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94 Corolla / no compression #1

10K views 21 replies 3 participants last post by  Bitter  
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 1994 Toyota Corrolla. It has a 4AFE 16valve engine. I just recieved the car as a gift and it has an issue. The number 1 cylinder registers 0 compression. The other 3 cylinders register 180-190. I put a little oil in each cylinder and retested. Still 0 compression on the # 1. I pulled the valve cover to check the alignment of the cam pulley with the bearing mark with #1 @ TDC. I then proceded to the crank pulley to check that with the cam in position the notch on the crank pulley would be aligned with -0- on the timing belt cover. I basically have a few inquiries. First, if the notch in the crank pulley was passed the -0- mark on the cover by say 1/8". Will that cause me to register 0 compression on #1 cylinder? Second, I manually pushed down each lifter to see if I could feel or hear the valves moving freely and reseating. Is that a stupid test? Third, could this be caused by a head gasket? I'm basically an intermediate mechanic. I only do this when I have to because we're poor folks with three kids any help/guidance in this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks J.B.:headbang:



Looking back at my original post: I really need to quit drinking. I've forgotten more than I can remember. oxyMORON
 
#3 ·
Gonna pull the head

When I pulled the plugs for the compression test the number one was sooty. Absolutely no damage to it though it was black like the tailpipe. I poured a decent amount of oil down the plug tube to see if the cylinder would hold it. I don't know if that is a standard test or a back yard one. I figure if it would hold oil than the rings are o.k. When I poured the oil in it went down and levelled off at the top of the plug hole. The odd thing is that a few hours later I decided to pour in some B-12 chemtool figuring it would sit on top of the oil for a while and the valve seats would be submerged. I figured I would then manually open and close the valves hoping to free any carbon that may be sticking one of them open. But when I poured in the chemtool it did just like the oil. It filled half the tube then went down the hole and levelled off with the plug hole again. I did it again and got the same result. Where could that fluid be going???? Then I figured it is either a crack in the head or a broken head gasket. I don't have any fluid in my oil or atleast I didn't in preliminary checks. I will return with the findings from the pain in me arse. Thanks for replying brother. J.B.:headbang:
 
#4 ·
Possibe new test reverse of leakdown?

As I looked in the cylinder this morning to see if the oil finally went down and it did. I decided to siphon off any that was left in the cylinders before starting head removal. I hooked up my shop vac to the plug tube #1 (with hose and vise-grip) and to my surprise apon looking in tube #2 I saw fluid movement!!!! I looked down the line and also saw movement in #4!! My compression test showed 180-190 between all cylinders save #1. Conclusion, I think it will either be a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder bore. I'm fairly certain the movement in #4 has to do with the valves opened because I had a peice of paper to the exhaust pipe and there was suction. In any case. Won't know the verdict till the head is pulled. Look forward to hearing any thoughts on this test and if you've ever heard of it Bitter.
Po-boy out.:thumbsup:
 
#6 ·
Yeah Bitter

I did a leak down test on all cylinders. lol used the hose from the compression tester. Boy was I excited! Had 0 air coming out. Then I figured that was impossible and remembered the valve in the end of the hose.lol I hooked up again to #1 @ TDC and had air coming out of #2 and the tailpipe. 0 from the radiator. I'm gonna put off taking out the head until I can get some parts. Unemployed at the moment so its not the best of times. Figure its a valve. Do you think the timing being off could cause the 0 pressure on #1??? Its off about 10 degrees. But when I look at the cam the valves are closed or appear to be, which makes me think its a valve or worse an internal crack in the head or cylinder wall. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Po-boy:headbang:
 
#9 ·
I did a leak down test on all cylinders. lol used the hose from the compression tester. Boy was I excited! Had 0 air coming out. Then I figured that was impossible and remembered the valve in the end of the hose.lol
I'll give you credit for realizing the valve was in the hose making it a one way. :thumbsup:

Get a tire valve core remover and you can take the valve out and do the work you set out to do. Leakdown testing is THE BEST easy test for getting REAL answers to internal mechanical problems. With the hose you cant measure the amount of leakage but you can find out if there is any and where it is. From what you have said, I think you have some badly bent intake vales and you filled up the intake manifold. Thats why you had transfer to the other cylinders.

Piston goes on TDC on the compression stroke and put in about 100 psi of air. You can use less since you're just listening for leakage. Bent valves will let the air out FAST and it may be hard to hear where its going but listen to the intake, exhaust and oil fill to check valve leakage or ring leakage. This should pinpoint your problem.

Later spend $39 at Harbor Freight for the tester. Its cheap but it works. Summit Racing has a better one but its twice the money. (still worth it!)

Its soooo much easier than guessing.

-SP
 
#10 ·
Bent Intake Valves.

I'm not there yet. I've removed most of what has to come out to remove the head. Right now I'm at the fuel rail and besides the cams thats all that is left. As for bent intake valves: Not sure about that,we'll no for certain in the next few hours. I'm kind of confused as to how you could bend any valve in a non-interference engine. Unless something was dropped in the cylinder or a chunk of cylinder wall broke off or you lost a timing belt while going 100mph. Maybe a burnt valve or a buildup of carbon on the seat (an extreme buildup.) I think I'm going to find a cracked cylinder wall or head. I know the head is uncommon but not knowing the full history of the car and given the symptoms I would guess its the head. I'll pray for the gasket. lol Yeah the valve in the hose was a good one, thats what needle nose pliers are for. Bitter, I'll be posting the findings tomorrow w/ pics if there is a way to do that here other than repeated posts with different avatars. Haven't examined the site enough to know yet/:welcome:
 
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#11 ·
??? Not sure I understand what you meant. Use PM if you want to help me unravel it.

SO few people use a leakdown test to find their problems, when it could be sooo easy. If everyone here understands the usefulness of it, then I'll just smile and never mention it again. :) The test is perfect for your type of situation.

-SP

I thank you for your input but I think we pretty much know what a leak down test is. It just urks me when people post something that really doesn't help just for the sake of posting. As for buying your tester. You can build one like I did if you have enough parts laying around the shop. 2 gauges, bleeder, some hose and fittings and your in business. Maybe I'm wrong but thats why I asked for professional Toyota help. Don't get me wrong. I :clap:your help, just make it worth posting. Thanks, Po-Boy
 
#12 ·
Problem found

After tearing it all down the problem is a hole in the exhaust valve. Lot of Carbon build up on that cylinder. Gonna replace the valves and throw her back together. Not sure how the hole came to be but well , who knows. Thanks to everyone involved for the advice. Bitter, Speedy, thanks guys. Po-Boy.
 
#14 ·
RE: Speedy pics

I'll most certainly post the pics. What all would you like? Of course I photographed everything. I think we all do that with everything that can be forgotten. Lemme know what you'd like pics of and I'll postem brother. Thanks for the help and please ignore the reply I made the other night while I was (inebriated.) I hate it when I make an arse out of myself. :headbang:
 
#21 ·
yeah, I wish I had the dinero to do the job properly. This may sound stupid to some but the head gasket it 100.00. I'm thinking, since it is stainless steel, recoating the (rubber) and reinstalling. If I had the loot I would replace all of the valves, guides, etc. I'd have it reseated and install all new gaskets. Just can't do it. Really sucks at this point for everyone that is used to doing things the right way. I imagine that the at some point another valve will give. Hopefully by then I'll have the dinero. I didn't find the piece that came off. It wasn't in the cylinder. No sign of it at all. This repair (depending on my trip to the pawnbroker) will include: New valves and their underwear. New head gasket, throttle gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, timing belt, tensioner, valve cover gasket, water pump , air filter, plugs, oil , oil filter, radiator flush and fill. May as well do the trans flush and filter while I'm in it. Oh yeah, recharge the A/C as well. The lines are aluminum and were in the way so I had to pump and disconnect. For a grand total of about 400+ ********.