Toyota Forum banner

94 camry no spark code 12

49K views 404 replies 9 participants last post by  aaronv94le  
#1 · (Edited)
I have a camry that died while driving 30mph, and never ran again. I checked the codes code 12 no signal to ecu from ne or g. So I put a rebuilt distributor. I still have the same problem code 12. I have to fix my car soon and i dont have money for an ecu. Can anybody please help me. I dont know how to check for an open circuit or short between my disrtibutor and ecu. any input is EXTREMELY APPRECIATED
 
#14 ·
new echo is right, you'll have to trace open or short circuit in G & Ne signals and the STA circuit. I can only give you my 95's circuit, the 94 may be slightly different so you should get a circuit diagram. On the ECU there is are three connectors, 26 pin, 16 pin, 22 pin. The wiring for G and Ne is on the 26 pin connector. G+/G- is #18yellow/17black, Ne+/Ne- is #4red/5blue. This is from the ECU side so you'll have to match up the wiring harness connectors. The STA circuit gets its signal from the starter. Its purpose is a richer start mixture. This circuit goes to the 22 pin connector #11black/white. I'm not sure if a bad STA circuit will give a no spark or not, but it is part of the Code 12. As for the ECU, if you need yours checked out or fixed here is a great company that will rebuild yours for about $160: http://avproecm.com/index.htm
 
#12 ·
The ECM is behind the glove box, if there is no signal there then you have to trace the wiring to figure where if there is an open.

No sure what is wrong with the speedo, poor connection or wiring maybe?

Beside replacing the distributor, what else have you done? Did you check all the ground connections to make sure that they are clean and tight? What is the general condition of the car? Got any picture?

N.E.O.
 
#18 ·
How did you test for signal at the ECM? Were you using a digital meter? Do you have a service manual that you can follow?

You have to understand that it will be difficult for us to help you if you don't understand what you are doing and not asking questions.

So give us something to go by, and what you have done and how you did the test!

We don't mind helping you out but you do have to help yourself first.

N.E.O.
 
This post has been deleted
#23 ·
Alright, but what exactly do I use the meter on?The wire it self,?
First thing I would do is a simple continuity test of the wiring from the ECM connector. G+ & G- and N+ & N- are just loops through the distributor to the ECM connections. Use the ohm meter function of the meter to see if there is an open connection along the wire. Put one lead to the G+ and the other to the G-, the same for N+ and N-. If there is a break in the wires then you will get no reading from the meter.
 
#21 · (Edited)
One more thing. I was looking under the dash on the drivers side, and I found an alarm system but the fuse is unplugged from one side of the wire.I did not know this was there.When I hook the fuse up the horn goes off and the lights flash.I dont think this has anything to do with it because it ran when I test drove it and for about 2 and a half weeks after I bought it. Could this alarm system that I didnt know about make it not recieve a signal from the distributor?
 
#27 ·
Have you check the G+ and G- readings at the distributor? Jump the two G terminals together at the connector from the distributor, then check it again at the ECM connector. There is no fusible link between the distributor and the ECM. You might also take a closer look at the connectors, sometimes wires do break where it goes into the connectors.

N.E.O.