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9005/9006 to h4 conversion help

14K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  trd808  
#1 · (Edited)
im looking at the wiring diagrams that i can find and theyre making no sense. it looks like the want me to use half of the factory wiring harness to power both headlights.

example: cut the drivers side 9005/9006 harness and run the drivers side and passenger side h4 bulbs off of it and leave the factory passenger side untouched and tucked away.

is that correct?

im wanting to to do the jdm headlight swap but i dont want to do it in a sketchy fashion you know? any help is appreciated and i know a lot of you have done this and have experience doing this.

things im going to need:


2 5 pin relays
2 5 pin relay connectors
2 h4 connectors
4 9005 male connectors
2 h4 bulbs



done with the swap:

here are my harnesses

Image


lights

Image
 
#2 ·
This is pure speculation on my part,but I am confident in this :D Relays are used to connect A to B, in this application, I am guessing the relay is used to supply power to the lamps.

The H4 lamps use 80W of power or more, sometimes 100 or 130W. The stock lamps draw 55W or 65W. So you cannot use the factory lamp wire to power these lamps as they might overheat and start a fire. The relay is used to supply power to the lamps. One side of the relay (A) will be connected to the battery, the other side (B) to the lamp. Normally they are not connected. But when a third wire (C) is powered, the relay trips and power (A) is connected to the lamp (B). In this case, the third wire (C) is connected to your factory lamp wire. When you turn your factory lamp switch on, the power (C) turns on the relay and power (A) is sent to the H4 lamps (B).

Hope that wasn't too confusing!

This headlight swap includes the actual headlamp assembly that the bulbs sit in correct? If the H4 bulbs are just inserted into the factory lamp enclosures designed for 9005/9006, the glass could overheat and explode.


im looking at the wiring diagrams that i can find and theyre making no sense. it looks like the want me to use half of the factory wiring harness to power both headlights.

example: cut the drivers side 9005/9006 harness and run the drivers side and passenger side h4 bulbs off of it and leave the factory passenger side untouched and tucked away.

is that correct?

im wanting to to do the jdm headlight swap but i dont want to do it in a sketchy fashion you know? any help is appreciated and i know a lot of you have done this and have experience doing this.

things im going to need:

Wire
2 5 pin relays
2 h4 pigtails
2 h4 bulbs
1 15amp fuse?


am i missing anything?
 
#4 · (Edited)
The H4 lamps use 80W of power or more, sometimes 100 or 130W. The stock lamps draw 55W or 65W.
Standard H4s are 55W low, 60W high, not 80 or 100 or 130...

And if anyone wants them, I've got the factory electrical wiring diagrams for the H4-style headlights on my photobucket account, Australian models had H4s standard.
 
#3 · (Edited)
You don't need to cut the harness. I had this set up for my H4s with one relay for each side. The essential thing to remember is that the low beams are switched positive (normally grounded, switch creates voltage) and the high beams are switched ground (normally hot, switch earths the circuit). This, the H4 connector diagram, and an understanding of basic electrical circuits will get you where you need to be. If you want to run power directly from the battery, you'll probably want two relays per side...the first setup to use the existing harness for 'signalling' and then instead of using those outputs to make the H4s hot, use the outputs as control inputs to the second relay, which would then controllably switch power from the battery (put in a fuse, we don't want to see any 7th-gens burning) straight to the respective bulbs.

I suppose you could get away with a single relay from half the harness for signal, firing a single relay for a split feed to both bulbs, but....if it were my car, I'd do it independently, redundantly, so you've still got at least one bulb and at least one circuit if things do burn out / go wrong.

Edit: Get yourself 2 9005 female connector pigtails and 2 9006 female connector pigtails, that way you can just plug into the existing connectors rather than hacking everything up. Don't forget a little dielectric grease! And don't forget that there will be substantial adjustments to make a RHD patterned light work well on a LHD road system.
 
#9 ·
I second that :naughty:

Seriously tho man, yea, I wired it first that way, and I was stuck with high beams only, and so I reworked it like you see in my diagram

Do it to each light individually, It's actually a lot simpler and less wiring. Not sure but maybe the other one is for some 7th gen models with DRL's :dunno:
 
#19 ·
sure beats the stupid harness i bought from amazon. i paid $30 for it and i don't think it would work as good as the one you made.

still had to cut and wire in the H4 plugs.