The receiver drier should be replaced but the condenser should be fine.
The drier is attached to the condenser and a new descant bag can be installed.

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COOLER PIPING. 2010 Toyota Matrix | Toyota

2010 Toyota Matrix HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COOLER PIPING

parts.toyota.com

More Information for DENSO 4711607

Or a Kit, Same warranty as an OEM in most cases, check p/n's and read the fine print no matter who you get parts from.

More Information for UAC KT4673A

 

Thank you for all the info!

 

Why not find a different shop that will install a part you supply? Definitely get the system flushed and change that descant bag like sd speed and your mechanic suggested. You need to do this any time a compressor seizes.

 

Why are you disappointed it broke? You said it’s a 201 Matrix, after 1,820 years you have to expect things to break even on a Toyota. 😂😂

 

Lol. In the past Totota parts would go at least 1,950 yrs, 1,820 is just suprising. Quality control issues about 400 yrs ago I suspect.

 

Check other shops and get additional quotes. Maybe you'll get a better deal.

If you can DIY, sure, there are other members who have done this. Have the shop vacuum the system and then do the final recharge. An aftermarket compressor is $207 on rockauto. If you prefer the nice Denso (OEM), it's $332. Why bother with reman?

New compressors:

2010 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L L4 A/C Compressor | Shop Now at RockAuto

Heat & Air Conditioning Parts and More for Your 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Compressor kits (with dessicant, o-rings and condenser). The UAC kit w/ condenser is $291, w/o is $244. Given Denso condenser is $65, you can get the UAC kit without condenser then add a Denso, for example. You can do all kinds of combinations.

2010 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L L4 A/C Compressor & Component Kit | Shop Now at RockAuto

Heat & Air Conditioning Parts and More for Your 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Yes, the shop is right, change out the condenser and dessicant and as many o-rings as you can get your hands on. For warranty, compressor makers want you to change the expansion valve too. Some members don't bother, but it's your call.

Here's are two member threads on AC work - condensers, yours similar:

2004 Camry Radiator 5spd Manual

2004 Camry Radiator & Condenser 5spd Manual Quick Question...I hope I'm looking to replace my radiator in my 2004 SE I4 M/T when I do my AC Condenser since the AC condenser has leak. Radiator is still OK, but it seems to be leaking on the top part where the plastic meets the aluminum core...

www.toyotanation.com

1999 ES300 "Barn Find #2" - Fixer Upper

Hey guys, so a while back I started a thread to chronicle my resurrection of a beat-to-hell 1995 Camry 5S-FE. While I'm getting the last bits together to close that one out (parts list, final work), I thought I'd start another thread for my latest clunker acquisition :smile: My buddy needs a...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Check other shops and get additional quotes. Maybe you'll get a better deal.

If you can DIY, sure, there are other members who have done this. Have the shop vacuum the system and then do the final recharge. An aftermarket compressor is $207 on rockauto. If you prefer the nice Denso (OEM), it's $332. Why bother with reman?

New compressors:

2010 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L L4 A/C Compressor | Shop Now at RockAuto

Heat & Air Conditioning Parts and More for Your 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Compressor kits (with dessicant, o-rings and condenser). The UAC kit w/ condenser is $291, w/o is $244. Given Denso condenser is $65, you can get the UAC kit without condenser then add a Denso, for example. You can do all kinds of combinations.

2010 TOYOTA COROLLA 1.8L L4 A/C Compressor & Component Kit | Shop Now at RockAuto

Heat & Air Conditioning Parts and More for Your 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

Yes, the shop is right, change out the condenser and dessicant and as many o-rings as you can get your hands on. For warranty, compressor makers want you to change the expansion valve too. Some members don't bother, but it's your call.

Here's are two member threads on AC work - condensers, yours similar:

2004 Camry Radiator 5spd Manual

2004 Camry Radiator & Condenser 5spd Manual Quick Question...I hope I'm looking to replace my radiator in my 2004 SE I4 M/T when I do my AC Condenser since the AC condenser has leak. Radiator is still OK, but it seems to be leaking on the top part where the plastic meets the aluminum core...

www.toyotanation.com

1999 ES300 "Barn Find #2" - Fixer Upper

Hey guys, so a while back I started a thread to chronicle my resurrection of a beat-to-hell 1995 Camry 5S-FE. While I'm getting the last bits together to close that one out (parts list, final work), I thought I'd start another thread for my latest clunker acquisition :smile: My buddy needs a...

www.toyotanation.com

Thanks for all that info! May check other garage. Not too many around here that are that competent or get any good reviews. Trust this garage but wont install a part I bring. May just have them purge sysyem, I will install parts since it looks fairly accessible, habe them refill.

 

Most shops will not install the parts you buy for a large reason. They don't know where you got it and can't warranty the work. Only the labor can they warranty. But that's just part of the equation.

Wherever the shop buys from, the warranty is for them and can deal with it. Same thing if you bought a part and it failed prematurely. The part store will give you a replacement and labor is free.

 

Most shops will not install the parts you buy for a large reason. They don't know where you got it and can't warranty the work. Only the labor can they warranty. But that's just part of the equation.

Wherever the shop buys from, the warranty is for them and can deal with it. Same thing if you bought a part and it failed prematurely. The part store will give you a replacement and labor is free.

Generally makes sense. But Toyota dealer once did it for us with wheel hub when they realized it was OEM compressors in the OEM packaging. Also got OEM struts from Honda Parts Online for Pilot and the dealer put them on. So with thise two experiences it just suprised me.

 

If you trust the shop and the others might be questionable, then see what ways you can work with them. If you can swing a wrench, then maybe have the do the vacuum and final refill (you saw what some members do in those links). Or just pay the tab and let them worry about everything.

 

Update on this. Got the OEM compressor and desiccant bag for the drier ($500 for both). Toyota said they would purge system, install compressor, recharge - for a fairly reasonable $670. Parts guy there agreed condenser should be ok. but also warned that is why Toyota usually replaces everything, so it doesn't bite them in the butt later trying to replace just one component in a system hit by what they called the "black death". Will keep you posted.

Does the desiccant bag also serve as a filter of sorts - keeping any debris from getting to condenser?

 

The bag holds the desiccant in place. There might have been a plastic screen as well. Generally there's minimal filtering, especially with the newer bag setup.

But the tech should be able to tell if there were significant debris when those were changed.

 

The bag holds the desiccant in place. There might have been a plastic screen as well. Generally there's minimal filtering, especially with the newer bag setup.

But the tech should be able to tell if there were significant debris when those were changed.

Thanks for the info. If I swap just the desiccant by itself, I still need to have the system purged first right? Opening the desiccant chamber is no different than opening refrigerant lines or any other part of the AC system isn't it - opens a closed system letting bad stuff into atmosphere?

 

My sons 2010 Matrix AC compressor locked up and blew AC clutch cover off and killed the AC. At 109k miles kindo of disappointed being a Toyota and all. Local repair shop I have used in past and trust wants $650 for a reman compressor. I guess thats all the local parts shops sell, kind of like brake calipers. I go to several Toyota OEM parts shops online I have used before (Olath Toyota, Toyota Parts online, McGregor Toyota, LeGrange) who all have brand new OEM compressors for around $430. Told local shop this and they said no way can you get a brand new OEM one for cheaper than reman. Dont think he was trying to sell me, just really didnt believe it pr know about online parts warehouses. Are online OEM parts sellers just not well known, or should I be suspicious of the new OEM compressor for $430? I've purchased other Toyota OEM parts from them in the past and they were legit.

Second ary question. Shop wont install customer supplied parts as they have had too many headaches with wrong part or customer wanting warranty repairs for a crap part supplied. They will however purge current system freon, let me install compressor, then refill system. They also recommended changing condenser also and the if you change condensor you dont really need to worry about any debris blown into system when compressor froze up and imploded. Thoughts?

Anyone replaced the compressor bedore? Looks fairly accessible from underneath.

Many thanks for all input.

Don't spend the extra money on a condensor yet. When you remove the a/c lines from the compressor, you need to backflush the high pressure discharge line. There are a/c flushing solvents available. The skinnier line leaving the compressor is the discharge line. Follow the line until you get to a place where you can disconnect it. You want to push the flush into the line where you disconnected it and back toward the compressor. This will remove any debris that might have gotten into the line. Do that and your condensor should be fine.

 

Thanks. Toyota is putting the OEM condenser we bought it and refilling system. I assume they would check for debris and find ways to charge me more.

 

Update/question: Close to putting this to bed finally. Local shop purged system. Doesnt that take a while to do it right? Seems like it was done pretty fast, and it only cost $27. Even the other local shops were ~ $100 (Toyota $175, they said because it takes time). Are there levels of evacuation (ie doing it right vs not)? Dont want to do all this and be foiled by a poorly done initial evac/purge..

Im going to put on the condenser with drier tomorrow. Then Toyota is going to install compressor and recharge for $675, I assume that job would involve installing compressor, adding proper PAG, then pulling the freon and PAG thru entire system. Several videos I have seen on installing the compressor show putting an ounce or so of PAG in condenser before installing. In my case, since dealer is doing compressor PAG later, that 1.2 ounces I dumped in might result in too much being added. Should I skip adding PAG to condenser install, and just remind Toyota its PAG bone dry?

Thanks a ton for any and all info!

 

If the shop has a professional machine it would be just as fast at the dealership. Have you asked the shop that charged you $27 to purge how much they would charge for installing the compressor and then vacuum and recharge? I'd think much lower than $675 especially if you already paid for the compressor. Or did I misunderstood in that $675 includes the compressor? I almost want to call it highway robbery.

I think the dealer will only spend 15 minutes to make sure the vacuum level held while charging. I don't think they'd spend more than that (or if even that) in a busy shop trying to clock in labor hours.

The shop doesn't need to check for leaks when purging if the system will be opened later (see p.17 of the manual below), but when recharging, the machine should go through the default 15 minutes vacuum test.

Where the PAG goes it's either-or. Just make sure it's communicated to the tech.

https://www.robinair.com/sites/default/files/documents/573104%2520REV%2520C%2520EN_1.pdf

 

Thanks for the reply John D. YEs, asked the local shop with the $27 evac fee to do the job. They wanted $650 for a remanufactured compressor and $180 for condenser from the local auto parts store. My son, being smart and not having much money, had purchased a brand new OEM Denso compressor McGregor Toyota online for $440 and new OEM condenser for $100. But he learned a valuable lesson when they said they wont install customer parts, OEM brand new or not. I kind of agree with my son, why buy a remanufactured one for more when you could get a new OEM for less. So that's how we ended up here. I did talk the local Toyota dealer to install their own OEM compressor we purchased and recharge system, I installed condenser today.

Thanks for the info. Put 1.2 ounces in condenser, and will let Toyota know that.

 

Ok. Update time ;^) Again, thanks for all the guidance. Cant imagine doing all this stuff blind before the days of YouTube videos and newsgroups. .

Condenser can be installed fairly easily without removing radiator. Couple issue specific to me, not likely issue for others:

1. Note to self for next time, I had all the bolts ordered as I took them out but my son knocked box over now Im trying to figure out which went where. Online parts fiche not that helpful.
2. This matrix my son bought must have been from the rust belt up in north east. Lots of rusted bolts. One snapped right off on lower brace that hold hood latch assembly. Not sure how Im going to handle that, other than drill it out and add a bolt and nut. Item one in picture below. Open to suggestions.
3. Both hood bumper stops stripped out and rusted in place. Got one out, second still soaking in penetrating oil. Coning off one way or the other. Item 2 in image below.
4. 2 bolts for the refrigerant line a little corroded and a little tough to get out, so replacing.

Other than my bad luck issues, condenser pops right out after removing the cross member beam, latch, and horn.

Additional question/notes.

1. I bought the exact condenser part number. It came brand new with only two oddities: Looked spray painted black at factory (original just silver metal). Came very well wrapped in bubble wrap marked Kia, though I bought it from Le Grange Toyota whom I have purchased from before. And had a few bent fins. How many is too many?. See images below.

2. Original condenser had some residual fluid drip out. It was green like antifreeze. Is that what's expected?

Once I get my few replacement bolts I can easily have it buttoned back up in 5 minutes (less that pesky broken bolt on bottom of hood latch brace arm).

So for future inquiries, yes, do it, easy.

 

You could use a small screwdriver to straighten the fins, but overall it isn't going to affect it. It would be different if it had a big bend.

 

A few small bends I wouldn't worry about. But I'm puzzled about the Kia wrapper. Rockauto shows that condenser only used on Toyota products. Weird!

Was the box sealed? Some warehouses do open them to stuff padding materials and sometimes bend more fins. LOL

Green antifreeze like oil was because someone put UV dye in the system. Otherwise PAG46 would be clear or very light yellow similar to some cooking oils.

You know, if you managed to install the condenser and hooked everything back up, I'd think you can do the compressor as well? No?

 

Unless, it's been used and returned? Anything is possible.

 

Anyone know what the torque specs are for the high low lines that connect to the condenser? I tested tightening on the old one and at just past snug + 1/4 turn it started spinning free, stripped. Thats some soft metal at a fitting that is supposed to be a potential leak zone.