Look at your local craigslist for engines. $1300 for 100 K miles is insane. I just sold a 5SFE for $300 with 160K. Granted it needed bearing but that's not a hard job.

Anyway. Get rid of your third idea. It would be fun at the beginning, but then it would just get painstaking. And really expensive.

Rebuilding the engine COULD be a viable option, depending on how badly you damaged it..

Replacing the 5SFE is a very easy job. As long as you're keeping your transmission, you shouldn't run into trouble. All that you have to do, really, is:
Remove the hood
Remove the axles
Remove airbox
Remove battery
Unbolt the mounts
Pull the wiring harness
Take out radiator
Unhook header and downpipe
Unhook various hoses
Remove the power steering pump
Pull A/C to the side

...
That's it really. Then just pull it out.
Some people like to drop the sub-frame, but I thought taking it from the top sounded a lot easier. I don't know why you would want to drop it... Sounds like more work.

You could probably sell your old engine for a few hundred bucks. Someone will be willing to put the work into it for a low enough price!

 

advice from someone who had this same problem 3 times...
if you do end up getting a used one have the rod bearings redone and do a compression test before you buy it

i bought one for 800 bucks with a 30 day warranted on day 28 a rod shot through the oil pan i got another one for free free install everything a month later the oil light came on and it started knocking

but at the least replace the rod bearings

 

This is exactly what I'm worried about. I live in Iowa, and as hard as this may be to believe, this isn't really the land of 5SFE abundance. Advice about not wasting my time with a short block is very helpful. I will continue searching for cheap engines ($800 even sounds high to me with more than 100k). At least I know with my car I changed oil in a very timely manner, had my timing belt replaced when specified, and I've never had a head problem. I think I'm much more for the idea of trying to rebuild what I have, as I know that my engine was treated properly.

Do you guys have a trusted supplier for new pistons, rods, and bearings?

Thanks.

Pulling the engine through the hood is definitely the way I would go, transmission and all. I've learned my lesson on FWD transverse engines. Pull it all, save all kinds of time.

You guys have any tricks on pulling the passenger side axle? If I remember correctly, I had a heck of a time pulling it on like an 01 solara - it has a bracket/extender bolted to the engine that I could never get the axle out of. Ended up ruining the whole deal and buying a new one - bracket and all - from a junk yard.

 

I have a question. When you take out an engine, do I need to take out a transmission too as a single unit?

My manual says so, but my friend said that I don't need to....

One more question ....... when you take out a transmission that has a problem. can I just take out the transmission with out take out the engine?

thank you

 

No way a junkyard engine costs $1300. $300 is expensive. I'd go with a "remanufactured" engine if all else is a keeper. Machine shop isn't going to save you much over that and you're not likely to get 3-year/100K miles warranty.

If you want to pull the transmission, some like to pull both the engine and trans from top, instead of dropping the subframe.

If you want to pull the engine, separate it and pull it from top. Careful the torque converter doesn't fall out. Make sure it sits cozy in the bell housing.

Before you spend to machine the parts, check prices on rockauto with Marshall Engines or call Jasper engines. 3-year, 100K miles warranty on their engines, as with all good remans. Rockauto shows Marshall $2242+350 core (you pay $2500 then get the core $350 back if it's still in machinable shape, if it's badly damaged, then you're out $350). And also check out the cost of all gaskets and bearings and decide for yourself.

Let them answer your questions. The call is free:

http://www.marshallengines.com/
Sales: 1-888-236-9610

http://www.jasperengines.com/about-us.php
(800) 827-7455

 

It's easier to take the transmission and engine out at the same time when removing the engine. On the automatic there's a mount, a few wires and a shift cable. On the manual, there's a mount and 2 shift cables.

If you need to service the transmission, you can remove it by itself. You'll need to remove it from below by dropping the subframe.

The automatic is extremely heavy. The manual, if you're strong enough, can be picked up by itself.

Either way, I would recommend an engine hoist to do the work for you.

 

i pull the engine only without pulling the trans, i have found thats the easy way for me to do it.That way you don't have to mess with your trans,,just pull the pass. wheel and remove the front pulley and the engine mount bracket by the timing belt and put a block under the trans and the engine comes right up out of there,,hope that helps

 

The passenger axle should slide right out. There is a snap ring and a bolt on the bracket that needs to be removed.

After that, it should come right out. If not, pry it out gently but forcefully.

 

If you do rebuild the engine, the machine shop may have a recommended parts supplier they do business with. Sometimes they can purchase a kit that has all the rebuild part required and sell it to you at a reasonable price.

Not all axles are hard to pull out. The trick appears to be a large hammer and pry bar.

 

erikj17 sent me the file and I am sharing it (with his consent):

http://docs.google.com/present/view?id=0AQFSNTriTBmjZGQ5YjRxNGdfMTRjcm5uN3Jkdg&hl=en

(I wanted to upload it to my site, but found google documents much more convenient)

 

Congrats you got done 15 times faster than me lol. I have a question for you though how did you torque the harmonic balancer on?

 

I put the flywheel on and stuck a pipe through the holes in it and cranked the engine over until the pipe, through one of the large flywheel holes, rested between that and the block. I'm sure someone is going to say it was a terrible idea, but it worked great for me

 

Help with engine swap

Followed this thread. Swapping engines in my 1999 camry LE 5S-FE 4cl. I got this car from my mom after my little sister had done a number to it. Engine was "locked up" and it has sat for 3+years. I got an engine that was in a running with 130K on it to swap.

Further exam of the old engine showed #3 spark plug eng melted and fused to cylinder.

Pulling engine and was only going to pull the engine, not the tranny. Got everything ready, went to pull the engine with the tranny supported and forgot that the torque converter had to be disconnected.

PROBLEM STATEMENT - can't seperate the flywheel from the torque converter cause I cannot rotate the engine to get access to the bolts that hold it to the flywheel. So, trying now to get them back together so I can pull the engine and tranny together and I CANNOT get them to go back. Any advice? They are about a 1/2" apart and have tried clamping, pulling together with top bolts etc. Did I pull the torque converter too much to get them back, doesn' t seem like it?

Thinking if I cannot get them back to put a chain around the tranny and pull it as it . . . any help is greatly appreciated on how to get these back together . . .last 1/2" is a bummer.

 

Throw another chain around the tranny. I would think you should be able to put all the bell housing bolts in with no problem but who knows......

Pulling this engine with the trans still in isnt impossible but frustrating.

 

The reason the tranny and bell housing wont bolt back together is the torque convertor has 2 tabs that slide into the drive shaft of the transmission. Your best bet is to drop the oil pan and remove the balancer shaft assembly to unlock the broken rod "if you have one" I did not read enough of your post..Hope that helps.

 

Congratulations on rebuilding your engine, I was hoping that you would go with that option. Junkyard engines are a real gamble, and you never know the quality of the work that went into a rebuilt short or long block from some supplier. Doing the overhaul yourself is the only way you can know what you are getting for your money.....