[06YarisRS]

So, slight change in plans. I got the reman head, and all looked good initially. Once torqued onto the block and cams installed, I couldn’t rotate the engine, it hit. Messed with cam rotation (chain not installed) to no avail. Pulled the cams and still no rotation. Wtf? Pulled the head and discovered the pistons were hitting. Actually observed the combustion chambers and realized they were nearly gone. A few measurements later and concluded the head had been machined .070” from new. No bueno!
I pulled my head down and found 4 of the 8 exhaust valves were bent. Everything else looked great. The 4 valve stem buttons I couldn’t find in the head after my incident were found safely in the oil pan.
I took some pics of the new head showing clearance issue, and returned it for a full refund.

Not sure how this made it out of surfacing and through assembly and inspection.
View attachment 325576

Wow, head decking gone bad. I hope they were apologetic. Did they offer you anything for your inconvenience? I wonder if there is a thicker head gasket available for the 2ZR. So, did you decide to go with upgraded springs/retainers etc? Was there any damage to the pistons?

 

[FishHawk1]

I pulled all the valves in my head today. On the bench, rag under valves, 5/8” on top of retainer wrapped in rag, quick rubber mallet wack. I have a cheap HF valve spring compressor that I used to put the straight valves back in.

...5/8” deep socket on top of retainer...

 

[FishHawk1]

Wow, head decking gone bad. I hope they were apologetic. Did they offer you anything for your inconvenience? I wonder if there is a thicker head gasket available for the 2ZR. So, did you decide to go with upgraded springs/retainers etc? Was there any damage to the pistons?

They said all rebuilt heads are surfaced like that. I explained there is a tolerance that cannot be exceeded. I wasn’t looking for anything other than my money back, considering my head looked repairable.
They do make spacer shims that stack with the head gasket, however the thickest I found was .020” and I could not find any for the 2ZR. One of the other threads leads me to believe the head is not designed for resurfacing.

Order four new exhaust valves from Toyota parts house. I’m not changing springs or retainers. I will hand lap the valves briefly, because I have the tools and compound. The valves and seats all look amazing considering the mileage. Actually everything looks incredibly good.
I just hope the angle on the new valves matches the seat, otherwise I’ll have to figure that out.

 

[06YarisRS]

Hey Fishawk1. There was a guy who regularly posted on Yarisworld. His handle was "Kou". He's got a turbo'd Yaris, running 12 - 14 psi boost and running the F/IC. He and I have been talking about our cars, fueling systems etc and he's going to try to help me out with my F/IC. I guess he's got his dialed in pretty good. Whatever I glean from him, I'll be sure to share.

Have you done any more on your car?

 

[FishHawk1]

Hey Fishawk1. There was a guy who regularly posted on Yarisworld. His handle was "Kou". He's got a turbo'd Yaris, running 12 - 14 psi boost and running the F/IC. He and I have been talking about our cars, fueling systems etc and he's going to try to help me out with my F/IC. I guess he's got his dialed in pretty good. Whatever I glean from him, I'll be sure to share.

Have you done any more on your car?

That’s awesome news on the Fic lead. I look forward to your learnings.
I finally got my motor back together, and sitting on the dolly to go back under the car. The four new valves lapped in nicely, and everything has gone back together well.
I was delayed waiting on the new valves, then we took a long weekend road trip. I hope to be back on the road this weekend.

 

[FishHawk1]

It’s been a while... the went in well and runs great. No changes in anything, performance or data logs. So happy about that. Put about a 1000 miles on it and the only issue was right side trans seal got damaged putting the axle back in. Not much, but any oil on the driveway is no bueno in my book. I also learned a bit about the front end alignment after installing Megan coil overs. I set up and tried a few different tweaks from factory alignment that Didn’t do much for daily driving.
I was hoping to remedy torque steer, but anY gain there was lost in general driving. Basically which ever way the drive tire is pointed when in a boosted pull, that’s where the car goes. More times than not it can be a hand full. I’d be really interested in hearing someone’s similar experience, followed by the installation of an LSD.
I haven’t messed with the Fic, although I need to smooth transition to idle a bit. I’m not getting any lean cuts or boost cuts for that matter. Max boost is 10psi and is rarely reached below third gear.
The testing and data for the O2 skewing table only gets as rich as about 12.5afr. Certainly helpful, but not as rich as I would like to have seemingly control of.

 

[06YarisRS]

It’s been a while... the went in well and runs great. No changes in anything, performance or data logs. So happy about that. Put about a 1000 miles on it and the only issue was right side trans seal got damaged putting the axle back in. Not much, but any oil on the driveway is no bueno in my book. I also learned a bit about the front end alignment after installing Megan coil overs. I set up and tried a few different tweaks from factory alignment that Didn’t do much for daily driving.
I was hoping to remedy torque steer, but anY gain there was lost in general driving. Basically which ever way the drive tire is pointed when in a boosted pull, that’s where the car goes. More times than not it can be a hand full. I’d be really interested in hearing someone’s similar experience, followed by the installation of an LSD.
I haven’t messed with the Fic, although I need to smooth transition to idle a bit. I’m not getting any lean cuts or boost cuts for that matter. Max boost is 10psi and is rarely reached below third gear.
The testing and data for the O2 skewing table only gets as rich as about 12.5afr. Certainly helpful, but not as rich as I would like to have seemingly control of.

Great news, man! I've been pretty lucky handling-wise with my HSD coilover setup, but, yeah, I don't tend to boost heavily until I'm closer to 60 - 70 km/h, otherwise I get right wheel spin. Once it hooks, hold on. LOL. I hope the Firehawks help a bit. I'm running an old - quite old - set of UHP tires and the rubber is pretty dried out hard in comparison to the yet to be installed Firehawks. Hoping to be able to achieve full boost at 40 - 50 km/h once they're installed and 'warmed up'. 12.5 AFR would actually be a good AFR, I think, for my setup as I have the water injection. Right now, it can dip down to the 10s and usually ends up mid to high 12s but full boost in a long pull. Although I'm considering a fuel pump upgrade, I did a test (02 voltage input) and could achieve a healthy 10:1 AFR (or richer) under max boost. I think the stock pump is up to the task. Again, getting those perfect 02 voltage inputs and matching fuel table numbers seems to be the challenge.

I'm interested in the tweaks you did to your alignment. Did you try some different camber settings? I just had mine aligned to spec. I was talking to a guy who referred me to an local outfit that tunes coilover kits. Not sure of it's the 'corner-balancing' that I've heard of. I guess that's more for track applications, but maybe they can 'tune' them for a street application.

 

[FishHawk1]

Great news, man! I've been pretty lucky handling-wise with my HSD coilover setup, but, yeah, I don't tend to boost heavily until I'm closer to 60 - 70 km/h, otherwise I get right wheel spin. Once it hooks, hold on. LOL. I hope the Firehawks help a bit. I'm running an old - quite old - set of UHP tires and the rubber is pretty dried out hard in comparison to the yet to be installed Firehawks. Hoping to be able to achieve full boost at 40 - 50 km/h once they're installed and 'warmed up'. 12.5 AFR would actually be a good AFR, I think, for my setup as I have the water injection. Right now, it can dip down to the 10s and usually ends up mid to high 12s but full boost in a long pull. Although I'm considering a fuel pump upgrade, I did a test (02 voltage input) and could achieve a healthy 10:1 AFR (or richer) under max boost. I think the stock pump is up to the task. Again, getting those perfect 02 voltage inputs and matching fuel table numbers seems to be the challenge.

I'm interested in the tweaks you did to your alignment. Did you try some different camber settings? I just had mine aligned to spec. I was talking to a guy who referred me to an local outfit that tunes coilover kits. Not sure of it's the 'corner-balancing' that I've heard of. I guess that's more for track applications, but maybe they can 'tune' them for a street application.

I guess I should have added the worst torque steer is probably in 2nd gear. First runs out so quick, however 3rd and any kind of turning or road ridges. We do a lot of ~3’ wide paving strips around here, so two new strips per lane where the normal width vehicles typically run. The Corolla usually has one side on new, the other on old. The taller ridges, albeit small play havoc in a strong pull.
It’s possible, or probable the O2 skew limit of 12.5 would be fine. This should be safe to about 5psi boost, and I’m pretty sure the ecu is in or nearing open loop at that point, WOT or otherwise, where in theory just fuel table adjustments should be needed to dial AFR. I don’t run my engine in boosted state long enough for LTFT in that region to be an issue. My AFR’s in open loop will drop to 10+ at times, typically longer pulls.
I’m currently running Goodyear Eagle Sport 225/40R-18 tires. My first set of this model and I’m happy. Good all around traction, decent looking and a nice functional curb guard, on 8” wide wheels.
My coil overs have camber plates, however they have not been moved from 0 degrees. I have added individually and combined, camber and toe-in. This was accomplished with the lower strut mount bolts. Anymore than about 1/8” toe-in didn’t handle well in standing water. It was however the position with least amount of torque steer. I’m super happy with general all weather handling at 1/16” toe-in and probably 3 degrees of camber. Not much more than stock spec. I haven’t messed with the back wheel alignment at all. I should probable see what that toe-in is after the coil overs.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

I guess I should have added the worst torque steer is probably in 2nd gear. First runs out so quick, however 3rd and any kind of turning or road ridges. We do a lot of ~3’ wide paving strips around here, so two new strips per lane where the normal width vehicles typically run. The Corolla usually has one side on new, the other on old. The taller ridges, albeit small play havoc in a strong pull.
It’s possible, or probable the O2 skew limit of 12.5 would be fine. This should be safe to about 5psi boost, and I’m pretty sure the ecu is in or nearing open loop at that point, WOT or otherwise, where in theory just fuel table adjustments should be needed to dial AFR. I don’t run my engine in boosted state long enough for LTFT in that region to be an issue. My AFR’s in open loop will drop to 10+ at times, typically longer pulls.
I’m currently running Goodyear Eagle Sport 225/40R-18 tires. My first set of this model and I’m happy. Good all around traction, decent looking and a nice functional curb guard, on 8” wide wheels.
My coil overs have camber plates, however they have not been moved from 0 degrees. I have added individually and combined, camber and toe-in. This was accomplished with the lower strut mount bolts. Anymore than about 1/8” toe-in didn’t handle well in standing water. It was however the position with least amount of torque steer. I’m super happy with general all weather handling at 1/16” toe-in and probably 3 degrees of camber. Not much more than stock spec. I haven’t messed with the back wheel alignment at all. I should probable see what that toe-in is after the coil overs.

I've never been a huge fan of Goodyear tires so it's good that you like them. I'm using Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ tires and I love them. They are amazing on dry and wet roads and corner like crazy. I'm using a 225/45R17 as I feel that it's the best combination for handling, ride, and weight. I don't notice too much with torque steer either unless the roads are bad in some form or fashion.

 

[06YarisRS]

I guess I should have added the worst torque steer is probably in 2nd gear. First runs out so quick, however 3rd and any kind of turning or road ridges. We do a lot of ~3’ wide paving strips around here, so two new strips per lane where the normal width vehicles typically run. The Corolla usually has one side on new, the other on old. The taller ridges, albeit small play havoc in a strong pull.
It’s possible, or probable the O2 skew limit of 12.5 would be fine. This should be safe to about 5psi boost, and I’m pretty sure the ecu is in or nearing open loop at that point, WOT or otherwise, where in theory just fuel table adjustments should be needed to dial AFR. I don’t run my engine in boosted state long enough for LTFT in that region to be an issue. My AFR’s in open loop will drop to 10+ at times, typically longer pulls.
I’m currently running Goodyear Eagle Sport 225/40R-18 tires. My first set of this model and I’m happy. Good all around traction, decent looking and a nice functional curb guard, on 8” wide wheels.
My coil overs have camber plates, however they have not been moved from 0 degrees. I have added individually and combined, camber and toe-in. This was accomplished with the lower strut mount bolts. Anymore than about 1/8” toe-in didn’t handle well in standing water. It was however the position with least amount of torque steer. I’m super happy with general all weather handling at 1/16” toe-in and probably 3 degrees of camber. Not much more than stock spec. I haven’t messed with the back wheel alignment at all. I should probable see what that toe-in is after the coil overs.

Sorry for the delay in responding. We have a large dumpster in our side yard as we're doing some extensive spring cleaning in preparation to list our house. It's been busy, haha.

I have wondered how much of a difference a manual would make, but I can imagine that 1st gear in boost would be short-lived, lol. Indeed, my car runs perfectly with great AFR at WOT. Again, it's that transition or holding around 2 - 3 psi with steady throttle where I may get the occasional buck. Even very slowly advancing the throttle in these ranges yields a perfectly smooth rise and great AFR. I haven't tried Kou's tune, but will soon. I did pop the TK base tune back in and it's perfectly smooth, but starts to get into lean spots in boost.

It's nice that you have camber plates. The coilovers that I have use the stock mounts, though camber adjustment on mine could be achieved at the control arm. So far, I'm very happy with the handling characteristics with the factory specs.

I bet those Eagle Sports look great and handle amazingly well. I hope to have my Firehawks installed within a week or so.

 

[FishHawk1]

Sorry for the delay in responding. We have a large dumpster in our side yard as we're doing some extensive spring cleaning in preparation to list our house. It's been busy, haha.

I have wondered how much of a difference a manual would make, but I can imagine that 1st gear in boost would be short-lived, lol. Indeed, my car runs perfectly with great AFR at WOT. Again, it's that transition or holding around 2 - 3 psi with steady throttle where I may get the occasional buck. Even very slowly advancing the throttle in these ranges yields a perfectly smooth rise and great AFR. I haven't tried Kou's tune, but will soon. I did pop the TK base tune back in and it's perfectly smooth, but starts to get into lean spots in boost.

It's nice that you have camber plates. The coilovers that I have use the stock mounts, though camber adjustment on mine could be achieved at the control arm. So far, I'm very happy with the handling characteristics with the factory specs.

I bet those Eagle Sports look great and handle amazingly well. I hope to have my Firehawks installed within a week or so.

Time flys when your busy... so up until earlier this week, I had not messed with the tune much. The cars has been running great. No other issues yet, as a result of the money shift incident.
earlier this week, I copied my tune; fuel and maf and then added in the O2 / AFR table, plugged in the desired AFR’s to the O2 table and loaded it. I did not pull power and clear the ecu. The result is a more stable AFR and power delivery. I have only collected Torque logs so far. I tried a day after the tune, but my laptop battery died just as I started logging AEM and Innovate Logworks.
I’ll give that a go again pretty soon, but just as it is right now. My fuel trims are closer than they were. I have not changed the fuel map at all but have some trimming to do between 1000 and 2500rpm at least.
prior to this, in a closed loop pull I would experience intermittent boost cuts do to AFR’s. Now it pulls smoothly and strong to redline.
I have never seen the AFR’s so smooth through a pull until I went WOT and they stabilized rich. There is one new oddity, and that is off throttle decel. The AFR used to go nearly immediately to 22.5 on dedicated gauge. Now most of the time it goes rich; 12-13. Then eventually to 22.5. Sometimes this takes a few seconds.
I’ll post more when I get the other logs to look at.

 

[06YarisRS]

Time flys when your busy... so up until earlier this week, I had not messed with the tune much. The cars has been running great. No other issues yet, as a result of the money shift incident.
earlier this week, I copied my tune; fuel and maf and then added in the O2 / AFR table, plugged in the desired AFR’s to the O2 table and loaded it. I did not pull power and clear the ecu. The result is a more stable AFR and power delivery. I have only collected Torque logs so far. I tried a day after the tune, but my laptop battery died just as I started logging AEM and Innovate Logworks.
I’ll give that a go again pretty soon, but just as it is right now. My fuel trims are closer than they were. I have not changed the fuel map at all but have some trimming to do between 1000 and 2500rpm at least.
prior to this, in a closed loop pull I would experience intermittent boost cuts do to AFR’s. Now it pulls smoothly and strong to redline.
I have never seen the AFR’s so smooth through a pull until I went WOT and they stabilized rich. There is one new oddity, and that is off throttle decel. The AFR used to go nearly immediately to 22.5 on dedicated gauge. Now most of the time it goes rich; 12-13. Then eventually to 22.5. Sometimes this takes a few seconds.
I’ll post more when I get the other logs to look at.

This sounds great! So your partial throttle/partial boost AFRs are not fluctuating and are mirroring the values that you entered? I must know more!

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

This sounds great! So your partial throttle/partial boost AFRs are not fluctuating and are mirroring the values that you entered? I must know more!

I was talking to Travis my tuner last week when I took my 2017 Corolla iM to have him run it on the dyno. He was telling me that the AEM F/IC is perfect for what we are all doing and is more than capable to handle fueling when under boost. When not on boost it's like it's not even there. He said that it should be no problem to get your F/IC to run things as smoothly as mine does. You just need to find a tuner that knows his stuff!

Here is some dyno time from my Corolla iM. I gained 43-44bhp with simple bolt on mods and no tune.

 

[FishHawk1]

I was talking to Travis my tuner last week when I took my 2017 Corolla iM to have him run it on the dyno. He was telling me that the AEM F/IC is perfect for what we are all doing and is more than capable to handle fueling when under boost. When not on boost it's like it's not even there. He said that it should be no problem to get your F/IC to run things as smoothly as mine does. You just need to find a tuner that knows his stuff!

Here is some dyno time from my Corolla iM. I gained 43-44bhp with simple bolt on mods and no tune.

You didn’t happen to ask Travis if he used the O2 table and map in the Fic did you? I’m finding much better control of afr using the table. I also found that I need to pull fuel similar to what Travis mentioned in some other post(s).

 

[FishHawk1]

This sounds great! So your partial throttle/partial boost AFRs are not fluctuating and are mirroring the values that you entered? I must know more!

They are not mirrored yet, but much closer and more importantly, so much more stable. I feel like I am beginning to understand the ecu and Fic relationship. The last few changes I made resulted in the outcome I was after, and predicted for the most part.
This last week I dialed my fuel trims. First try, estimated from log data, netted LTFT in normal driving range of 0-3.1 idle was 10.9 and resulted in a couple stalls when leaving a stop. I made some changes in that region and dialed idle in. World of difference in rpm - transition - hold when STFT isn’t swinging all over the place. Currently after three four days driving, LTFT is 0-2.3 from idle to about 3200rpm.
After trims settled, I logged a couple third gear pulls. The first was at 64% throttle, the second at WOT. Both had similar results with WOT reaching slightly higher boost, and lower afr. Both pulls resulted in what I believe to stumbles from over enrichment. I believe I’ve heard the term fire out. Anyhow, at about 4500rpm, AFR’s drop to low 10s then 9s. In the low 9s I have a stumble which causes a fuel trim then afr recovers followed by pull, then a repeat. After the second stumble in each situation I was near 6k so let off.
I scoured the data from torque, aem logger, and Innovate logworks, and pulled some fuel up in the boost region from about 4K, 5psi to 6.5k, 15psi. Boost controller is set to max @ 10psi.
I’m looking forward to seeing how my latest fuel adjustments work out.
I was reading through the lotus thread. I’m intrigued, but not surprised that the bone stock Corolla hardware can handle 265hp. Intrigued, because it gives me a little more room to safely experiment. Not surprised because of my experience so far. I’ve logged 15psi one time. It was quick and strong in second. Tires followed by stock clutch couldn’t hold it. That pull reached redline, never stayed in dangerous afr, but was all over the place as most transition and boost driving.
Then of course there was the money shift. That logged about 8.5-8.6k rpm. As far as I can tell at this point the only damage was the 4 slightly bent exhaust valves, which I replaced.
at some point I may post up a couple snips of log data evolution.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

You didn’t happen to ask Travis if he used the O2 table and map in the Fic did you? I’m finding much better control of afr using the table. I also found that I need to pull fuel similar to what Travis mentioned in some other post(s).

I didn't but then again I don't understand a lot of the stuff that you both talk about. It would be great to get together sometime so that maybe I can learn about it better.

 

[06YarisRS]

An exhaust mod...and a little bonus.

Night Racing in "Mexico"

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

An exhaust mod...and a little bonus.

Night Racing in "Mexico"

View attachment 401965

Nice to see you again! I've been wondering how things were going with you. Good to see the 2ZR Turbo Yaris again! I was up rolling around the mountains the other day! Did you see my BBK I installed? I also did a rear drum to disc conversion.

 

[06YarisRS]

Nice to see you again! I've been wondering how things were going with you. Good to see the 2ZR Turbo Yaris again! I was up rolling around the mountains the other day! Did you see my BBK I installed? I also did a rear drum to disc conversion.
View attachment 402048
View attachment 402049

Hey. Things are going great. Been the best summer ever from a car enthusiast perspective. Got a lot of new car buddies and the Yaris has racked up a lot of kms this summer. Moving back to the city = best ever.

I haven't seen your BBK install. Congrats on that and on the disc conversion. Did you have to upgrade the master cylinder to accommodate the larger fluid capacity? I know - at least on the Yaris platform- that the conversion results in a soft pedal unless the MC is upgraded.

 

[SuperchargedMR2]

Hey. Things are going great. Been the best summer ever from a car enthusiast perspective. Got a lot of new car buddies and the Yaris has racked up a lot of kms this summer. Moving back to the city = best ever.

I haven't seen your BBK install. Congrats on that and on the disc conversion. Did you have to upgrade the master cylinder to accommodate the larger fluid capacity? I know - at least on the Yaris platform- that the conversion results in a soft pedal unless the MC is upgraded.

So where did you move?

No MC upgraded needed. The pedal feels great and the stopping power is so much better. Here are the videos from my YT channel on the process.