Toyota Forum banner

'94 Camry - Broken powered radio antenna

17K views 30 replies 12 participants last post by  hill8570  
#1 ·
So here's the deal... my Aunt owns a '94 Camry, just recently the powered antenna on the back of the car was mortally wounded by some low hanging branches. Guess who she wants to fix it? Me. I don't have a lot of experience with Camrys, so I'll need the Camry owners help with this one. What do I need to replace the completely obliterated antenna and rod that pushes it up? Also, is it fairly straightforward to install (as in a plug or two and a few screws)? If not, what will I need to do?
 
#2 ·
This is a common problem and an easy fix.

Obtain a new antenna from an auto parts store, Toyota dealer, ebay, etc.

The antenna is pushed up and pulled down by a long plastic rod similar to a weed eater but thicker and having teeth on side of the rod. The antenna motor has a reel to reel to reel in/out the rod.

To unreel the antenna remove the nut at the base of the antenna. Press the AM or FM button while turning the ign key to ACC.

The rod should extend out as much as it can before going off the reel, once done pull it out with the antenna.

Leave the key in the ACC position. Install the rod of the new antenna with the teeth facing the rear of the car until it bottoms out (about 16 inches). Turn the ign key to Lock and the cable should wind up and antenna retract.

If you need to take out the antenna first go through all of the steps through where you would pull out the antenna then install the rod and turn key to Lock.

Reinstall the nut.
 
#3 ·
Toyomoho's got it covered.

One thing I can add. If you purchase a non-OEM antenna, compare the length of the plastic cord/rod of old Vs new. I purchased an antenna off of eBay that had a cord a good 6 to 8 inches longer than the original. The antenna mast wouldn't fully retract. Had me going for a while until I figured that out. If it's much longer, just snip off the extra with a wire cutter.
 
#5 ·
The powered antenna on my 96 Camry no longer goes all the way up or down. I took it out and bench tested it and it seems like the motor is really weak.

The casing where the cord is stored is full of black crud (old grease), so I pulled it apart to clean it it out. I also tried to pull the mast out like toyomoho described above. No way that thing is coming out! I broke the plastic cord in the process.

When I pull on the antenna, it seems like brass piece on the bottom of the bottom of the mast (red arrow) is getting stuck inside the housing . Is there a trick to pulling the mast out. You guys make it sound so simple.

Image

Image
 
#7 ·
After the install of the new antennae what is the best product to keep the mast properly lubed as it extneds and retracts ? I live near Boston.


So here's the deal... my Aunt owns a '94 Camry, just recently the powered antenna on the back of the car was mortally wounded by some low hanging branches. Guess who she wants to fix it? Me. I don't have a lot of experience with Camrys, so I'll need the Camry owners help with this one. What do I need to replace the completely obliterated antenna and rod that pushes it up? Also, is it fairly straightforward to install (as in a plug or two and a few screws)? If not, what will I need to do?
 
#8 · (Edited)
If I was the OP, I'd get a new mast/cable, remove the entire antenna from the car, open it up and examine everything for broken/bent parts, old grease, etc., clean it all up with spray degreaser, relube all the moving parts, insert the new mast and cable on the bench, and test for everything working properly before returning it to the car. Go here and you'll find a nice color wiring diagram so you can understand what pins to apply 12V to get it working out of the car http://www.turboninjas.com/camry/. You could also attach a ground wire and plug it in in the trunk, holding it in your hands to test.

For lubrication, I use spray electrical parts cleaner on the extended mast, then spray silicone for lubrication. I'd avoid anything that leaves residue, which attracts dirt and defeats the exercise, like WD40.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Guys - I already took the whole unit out and bench tested it with a 12VDC power supply. The antenna goes up and down only part way. OK - no big deal I thought. I will just take it all apart and clean it out , lube it up and re-assemble, yes? Big mistake!

I took it apart to clean it but my first big mistake was to remove the screws that hold the DC motor in place, in order to clean out the pinion area - never, never, never do that! When you remove the motor, the end of the armature shaft inevitably slips out of the bushing and then it is impossible to guide motor armature shaft back into the end bushing against the forces of the permanent magnents which pull the armature shaft to either one side or the other.

To top it off, the stupid plastic cable attached to the mast broke while I was trying to pull the mast out. Note that I am pulling it out the top, not out the bottom. The funny thing is that the antenna mast is loose inside the outer tube until I try to pull it out, then it somehow gets wedged inside the outer tube and I guarantee that no amount of pulling will get that sucker out.

I have resigned to re-installing the antenna with the motor disconnected or buying a universal power antenna unit from antennamastsrus.com and fitting it into the vehicle. The funny thing is I get perfect reception on the FM station that we always listen to with no antenna at all! Go figure...I guess the station is pretty strong. So, at present, there is not much incentive to fork out $50 for a whole new antenna unit.
 
#10 ·
Well my antenna is really weird, I think part of that plastic piece broke or something inside the motor area. It would go up like 7/8 of the way and then start make funny noises as if it were trying to push it up but ran out of that plastic rod so I could pull it up the rest of the way myself. When it came to coming down it wouldnt come down at all until I pushed the top part down a bit first then it seems the rod would catch on the motor and it would go all the way down. Any ideas? I took the outer nut off and the mast and plastic rod part came right out easily, is that a sign of something broken?
 
#12 · (Edited)
NEO doesn't really mean take the motor off - you will never get it back on! What he means to say is undo the nut to open the black plastic housing, then remove the plastic storage reel in order to try to fish out any broken drive cable. Take it real slow and if necessary take photos, so you know how everything goes back together and you should be OK. Whatever you do, don't undo the two screws securing the motor!
 
#19 ·
NEO doesn't really mean take the motor off - you will never get it back on! What he means to say is undo the nut to open the black plastic housing, then remove the plastic storage reel in order to try to fish out any broken drive cable. Take it real slow and if necessary take photos, so you know how everything goes back together and you should be OK. Whatever you do, don't undo the two screws securing the motor!
Hi,
I am about ready to fix our antenna on a Camry. But, I am very curious why you say you cannot put the motor back on if you remove it??

:confused:
 
#17 ·
Damn guys, I used the mastsRus antenna and it was a big pain in the ass to get in, and after clipping enough of the white cable to get it to work properly, I got it to go up and down once and after that it just goes up, and only a little bit down...any ideas? Its really annoying, I know some of the teeth are slipping on the cable, I think im just gonna go dealer.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Did you remove the antenna and disassemble it at the bench? I got a replacement mast off EBay. All you need to do is remove everything except the motor itself, clean each part with degreaser or whatever, lube with suitable grease (white lithium works well), and put it back together. As you take off each part, place everything on the bench in a line in the order of removal. That way, correct reassembly is much easier, or take a few pictures as you go. Pay attention to the washers for the main reel case on the post, and don't loose the tiny C-clip.

When it comes time to put the new mast in, feed the cord down the tube and into the toothed cog that pulls it up and down. Use a 12V source to let the motor pull it the rest of the way in after everything has been put back together.

IIRC, the wire colors on the antenna plug (not the car harness plug) for bench testing are as follows:
blue/yellow stripe, yellow, red/green stripe all connect to 12V+
white/black stripe to 12V-
Touching either black or red/white stripe to 12V+ will extend the mast, removing 12V+ will retract it.

If you do this at the bench, you'll be able to see why it didn't go up all the way if the problem is inside the antenna. If it works flawlessly off the car, but not after installation, then I'd say you have a wiring problem, either in the harness or at the radio trigger wire...the one that connects to the black or red/white stripe pin.

BTW, if the mast cord is in correctly, and there are no missing teeth, or broken parts, it can't 'slip' since the black idler will keep the cord teeth meshed tightly against the big toothed 'gear'.
 
#22 ·
mine broke too, it wouldn't go up or down, i bought an antenna universal it says from wal mart...my question is, reading the installation from the product, do i follow it and take out the motor and just slice the wires together??

the instructions says to slice and connect the white wire to the new antenna...does it have a white wire to connect??
 
#23 · (Edited)
In my DIY procedure below, I have listed the color of each of the wires on the 1996 Camry OEM harness, as well as what voltages are present on each wire with the radio turned off and with the radio turned on. This should help you determine how to connect to your Walmart antenna. Note that I left both of the OEM connectors intact and soldered the three leads from the new antenna to the old antenna harness. This way if someone ever wants to install an OEM antenna assembly into the car, it remains a simple plug and play.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282482

If you buy your replacement antenna from http://www.antennamastsrus.com/ for $35 + shipping, you can simply my DIY procedure step by step.
 
#24 ·
thanks dz, but by looking at your diy i see that the white wire is black and white, so would that be the wire that i should be splicing?? and leave the others?? i noticed u used three, if i only use one would that be ok?? seeing that the walmart antenna doesnt roll up or down, its just the black one sorta like the s2k one..
 
#26 · (Edited)
so it says

remove existing antenna from mounting hole

then there should be this cable from the old antenna, and cut the cable 2" from existing antenna

using razor make 1/2 " slice at the end of the cable. peel back ithe insulation to access the center conductor(this is usually in white in color)

then the rest is easy for me....its just those instruction that is bothering me cus that means i have to remove my motor right??

plus by looking at your diy i dont believe i see this cable that the instruction is talking about..unless u know
 
#27 · (Edited)
It sounds like your new antenna requires no power, so you don't have to mess with any of the power wires from the wiring harness that I described in my DIY procedure.

From what you are describing, it appears that all you have to do is connect the actual antenna co-axial cable. This is the cable which transfers the signal from the antenna to your radio. Coaxial simply means that the signal wire is surrounded by a braided ground wire to reduce interference (static noise) in the signal wire. The coaxial antenna cable is the black cable shown in the second photo of step 3 (with the red arrow pointing to it).

Your instructions are telling you to cut the black coaxial, strip back the jacket and braided shield wire to expose the center conductor (presumably with a white jacket) and connect this signal wire to the antenna. Make sure that you don't cut the coaxial connector off (red arrow) - instead cut the coaxial cable coming out of the base of the old antenna and strip it here. This way you will keep the coaxial connector in case you ever want to install a powered antenna in the future.

Good Luck.
 
#29 ·
do i need to remove the motor or anything dz or should i just take out the antenna like toyomoho stated and keep the motor in place??

and thanks bro..really needed that info...i kinda get it now..
My antenna mast was corroded (common problem with our winters here) and I couldn't pull it out for nothing. You can always try it see if you can get your mast out.
 
#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
I just read this in another forum, saying the reception sucks with the S2000 Antenna..

http://www.toyotatuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138

I am bummed out, as I am getting ready to order the parts in a few days.. :ugh3:

I need good reception

--
but now I read another forum and another person liked the reception
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=49281

===========

also the prices are still insanely high!

even with discounts, I find the price to be around $65.00 using several resources, eBay, and discounter auto parts stores online.. for the total price of al three parts..
for the S2000
========
 
#31 · (Edited)
I just read this in another forum, saying the reception sucks with the S2000 Antenna..

http://www.toyotatuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138

I am bummed out, as I am getting ready to order the parts in a few days.. :ugh3:

I need good reception
If you need killer reception (especially at AM frequencies), get a full length whip, not the little stubby S2000 antenna. Lot of full-length whips that fit the Celica antenna socket. Personally, I've never noticed much difference between my old Camry antenna and the S2000, but I only listen to FM.

Oh, and if you don't like the prices, then do a junkyard pull for the Celica sub-antenna and nut. Heck, you could probably get the Celica antenna itself at the same time.