milky white?
same shit on my uncles old 90 pickup...it was a cracked block

 

does the engine run?

If so check to see if coolant is getting in to any of the cylinders.

You are right that usually when you have coolant and oil mixing both ways it could be a head gasket issue.

Pull the valve cover and inspect the timing chain Look at the drivers side guide, if it breaks then the chain will rub through on the cover until coolant leaks into the oil.

 

The motor runs and runs great... Somewhere i read that if its the timing chain wearing a hole in the housing, you will hear a racket when you first start it... I hear the racket like the chain slapping the side for about 5 seconds.. Then it sounds good.

Vicoor, How do i check to see if anythings in the cylinders...

Thomas

 

do a compression test and see if the compression is very differant from each cylinder, also you can crank your truck up and take the radiator cap off and see if it is bubbling in the radiator, however some of these methods can show up nothing and ithat still doesnt mean that your gasket is ok. some just slowly leak water, another good method is to take your spark plugs out and see which one has a bunch of carbon all over it ,but the best method is the compression test that will tell you which cylinder is leaking from the gasket, if all these show up without any results your best bet is the timing cover, and this can be a pain in the rectum due to toyota design, when you put your timing cover back on ur going to run into the problem of hiting the headgasket near the top of the timing chain cover " 22 r and 22 re " engines all have this, just remove the old gasket were the timing cover meets the head and put a layer of high temp silicone on the inside and outside of the timing cover, email me if you run into any problems or have any questions

 

Put a pressure tester on the cooling system and pressurize it to about 15psi. Remove the spark plugs and maintain the coolant pressure for an hour or so. with the sparkplugs still out crank the engine and see if any coolant comes out the spark plug holes.

do a compression test and see if the compression is very differant from each cylinder,

If your head gasket is so bad that it would show up on a compression test, then it would blow the coolant straight out as soo as the engine was started.

another good method is to take your spark plugs out and see which one has a bunch of carbon all over it

A blown head gasket will allow coolant into the combustion chamber cleaning most if not all of the carbon deposits from the afflicted cylinder.

Look at this thread for a more complete list of signs of a blown head gasket http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t177919.html

 

Ok, So i did the compression test and the results are as follows

#1 168psi
#2 162Psi
#3 168Psi
#4 161 Psi.

How does that sound to yall... Looking at the cylinders with my little scope light.. All still have carbon deposits and no sign of anything wearing off from the coolant etc..

Thomas

 

compression looks good,

But the head gasket could still be leaking,

check you PM

 

Ok, On the the next part lol.

I got the valve cover removed, and you can definately tell that the driver side timing chain guide is gone... You can also see grooves in side where the timing chain has worn into it... So now, would it be best to pressure test the radiator, and see if i can see water squirt out of the timing chain cover...

Also, if it is the timing chain cover, i assume it would be best to replace the timing chain and the guides.. Right?????

Ive seen many people say you can replace the timing chain cover witout pulling the head off... Is this possible, without making it too hard to do

Thomas

 

if you can see groves where the chain has worn into the houseing--(AT ALL)--- END OF STORY ! NOT A HEAD GASKET !!!


replace the houseing, chain, tensioner, guides(2), water pump, drain the crankcase and replace the oil filter-- it can be done without takeing the head off------

i replaced mine two weeks ago-- pulled the head, but would not pull the head if i were to do it again !!!

 

If you know someone who welds aluminum you can save a few bucks and have them repair your old one . I have several that I have taken to him . I get them for free and fix them and resell them for 35.00 used.

 

Ok,

So i confirmed it was the timing chain cover.. Pressure tested the cooling system and watched the water squirt out right below where the water pump goes....

Now, I know i should pull the oil pan.. Only problem... I cant get the crossmember off, and dont have a clue of what to do about the pitman and idler arm... Anyone have pics of what exactly needs to be removed..

I have a little time, will be waiting on the new cover and the timing chain kit coming from engbldr....

Anything else you guys think i should do while ive got it all undone....

Thanks guys... Yall have made this alot simpler

 

You can unbolt the idler arm from the frame and let it hag down with the drag link. you'll have to unbolt the steering stabilizer, the crossmember (it will come off) and the sway bar.

There are two brackets between the sides of the block and the bottom of the bell housing that must be removed then you should be able to drop the pan.

If you are going to do the cover without removing the head, take the oil pump off and remove the oil pump drive collar from the crankshaft. This will give you a lot more room to move the cover aroud when going back on with it and save some damage to the head gasket. Make sure you get everything clean and dry before you reassemble it and use good sealant such as "right stuff" by permatex, or Toyota F.I.P.G.

 

If it's a 2wd there is 4 bolts that hold the crossmember in. I know they can be a MOFO but it is the only way to get the oil pan off , try using a cheater bar on your ratchet. as for the pitman are and idler arm I unbolted the idler arm from the frame and used a pitman arm puller remove the pitman arm (you can use loan a tool at most parts places if you don't have one ) there only like ten bucks . then I let everything hang down and you can slide the oil pan out ( it has to come down then forward) . while you have it down you should remove the oil sump and clean it . you will find ground up plastic from the guide stuck to the wire screen , use a good wire brush and some gas to clean it.

 

Ok Thanks guys..

I see where i can get the idler arm off from the frame... The pitman arm i can manage too im sure.... Now if i can just get that MOFO Crossmember off.. Ill be in business.. I used my impact to get 3 of the crossmember bolts out, but cant get the dern last one..

 

you can get enough clearance by dropping the idler arm, you don't ahve to disconnect the pitman arm.

 

BUT--- you DON'T have to remove/lower the oil pan !!!

I would remove the fan shroud and fan, then the radiator (just for more room to work)--

i'm sure that there is directions on the board if you look a bit----

 

Ok guys, All the parts are ready... Everything is cleaned and ready to go. Now, since im new to engine work in this generation.... Do i put an RTV type gasket sealant on the front and back of the gasket... etc... Just need to know how exactly to do the timing chain cover gaskets.

Also, since i didnt pull the head.. I want to put the timing chain cover on without the oil pump right and oil pump spline drive... SO the question is, once i put the oil pump back on... Before that does the spiline just slide in easily or is there some trick i need to know... The oil pump gears itself, do they fit an exact way.. I see little triangles on each gear, is there a certain way they MUST line up.

Thomas

Ps... I still havent gotten the pan off, but going to get it all back together, then take the pan off before i ever put oil in etc.. Just waiting on a friend with some backbone lol

 

Using RTV sealant on gastets is not a good idea. It acts as a lubricant and can cause the gasket to squeeze out fron between the parts. Use something like Permatex spray gasket adhesive. apply this to both sides of the gasket and allow it to "tack up" before assembly.

You will want to use some RTV on both sides of the headgasket where it sticks out from under the head. and also to seal the oil pan to the block. Be careful not to use more than just enough to "fill the gap" so you don't have to much squeeze out and clog your pickup screen.