grommet ends up inside the vehicle.

 

Camelk, I just noticed you removed the 'top portion' of the centre console, not one of the sides. Exactly what did you remove, and can you give a clue on how to go about it?

Thanks.

 

Phil Indeblanc and Camelk, your replies are much appreciated.

Phil Indeblanc's description of where the grommet is located on the inside is very helpful, as I was presuming it to be further to the right (closer to the passenger right foot area). Now I can focus any carpet 'tugging' action in the correct area. Is the carpet 'glued' in place and is it difficult to lift? Can it be lifted without removing trim?

I live in a rural area and have just ordered a set of trim removal tools; so, when they arrive I will attempt to see inside for proper wire routing. Camelk, when say you removed the top portion of the centre console, what/how much did you actually have to remove in order to run wiring through there? After popping off the trim, did you also pop out the vents and 'infotainment' electronics?

On my old RAV4 none of this was necessary, as I could see a pathway through that same area when I laid backwards on the seats (with backs reclined) with my head down in the footwell.

Thanks.

 

The carpet is not glued, so can just tug on it.
If you are running the wires through the center console, and want to see the path of your wires. I removed the top panel where the trans shifter is to see down in the center console. .
First remove the two padded trims where your arm rest on the storage compartment. Than the two vertical panels where your USB and other switches are. Push the shifter rubber boot down, and unscrew the shifter, than you can pull up the top panel, and you can see into the center console. I might have skipped a step.

 

Phil Indeblanc and Camelk,

My trim removal tools have not yet arrived (expected at the end of next week), but I was able to remove by hand (fingers) the side trim pieces to the right of the passenger foot area and alongside the passenger door, as that is where I plan to run the power wiring to my radio before turning it under the passenger seat then under the carpet and across to the radio under the driver seat. By the way, the power wire is marine grade, 10ga., and the relay control wire is 18ga.

I have tugged out the carpet at the front of the passenger footwell, only to find a moulded rubber piece that appears to be covering the entire area against the firewall, and it does not look easy to remove. Any comments on how to handle it?

Also, I have more carefully checked the location where I am seeing the rubber firewall grommet from the engine side and, unlike the indication that it is located more towards the passenger left foot location, mine appears to be more towards the passenger right foot location. When I then check inside with the carpet pulled back, that location appears to coincide with a moulded 'bulge' in that rubber piece covering the inside of the firewall. Although we are all dealing with 3rd generation models, could there be a difference in the grommet location from year-to-year?

I note that there is a cable bundle plus a soft rubber item, presumably a hose for the rear washer, passing through the grommet I am seeing. Does that sound like we are referring to the same grommet?

Thanks again for your input.

 

The best way to see where the rubber grommet from the firewall leads to, is to stick a wire clothes hanger through the rubber grommet from the engine compartment, and feel where the hanger is going through the firewall from the inside.
Just run your wires under the carpet, and not under the molded rubber piece.

 

Camelk,

I had carefully tried to do that this morning, but I could not get it to push in very far and did not want to push too hard because I was pushing through the hole in the grommet that passes what I am presuming to be a washer fluid hose (it is above the centre hole through which the cable bundle passes) and I did not want to take a chance on puncturing the hose.

As I was working on my own, I was unable to be on both sides at once and, therefore, unable to see any 'movement' in the moulded rubber 'sheet' covering the inside of the firewall.

I would prefer not to put a hole in the rubber piece but, if it is too difficult to remove, then I would be okay to create a hole in it for the wiring to pass through. However, it's a catch-22 as, without removing the rubber piece, I may not be able to determine exactly where the grommet is and to make a hole that would align with where my wires will pass through the grommet. I suspect the moulded bulge in the rubber may coincide with the cable harness as it exits the grommet, but I am not certain.

I don't think the straightened coat-hanger I was pushing made it far enough to get through the grommet but, if it did, it would have been stopped by the rubber sheet.

 

As I look at the grommet from the engine compartment the grommet is gray in color, and I think I see a small black hose going through, besides other wires. It must be the same one.

 

Yes, that the grommet I am seeing from the engine compartment, but I need to get an exact location on the inside and that rubber sheet is preventing me from seeing it.

I will have to get something stiffer than a coat-hanger wire, but with a blunt end to avoid damaging the hose. Then if I can push it through, perhaps it will create a mini-bulge where it is pushing against the rubber sheet.

It used to be so simple to mount and wire amateur radio equipment in vehicles! I had V/U mobiles in my 3 Camrys and RAV4 - no problem. I even had an HW-100 HF rig installed in my '67 Sunbeam Tiger with no problem. Of all those vehicles, my 2018 Highlander has the best mounting location for the display unit and easy mounting for my V/U radio, but the wiring is taking much, much longer than anticipated.

 

Would love to see some pictures of your progress and finish!
Please share.

Cheers!

 

Yep my display head is on that shelf, and it's easy to see it.

 

Found it!

I purchased a 1/8" diameter steel rod (stiffer than my coat-hanger), filed the ends round and free of any 'sharpness', and tried to push it through the same grommet hole as the rear washer hose to the left of the cable bundle - no luck! I guess the hose fits too tightly.

So, as I have a 12"-long 1/8" drill bit, I carefully drilled a hole on the other side of the grommet, to the right of the cable bundle and was able to push the rod all the way through. Then, I removed a horizontal trim plate below the glove box, peeled back multiple layers (carpet, et al) and, when I reached up behind the glove box, I was able to feel both the cable bundle and the end on the rod. That was when I knew exactly where the grommet was located from the inside - behind and essentially midway across the glove box.

The attached photo angle is not dead square to the dash, but the notch at the top of it is the midpoint of the glove box.

Now I have to figure out how to stretch or open the hole large enough to accommodate a 2-conductor #10 with a #18 wire taped to it.

I am still waiting for the trim removal tools to arrive so I can access the center console underneath the dash.

More later...

 

I just shoved the coat hanger through the rubber grommet next to the tubing, and it went all the way through. I didn't have to drill any holes. Well at least you found the exit.

 

I installed my CB radio in the center console and used the 12volt outlet in there to provide power. I then drilled a hole in the back/bottom/left side of the console to run the antenna wire through and ran the wire to the left rear door for the roof magnetic antenna - center roof just behind the moon roof. No issues...great reception and transmission.

 

Thanks all.

I have made some progress in that I have the relay control wire and 2-conductor #10 power cable pulled through the grommet, across the engine compartment, and around to the battery at the front. I also have my ignition-switched power relay/fuse assembly mounted at the battery.

N.B., I have not yet connected the power relay/fuse assembly to the battery, nor have I completed supporting the pulled wiring, but you can see from the attached photos 'where' I am routing it and the general ways in which I am supporting it. There is one more photo, a close-up of the last one herewith because my power cable jacket is white and difficult to see. Including it now would exceed the limit, so I will upload it subsequently.

You can see that I have also routed the power cable from the grommet over the back of the wheel well, beneath the passenger door and under the passenger seat.

Still to be done, in addition to more support for the wiring inside the engine compartment (including tie-wraps or spiral wrap holding the red relay control wire to the power cable), is to pull the power cable under the carpet and across to below the driver's seat where the radio will be. I also need to pull the relay control wire (#18 red wire) through the center console to the fuse block above the driver's left foot area, and that raises some questions.

How does one remove the center console panel? I see and can remove a ~1"square cover just in front of the passenger seat, which exposes what appears to be an M6 bolt head. Does that bolt need to be removed?

Also, on that same center console side panel, under the dash I can see a round button that is likely a snap-in retainer, and I should be able to remove it. Does anyone know what else is required to remove that passenger side panel of the center console?

Thanks in advance.

 

Here is the aforementioned 'close-up'.

 

First remove the two padded trims where your arm rest on the storage compartment. Than the two vertical panels where your USB and other switches are. Push the shifter rubber boot down, and unscrew the shifter, than you can pull up the top panel, and you can see into the center console. I might have skipped a step.
I did not remove the sides of the console.

 

Here's mine. I used the passenger side grommet also, but it took a while to get my wires through it. For the upper radio I actually put 2 holes in the dash. It took a while to get the courage to do that .

73 - W2DHS, Dave.

 

Following.

Just got my 2019 HiHy this week, replacing a Jeep Wrangler. I'm looking to mount a Yaesu FTM-400DR. I think I'll put the antenna using a lip mount on the right side of the hood (on the Jeep I had it on the left since the radio antenna was on the right). The main unit can go under a seat or maybe mounted to the side of the center console; there appears to be enough room to not get in the way of my or the passenger's legs, and if I put it on my side I can probably hear the speaker without mounting an external one somewhere. The mic goes to the main unit so if that's not near me I'll have to use the extension cable. For the head unit I'll have to experiment but I don't want it blocking any controls or ports, but it still needs to be within reach. One of the pics in this thread showed it to the right of the clock, but that's a long reach for the driver...

Thanks and 73,
Erik - W1QED

 

I think I'll put the antenna using a lip mount on the right side of the hood

So today I did wire up my antenna, used a long 1/8" drill to make a hole through the grommet and was able to fish the RG-174 w/ SMA through the hole.

Now I need to figure out where to tap power. I have the hybrid so the battery is in the back, and it doesn't look easy to just tuck the wire along the carpet since there is some hard plastic up to the edge under the second row seats (captain chairs).

Does anyone know if it's feasible or safe to use the tap in the fusebox for jump starting?

 

Scattered thoughts

Pardon my scattered thoughts this morning, wasn't expecting to write this and just came across this post.
For my 2015 LE Plus, I used the same grommet on the passenger side. I routed everything down the center console though to get under the seats and such. There is so much room in and under the center console, at least for the LE+ model with no premium sound. I almost contemplated putting my radios in there but figured it would be a pain to keep getting in there for service or changes. For antennas I drilled NMO in the roof (no sunroof). Front hole is centered and right before the roof starts to slope down. Pulled down the ceiling light console to gain access to underneath to route the coax. Coax goes to the front then down the A pillar to behind the dash. Important Note: Remove the entire A Pillar cover to make sure the coax is routed to NOT interfere with the airbag or breakaway clips. You want it behind the bag and its mechanisms. Rear antenna is about 3-4" in front of the Sirius antenna. Grabbed the coax with a magnetized wire puller and gentle pulling down of headliner behind weather stripping. Routed that coax down the rear pillar driver's side (no airbags), then under the plastic up (can easily take out the drivers side hidden storage compartment and side panel) and over the wheel, then under the rear door trim to the driver's seatbelt anchor area. It pops out and is visible running under driver's seat.

In 2015 my goal was to install scanner and transmitter in a way that didn't modify anything interior, kept all safety functions intact (airbags, I had started a family), and looked professional. It was my first "off-the-lot" car and that removes a lot of courage for interior mods (although no problem drilling NMO's, I just measured 5x before cutting once). Now coming into 2019 with kid boogers in the back, I'll be drilling two small holes into side of center console near gearshift for a mic clip instead of using a cup holder.

Scanner (whistler 1098 for remote head) is under pax seat. Cat5 cable with right angle plug goes up to the dash shelf. I removed a blank from the buttons near the USB port (and moved buttons over) to route wires through the USB hole from center console to the shelf. Original transmitter was a Powerwerx DB-750X with remote head kit. Both heads were mounted with RAM mounts and a sticky ball mount under the roof of the dash shelf. However summer heat melted that real quick so they floated there for a while. I then upgraded the transmitter to a Kenwood TK-5710 (full public safety radio) which required legit support for its remote head. So I removed the top of the dash shelf (climate controls) and the plastic roof comes out. I then drilled holes and bolted two RAM ball mounts to the roof instead of using sticky. They are invisible, and made a huge difference in supporting the heads.

Scanner speaker I have mounted right in front of gear stick using the screw that supports part of the center console to the front dash area. I left the curvy piece of plastic trim off. Speaker and mount is small enough to fit there and supported by screw. I want my mic clip there but don't think that same screw going into plastic will handle daily use of unclipping the mic, so I'll have to drill some small holes near there. The Kenwood audio right now is inside the center console under the gear stick area. It works, but the space makes it boom more and requires me to turn it up to get the highs through. I'm experimenting on other speaker locations for that, which doesn't get in the way of an airbag (knee or driver seat).

To remove the center console storage, take off the cop by the gear stick, then undo the bolts on each side down by front feet area. Then the two screws you can see in one of my pics right where the fold-down lid is. Then in back seat area unclip the plastic floor cover in front of the rear DC power plug is to reveal two more bolts. The entire box slides and comes out to get a lot of working room. Also, all the Cig Lighter DC outlets in the vehicle are behind ignition power, so you can tap any of those for ignition sense.

I've photographed the whole thing for a post like this, but they're scattered at the moment. I'll eventually make a full and more detailed post on the Radio Install section of the Radio Reference Forums online.