My cousins 95 Camry would not start the other day. Someone sprayed starting fluid around the intake and it started and then died. It warmed up later that day and worked find. two days later same thing. It won't start and it is cold.
Realmaplesyrup
Clearing the code won't fix the issue it was reporting. From your information it certainly looks like the oxygen sensor needs replacing.
Note that after clearing a code it might not come back immediately (some require specific drive cycles to initiate next system check).
Note that after clearing a code it might not come back immediately (some require specific drive cycles to initiate next system check).
Yes I am aware that by clearing the code does not fix anything I was just curious to see if it will come back on because I have had cases in Camrys where the code never came back on for another 6 months or a year. Either way the oxygen sensor would not cause the car to not start. Everything that I've read so far is pointing to the throttle body air control sensor. So I'm going to try that first.
Unless it has an intake leak, it would be impossible for the starting fluid to get inside the engine.
If she had tried to start the engine before the fluid was sprayed, it could be that the engine had started because more fuel was injected into the engine, rather the starting fluid had any affect on that.
If the starting of the engine was affected by the outside temp., most common cause would be insufficient fuel during cold start.
No saying the O2 sensor causing the starting issue; checking for codes just to verify if there maybe pending code stored.
Like I said, you can check the sensor data to see if any of them is off, like and ECT sensor reading warmer than outside temp.
If the issue is temperature related, would look at items that are related!
Just saying!
If she had tried to start the engine before the fluid was sprayed, it could be that the engine had started because more fuel was injected into the engine, rather the starting fluid had any affect on that.
If the starting of the engine was affected by the outside temp., most common cause would be insufficient fuel during cold start.
No saying the O2 sensor causing the starting issue; checking for codes just to verify if there maybe pending code stored.
Like I said, you can check the sensor data to see if any of them is off, like and ECT sensor reading warmer than outside temp.
If the issue is temperature related, would look at items that are related!
Just saying!
So I duplicated the issue. I got home and tried to start the car and it started up and died immediately just like when my cousin said starter fluid was sprayed into it. So I guess that was a coincidence. I started cleaning the throttle body and spraying throttle body/carb cleaner in there and wiped it out best I could. I also took of the iac to clean that but it didn't look like there was much to clean. I put it back together and the car started right up and the idle started getting hire and hire. Then it died (I did not press the pedal at all during this process) Now it won't start again. So I am going to do it one more time. I think it was just burning off the carb cleaner that was in there. I am thinking I will have to take the whole throttle body off to clean it properly though. Maybe the aic sensor is going bad. In which case I will just go to a salvage yard to get another one. So I guess ill still have to take off a fuel line and see if fuel comes out.
Have you check the Intake Air Temp, Engine Coolant Temp? If those are off, you won't get the proper amount of fuel during cold start. When it is cold you would need more fuel than when it is warm.
If it is IAC related, it will still happen when the temp is warm out. Furthermore,if it is IAC related, you can hold the throttle open slight and it should start!
The other area to check, spark at the plugs when it is acting up! Check the dist. pickup coils resistance to make sure that they are within spec., same for the ignition coil!
Also the IAC is mounted at the bottom of the throttle body, you can remove it to clean the passages, or you can spray directly into the passage when the engine is running to clean it!
If it is IAC related, it will still happen when the temp is warm out. Furthermore,if it is IAC related, you can hold the throttle open slight and it should start!
The other area to check, spark at the plugs when it is acting up! Check the dist. pickup coils resistance to make sure that they are within spec., same for the ignition coil!
Also the IAC is mounted at the bottom of the throttle body, you can remove it to clean the passages, or you can spray directly into the passage when the engine is running to clean it!
The pump only runs when the ecu receive crank signal that the engine is turning.
See if this help:
www.toyotanation.com
See if this help:
95 Camry LE V6 no power to fuel pump
95 Camry LE V6, 1MZ-FE V6 engine. No power to fuel pump. EFI relay and open circuit relay all work fine and have power to the terminals (including B+ terminal), all fuses fine. Hard to believe it's the hard wire problems. Any insights and suggestions highly appreciated.
www.toyotanation.com
What colors do you have?
A couple other sensors to check:
www.toyotanation.com
A couple other sensors to check:
95 Camry V6 LE Not Starting
Car not starting, even with starting fluid. Good sparks. Found a broken wire off the Camshaft position sensor and welded it back (cut the connector off to weld, and found a ground wire but not sure whether it was connected to either of the two terminal wires, tried three combinations of...
www.toyotanation.com
Note that Toyota changed from a "make it start immediately when you turn the key" to a "let it crank once or twice before it starts" philosophy in the '90s. The earlier philosophy was adopted when carburetors ruled the earth and emissions requirements were making it hard to get engines started. The later (and current) philosophy was adopted when it was realized that fuel injection systems don't need the help AND that a few cranks before firing helps bring up oil pressure, greatly extending the life of the engine.
So, a Gen3 V6 won't send voltage to the fuel pump until after there is evidence the engine is actually turning (on the 3VZ-V6 the intake air would open the air flow sensing vane, which would then turn on the fuel pump, on the 1MZ-V6 the crank position sensor would do the same, not sure exactly sure when it changed on the 4 cylinders but you get the point).
Norm
So, a Gen3 V6 won't send voltage to the fuel pump until after there is evidence the engine is actually turning (on the 3VZ-V6 the intake air would open the air flow sensing vane, which would then turn on the fuel pump, on the 1MZ-V6 the crank position sensor would do the same, not sure exactly sure when it changed on the 4 cylinders but you get the point).
Norm
So now my fuel gauge is not reading correctly. It started VERY slowly rising from half. Went up to the 3/4 and stopped. The tank is completely fuel. Will it work itself out once the tank is empty or do I did to open it back up and push it al ln the way to empty until the gauge reads empty and then slowly let it rise?
So when I went to go get a lost screw at Ace Hardware, I decided to fill it up with gas...and then it went to the top. It took 6 gallons of gas. It was on fuel before I changed the pump. There is no way I lost that much gas taking off the fuel filter and changing the pump. I guess it was on the verge before the fuel gauged switch ohms on the float when I did use that little bit of fuel. Sometimes I can go 100 miles before my needle goes off fuel.
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