Rebuilding a carb isn’t super hard but it takes a lot of patience and a good clean work area. Figure out what screwdrivers, wrenches, and circlip tools you will need before you begin.If you can, get the rebuild kit and try to do it yourself. You will learn a lot and it won’t cost a lot. Worst case, if you can’t get it back together again properly, you just take it to a specialist and have them finish the job for you. I would trust the quality of an original carb that I have rebuild myself way more than something I was able to pick up off-the-shelf these days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hey, if you get carburetors figured out, you will be a genius. I tried to pull the carb on my Pa's irrigation pump, couldn't even figure out where it was. XD

Someday I'd like to learn how to rebuild them too, coz I have a few things that would be working again if I could, such as a 1970s snowmobile, a weedeater, etc. (I have tried the Seafoam route also but I guess rebuilding is sometimes the only option, because Seafoam can't do anything if the thing doesn't start!

I do know some engines can stumble / run poorly due to fouled spark plugs and a dirty air filter, which if you fix those it runs great again for a while, but that is just going off the aforementioned irrigation pump. O_O

Maybe try a Google search of '1989 Corolla carburetor rebuild' or else search that same phrase on YouTube? Plus I'd imagine an original Toyota Service manual might tell how to do it?

Good luck, hope you get it figured out.

 

I have the FSM for a 85 fwd 1.6L carbed. I can take some photos of the rebuild for the carb for you

 

Is this carb adjustable?

If it's starving for fuel, likely it's pump related or even fuel pressure. Does it idle high?

 

Basing my answers off my Corolla, it has a pump (mechanical) about 1 foot from the carb, it has like 3 small screws (require a screwdriver) and one big one (can adjust by hand) (idle speed screw) on the firewall side

 

Might not even be carb problem. Very likely could be ignition and distributor issues.

1. measure vacuum at advance-diaphragm nipple when cold and idling
2. measure vacuum at advance-diaphragm nipple when warmed-up and idling
3. measure vacuum at advance-diaphragm when warmed-up and revved to 3000rpms

4. measure ignition-advance when cold and idling
5. measure ignition-advance when warmed-up and idling
6. measure ignition-advance when warmed-up and revved to 3000rpms

 

lieblos 1 - Even if I end up not having to rebuild the carb, I would love to have some pictures for future reference!

75aces - Everything I read about the carb says that there is very little adjustment. I'm aware of the location of the mechanical fuel pump and the idle speed adjustment, but haven't tried to track down other adjustments points just yet. The car idles high when warming up, but in that particular RPM range you can hear the miss. Several minutes after starting the idle settles back down and it idles perfectly.

DannoXYZ - The advance diaphragm is located on the side of the distributor, correct? I'm not familiar with testing ignition advance. Any tips?

 

DannoXYZ - The advance diaphragm is located on the side of the distributor, correct? I'm not familiar with testing ignition advance. Any tips?

First you’ll need a timing light. It flashes pulse of light when it detects cylinder#1 firing so you can see exact degrees BTC when it fires. https://www.harborfreight.com/timing-light-with-advance-40963.html

Then follow this procedure:

 

Ditch the stock carb and do a Weber conversion. The carbs of that era between carburetors and fuel injection suck! You will never get to run well. Too much crap to mess up. Also those carbs. are calibrated to run on gasoline with not ethanol. IMHO you are just pissin' in the wind with out the Weber. Hondas of that vintage are even worse. Nobody repairs those carbs. There is a nightmare configuration of vacuum line and doodads on those carbs, it all goes in the scrap pile. If you are concerned with emissions or fuel mileage, buy a car with modern EFi/OBD II.
http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/toyota/

 

Cool site, someone who wants to race a carbed Corolla might find help there.
They do state that all 3 digit K do not meet California emissions, but one they sell does. Most of that site is for racing.
Roughly you'd need 20 foot of vacuum line to redo all lines (I did it already) and any hoses (pcv, air bypass, ect....) one thing I found on mine was the EGR modulator hose on the bottom got melted and wasn't doing anything.

 

Here is a few photos I took recently I needed, I'll be back with more

 

On a car this old you should check that all the vacuum diaphragms are holding vacuum also. You just need an inexpensive hand vacuum pump. If the vacuum advance on the distributor is leaking then you won't get the proper advance. That can cause the hesitation.

 

I'm getting ready to dump a crap ton of photos, starting in emissions then into fuel

 

Okay so first before anyone complains all information I'm providing comes from here

it's earlier but similar.
Now let's get started..... This is emissions

 

Fuel.....

 

Also, on my 85 it does NOT have a check engine light (no connectors to jump). I pulled the cluster and looked everywhere. So this car had thrown me for a loop since it DOES have a computer but it does NOT have trouble codes. Any ways here are a few more photos I think will help.

 

Sorry that my phone is stupid, I keep it in portrait mode but it decides which way it wants to take the picture I see now

 

Lieblos, you're the man for uploading that stuff. I really appreciate it. I will make my way through those uploads this evening.

I tested vacuum this weekend. Vacuum is perfect other than when it has the slight, repetitive misfire at midrange rpms. Even then, it NEVER drops lower than 18hg. Just a very minor, repetitive drop. I have seen several failed coils inside distributors cause this same issue, so I tested spark at each cylinder with an inline spark tester. The car never loses spark even when the light miss is present. I think we can rule ignition out. The car is 30 years old and was driven an average of ~1500 miles per year. I really am thinking the carb just needs rebuilt.

 

Keep in mind all info I provided is from an earlier model. My car has the 4A-LC you've got the 4A-F
I've done a ton to my 85 and it's still running rich (I've got a a/f meter I installed temp) I do like the idea of capping off the AAP. I'm working on another car of mine first, but I plan to rebuild the carb, I've already got a kit I ordered. I've heard of the float going becoming logged with gas and no longer floating.
I plan to do my water pump on mine and if the car still overheats I'm going to do the head on it (not my first head on a 4A) that could be half my issue.