The idle speed sound correct for a cold engine. This is known as "fast idle"; a function to get the engine warm up quicker and into a closed loop for emission reason. Not sure about why it's working harder. A problem with the IACV usually cause a lower idle speed.

 

That sounds normal for idle speeds to me. 1000 rpm when in gear right after starting? That's normal As for the "working harder", do you mean it won't shift out of second until pretty late? I'm pretty sure that's normal open loop behavior

I'll continue down the road of inquiry nevertheless What is the remaining maintenance schedule of the car?

 

Thanks...the details of closed/open loop function are too complicated for me, so I don't know how that plays into it, but I suppose I could have a bad sensor or something that is messing up the transition between the two.

As to your questions - when I say "working harder" I simply mean that it sounds like the engine is at a higher RPM than usual, as if I am giving it gas, but after having checked it the RPMs are normal, and of course I'm not giving it any gas. This is all before I even put it in gear. I have had this car 13 years, so I know the difference in sound when I hear it.

Not sure what you mean by "remaining maintenance schedule", but if you mean what maintenance it currently requires, it is pretty up to date. As I said, the timing belt (and spark plugs) was replaced about 30K ago, just had the transmission flushed 8 months ago, coolant changed just 3 months ago, changed oil about 1500 miles back. It still has the old water pump though, and I've been thinking of having the fuel system cleaned.

My parents have the same car, and they just had to repair a hole in the exhaust pipe, so I was wondering if I had the same problem, but it seems to me that the issue is with the engine itself, not just the exhaust. I'm inclined to believe there is an electronic system error telling the engine something wrong, but of course what would I know.

My engine light is always on, but I've had the diagnostic run on it a million times, including recently, and it always comes back as an emissions sensor issue which I've always been told does not affect the operation of the engine.

Thanks for the help! Interested to hear what you think.

 

Definitely get the check engine light checked out, and I would get your exhaust looked at. If your RPM's are staying stable, but the noise is up that's what I'd look to. Does it feel as if you've lost power or the engine is bogging down?

 

Haven't lost any noticeable power, drives pretty well considering its age.

 

Have you checked the vacuum throttle stop (looks a bit like a bellows over by where the throttle cables connect to the throttle on the side of the throttle body? When you remove the vacuum line, idle should just up to the 1500+ range; when you connect the vacuum line, the stop should pull in and drop the idle to the 700-ish range (when warmed up).

 

Hi, I'm not sure what you mean, what am I checking and what does it tell me? My RPM numbers are normal, it just sounds like the car is at a higher RPM than it is.

 

Yuko is right, the p0466 has nothing to do with the idle speed.

You'll have to mess with the charcoal canister to correct this problem.

It sounds to me like your timing is slightly retarded or advanced. I would get the motor tdc and confirm the belt is lined up correctly

 

Yuko is right, the p0466 has nothing to do with the idle speed.

You'll have to mess with the charcoal canister to correct this problem.

It sounds to me like your timing is slightly retarded or advanced. I would get the motor tdc and confirm the belt is lined up correctly

 

One thing I'm still unclear about it this: Does idle speed go to ~700 rpm when it eventually warms up? Does the problem disappear at warm idle?

 

Now that I think about it , I think that a faulty vsv can affect the idle as well. I would check into replacing that vsv on the evaporator canister first and see I the idle fixes itself.

 

I had this same problem on a 2000 camry years ago. I replaced the VSV for the charcoal canister and that solved the problem. The VSV is by the gas tank. I had to cut the screw that was holding the vsv on. The vsv at the time cost $50 at the dealer.

 

Hi all, thanks for the responses. So I've paid some more attention to the RPMs, and they are normal. Cold start idles around 1600, warm idle about 700.

Went to AutoZone today, turns out I now have code PO135 as well as PO446. PO135 is for one of the 02 sensors. Not sure if that is related.

Minizcule1, which exact problem did you have? Did your engine suddenly sound louder on cold starts and when accelerating? That's the real issue I want to fix, the sensors I guess I need to replace but I'm not concerned with them damaging anything. Can anyone tell me what this VSV is and why it would make the engine sound different on a cold start and when accelerating?

Really appreciate the feedback guys.

 

the initial cold start fast idle is good. also initially in gear it will idle higher than normal until temperature of coolant goes above 140F or so. normal operating temperature when car is hot is around (coolant) 90C/194F

once there the idle should be:
gen4 97-01 camry (and similar) idle should be 700+/-50rpm in neutral gear with all accessories off and cooling fans off at time of taking the reading..

for gen3 92-96 that would be 750+/-50 (Neutral, all accessories off, cooling fans off at time of reading the speed).

If your car keep idling at 1k RPM while in gear even when it is hot, then it may indicate a vacuum leak.

 

And that, ironically, was my 41st post.

 

Also the Haynes manual takes care to distinguish between air/fuel sensors and oxygen sensors. How do I know which one I am replacing?

 

It'll have air/fuel sensors if your Camry is CA emissions compliant. Otherwise it'll take O2 sensors. Look under the hood for a sticker that says what it has for emissions equipment.

BTW, when you're looking at those Denso replacements the ones that say "OE style" come with the connector. The ones that say "Universal" are the same sensors without the connector; you just have to cut/resolder your old sensor's connector to them... they're a bit cheaper if you're up for the soldering job and the old connectors are in good shape.

 

And then there are 3 of these sensors, how do I know which one I am replacing? Looking online and in the Haynes manual I am still unsure of where "bank 1 sensor 1" is located. I know there is one right on the exhaust manifold when I open the hood, that would be convenient, but there are also two others under the vehicle that are hard to get to. Anyone know?

 

Bank1 sensor1 is not the one right up front. That's bank2 sensor1. The one you need to replace is in the rear bank's exhaust manifold. The third one would be bank1 sensor2. It's downstream of the catalytic converter.

 

So, the noise was indeed from a flex pipe tear, and with any luck that was also the cause of the sensor throwing the code. Welding it at the moment, gonna clear ECU and see if the code comes back.

 

good luck

 

So, if anyone is still following this thread...

Had the flex pipe replaced, decent price of $175 from discount exhaust place I had good references for.

Also got a new gas cap.

Went a few miles and the PO135 came back. Went quite a few more and now the PO446 is back as well.

Damn.

Questions are...

1.) Could the ECU take a while to "recalibrate" after having had the hole in flexpipe? That is, might I just reset the codes again and hope the ECU stops throwing the PO135, or is it more likely like the whole hole in the pipe actually broke that oxygen sensor?

2.) The gas cap I got was a cheapo from Autozone...should I get an OEM cap and see if the PO446 goes away, or is any cap as good as another, meaning I've got to start worrying about the VSV and charcoal canister.

Really, I think I want to buy a pre-ECU car.

 

here also is an old thread that might be interesting

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149362&highlight=

 

P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)


hmmm, if sensor has been replaced recently with a new Denso with a plug and it worked fine until shop touched the flex pipe then I'd check wiring for it, it could be damaged...

wondering if the muffler shop hasn't screwed it up when welding the flex pipe in ... check for any burns on wiring insulation for it.

P0046 could be still pointing to a vacuum leak (e.g. gas cap still no good) or as mentioned above, it could mean that something else is wrong (e.g. the VSV by EVAP canister). you will need to troubleshoot this one from under car with a multimeter and a 9V battery. there were posts about it on TN.

 

The sensor still hasn't been replaced, I was just hoping the sensor wasn't bad in the first place, and that the new flex pipe would stop the code from coming up.

I guess I'll check the VSV with a multimeter before I think about getting yet another gas cap. The new one I got seems to fit alright, and I can hear the vacuum seal suction when I unscrew it.

 

then it would be the highest time to replace the o2/afr sensor now.