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Adding aftermarket advanced head unit/streo to Highlander hYbrid 1st generation

51K views 47 replies 27 participants last post by  Machwulf  
#1 ·
HI - first time caller here. I'm thinking of buying a 2006 Highlander Hybrid from a family member. Car is in great shape, checks all the boxes on my list, except the center console is not very useful when it comes to driving in 2017. the navigation screen is hard to use, there is no bluetooth, and i don't have much use for a cassette or CD player. i'd love to upgrade, ideally to something that runs android auto (so i can use google maps to navigate and listen to google music).

i have no idea where to start for this, but am assuming i can't just pull out the nav and stereo and pop in an aftermarket - the touchscreen controls the A/C and other things about the car.

Any thoughts/ideas? aftermarket solutions? take to toyota dealer?

thanks-
david
 

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#2 ·
You simply add Knivo BT adapter connected to Aux. Then you stream music and, if you wish so, listen to guidance voice. Also, it's your hands free phone right there.
As far as you have large smart phone, simply set it on dash somewhere as GPS screen. My Note 4 is actually about same size as display you can squeeze in, so why bother and lose many features?
Not asked for, but Waze is much better app than G maps. Just saying.
If you just die to have fancy stuff ( I had 2 Knivos, they work so well), look at GROM BT adapters as they also come with USB ports and i-phone connectors. GROM also makes steering wheel adapters. Grand total will be around $300 for all plus install time.
That's me. Folks really prefer to shnazzy head unit that costs arm and leg and drops many features of the OEM one, so sure, your car, your call.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I bought my 2006 in April. I for sure wanted the cassette player out from day one. In addition to that, the Navigation was belly up and I wasn't seeing anything that suggested that it could be repaired. Some updated tech was a must for me.

I was able to install an Android without sacrificing the main multi-purpose display at all.

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It wasn't entirely easy. Apparently the energy monitor was designed to need the cassette player to function correctly. I don't know what the logic was there. But with some experimentation I figured out that the sole purpose of the 12 pin connector (with only two pins used) is to signal the multipurpose display that the cassette/stereo unit is installed. All the cassette/stereo unit does is apply a 70ohm resistance. I didn't happen to have a 70ohm resistor laying around, so I randomly tried this 680ohm resistor from my scraps bin.

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UPDATE: The connection of this resistor just jabbed into the connector this way turned out to be unreliable over time. I recently cut off the connector and just soldered the resistor directly inline with the green/orange wires.

There is also the matter of the steering wheel controls.

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From left to right, that is SW2, SW1, SWG.

For my Android head unit, there was no need for a steering wheel controls adapter box. I just connected these three lines to the corresponding connections for my head unit as labeled.

Later, I swapped out my Android head unit for an Alpine head unit (with Apple CarPlay / Android Auto). The Alpine head unit needed the Metra Axxess ASWC-1 to adapt the three steering wheel control lines to the remote input of the Apline head unit.

For the rest of the connections, the Metra 70-8113 adapter harness did the trick.
 
#4 ·
I bought my 2006 in April. I for sure wanted the cassette player out from day one. In addition to that, the Navigation was belly up and I wasn't seeing anything that suggested that it could be repaired. Some updated tech was a must for me.

I was able to install an Android without sacrificing the main multi-purpose display at all.

Image


Image
Hey! I've Just bought a 2006 Highlander and am in the same boat. What I can't find is the wood grain inserts you have on either side of your new radio. Where did you get those? I can't use the woodgrain paneling I have currently cuz it's irregularly shaped with the volume knobs and all sticking out. Every kit I find is just flat black plastic and it's driving me insane!
 
#7 ·
I bought my 2006 in April. I for sure wanted the cassette player out from day one. In addition to that, the Navigation was belly up and I wasn't seeing anything that suggested that it could be repaired. Some updated tech was a must for me.

I was able to install an Android without sacrificing the main multi-purpose display at all.

Image


Image


It wasn't entirely easy. Apparently the energy monitor was designed to need the cassette player to function correctly. I don't know what the logic was there. But with some experimentation I figured out that the sole purpose of the 12 pin connector (with only two pins used) is to signal the multipurpose display that the cassette/stereo unit is installed. All the cassette/stereo unit does is apply a 70ohm resistance. I didn't happen to have a 70ohm resistor laying around, so I tried a random one from my scraps bin ...

Image


There is also the matter of the steering wheel controls.

Image


From left to right, that is SW2, SW1, SWG. There's no need to buy a fancy black box. You just need to connect those three lines to your new head unit as labeled. (I just happened to have a Toyota 20 pin connector that works for this in my junk bin.)

For the rest of the connections, the Metra 70-8113 adapter harness did the trick.

I'm planning to add a rear-view camera next ...
 
#25 ·
I bought my 2006 in April. I for sure wanted the cassette player out from day one. In addition to that, the Navigation was belly up and I wasn't seeing anything that suggested that it could be repaired. Some updated tech was a must for me.

I was able to install an Android without sacrificing the main multi-purpose display at all.

Image


Image


It wasn't entirely easy. Apparently the energy monitor was designed to need the cassette player to function correctly. I don't know what the logic was there. But with some experimentation I figured out that the sole purpose of the 12 pin connector (with only two pins used) is to signal the multipurpose display that the cassette/stereo unit is installed. All the cassette/stereo unit does is apply a 70ohm resistance. I didn't happen to have a 70ohm resistor laying around, so I tried a random one from my scraps bin ...

Image


There is also the matter of the steering wheel controls.

Image


From left to right, that is SW2, SW1, SWG. There's no need to buy a fancy black box. You just need to connect those three lines to your new head unit as labeled. (I just happened to have a Toyota 20 pin connector that works for this in my junk bin.)

For the rest of the connections, the Metra 70-8113 adapter harness did the trick.

I'm planning to add a rear-view camera next ...
Thank you for sharing this! I am currently trying to install a new stereo in my ‘06 Hybrid Highlander with Nav. The harness that came with my new stereo only has “key-1”, there is no “key-2”. How can I make the steering wheel controls work with this system? Also, did you have to access the factory amp at any point in your install?
 
#8 ·
Great job! Congratulations are in order, I did the same and went through the same trials and errors--Toyota does not make it easy! You'll find installing the backup camera to be a piece of cake in comparison! I installed one from Sonic Electronics, it installed easily and works well. I would warn you though that the back-up "lines" on my camera are not accurate and I sure as heck would not depend on them! I guess higher-end (i.e., more expensive) units give an accurate distance picture. Good luck!
 
#13 ·
Glad to see that this thread is still active. I can’t find any useful info on this project. I plan to swap out all the speakers with coaxial speaker and wiring directly to a new head unit. I’m just going to bypass the factory amp and ignore the original wiring. Any tips on keeping navigation and climate control working on the factory screen? And if someone could send me a link to a wiring diagram that describes the factory wire colors it would be helpful.
 
#14 ·
My project is now nearly complete. Apologies for the glare on the screen it's sunny today.
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Everything is functional. The only thing I need to do is clean up the wood grain trim. It's only roughed in and held in place with painters tape atm hah.

Dylan Doxey was invaluable. The advice about sticking a resistor in the 2wire 20 pin connector worked perfectly. I stuck a 68om resistor in mine and secured it in with electrical tape.

I cut the audio wires where they came into the cabin from the doors. I used a 2wire audio wire to figure out which wires were the speaker wires going into the 20pin connectors where the wires in the door and the wires in the cabin connect. One right by the Ebrake pedal, one by the passenger's right food and one in the bottom of both b pillars. I wired the audio cable to one of the outputs on my stereo, powered it and pushed the two wires into the 20pin connector where I thought the speakers were till I got proof positive that I had the correct two. I then cut the two at a convenient place to strip and wire a 2wire audio cable in. I ran the cable from the console to the connector and left myself plenty of wire at the console in case I need to pull the unit out and service it at a later date.

To get the trim panels off the wall around the driver and passenger feet (like next to the E brake) you have to first pull up the trim that you step over to get in the car (runs along the bottom of the door). You don't have to fully take it off but the bit that curves up toward the dash has a pin that helps hold the other trim on.

I got a wiring diagram from my local audio installation store but it was mostly useless. At best it only identified one of the audio wires in each door. Here's what I was given:
Radio 12V blue/black +
radio ground brown -
radio ignition gray +
radio illumination green +
factory amp turn-on viloet +
power antenna orange +
left front speaker (+/-) pink - violet or black-yellow (In reality mine was blue-yellow)
right front speaker (+/-) green - blue or white - yellow (don't remember what mine was.)
left rear speaker (+/-) black - yellow or red - yellow (Mine was neither, however both wires had short silver stripes at regular intervals.)
right rear speaker (+/-) red - white or green - yellow (Mine was neither, however both wires had short silver stripes at regular intervals.)

For the front speakers, there are two speakers, the tweeters and the larger speakers. Both run off the same 2 input wires at the 20pin connector.
 
#15 ·
Hi guys. First off, thank you for sharing your install procedures. I tried going to Best Buy to upgrade my 2006 highlander hybrid limited from the factory radio and was told that it’s practically impossible , but Now that I’ve read some of your success stories, I’m planning on attempting to install a Sony XAV-AX1000 as my HU. https://www.sony.com/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax1000. I’m hoping to use the factory JBL AMP. The Metra 70-8113 radio harness is designed for use with the factory amp so I don’t understand why most of you opted to bypass the factory amp. I’m new to installing car stereos and was hoping to keep this as simple and easy as possible but if anyone here foresees me having issues with the factory amp and this Sony HU. Can you please enlighten me in laymen’s terms... And maybe recommend other options. Also wondering why nobody has used the Metra 99-8260b dash kit designed for the highlander with Navi. Other than not matching the premium wood trim finish. I will repost with my experience good or bad. Thanks in advance
 
#16 ·
I tried going to Best Buy to upgrade my 2006 highlander hybrid limited with Jbl system and navigation from the factory radio and was told that it’s practically impossible, Crutchfield also doesn’t support it. However, I’ve read sbout some success stories and have seen videos on YouTube demonstrating the system in use with full functionality, I’m Im considering a self install of a Sony XAV-AX1000 as my HU. https://www.sony.com/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/xav-ax1000. Has anyone here had any experience with upgrading the stereo? Or can anyone explain why it’s not supposed to work ? thank you
 
#19 ·
Hi Hovair,

I bypassed the factory amp because the output on the stereo would not play otherwise. I tried using the coaxal output from my head unit into the Metra 70-8113 harness. I got nada. I went to my local professional car audio store and the guy told me that he has his installers bypass the factory amp. He told me that to do it they have a harness that they plug in at the amp. To get to the amp, he was vague, but said I might have to pull the back seat out to get to it.

I had the option of splicing wires at the base of the A and B pillars or to try to figure out where the factory amp was. I don't have a factory manual and I can't find anything online for exactly where the factory amp was. For my monkey brain it was a lot easier to identify the speaker wires at the harness points at the base of the pillars and splice them in. Afterall that's basically what I did 15 years ago in my old 1978 GMC.

So for me I really didn't feel like I had a choice as I'm no expert and option A, the coax cables was a no go. I even tried wiring the coax cables out put to my shop stereo which worked shrug. Something, something witchcraft and angry pixies.
 
#17 ·
Forum search is your best friend

 
#31 ·
Trying to install a new double din stereo system but I'm having trouble finding the correct wiring harness for a 2006 highlander hybrid limited without navigation and with JBL stock system. The common ones from Wal-Mart and O'Reilly's that are supposed to work have completely different connectors. The only other one I've been able to track down was suggested by Crutchfield, but it has these RCA looking plugs. I've been trying to figure out what I need, apparently there's a hidden amplifier somewhere. Things are getting a bit complicated. If anyone has been through this could you let me know what wiring harness I need and weither or not I need to mess with the amplifier.
 
#32 ·
 
#34 ·
I'd trust crutchfield. those RCA looking plugs are exactly what they look like. this harness will allow you to keep the stock amplifier in the system, and most aftermarket radios have RCA outputs too. just make sure the one you choose has seperate front and rear RCA outputs. My 01 sequoia has a JBL system too, and rather than rip it out I kept the JBL amplifier when installing the radio, but same with you, the wiring harness is different than the non JBL system.
 
#35 ·
I just bought a 2007 Toyota highlander hybrid limited and could like to change the present radio to meet present day reality. Can someone recommend someone capable of doing it. I live in Reading PA and I went to best buy but the technician told me that because of the hybrid system, he was not sure of doing it...any help I will appreciate it.
 
#36 ·
Late follow up... Looking at installing a Sony XAV-AX5500 unit in 2007 Highland Hybrid with JBL and navigation. I've read the trick to fake the presence of the cassette deck to allow the navigation portion continue to work. But have two questions:
1) The Sony unit has pre-amp RCA jacks that should interface with the Metra 70-8113 wiring harness, and since they are pre-amp output am I correct to assume they won't blow out the JBL amp?
2) The Sony unit comes with a steering wheel harness, and the unit allows the steering buttons to be programmed in the radio settings (matching the steering wheel button to the proper feature). So in theory the unit wouldn't require the Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Harness (cable comes with Sony unit) and Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter (radio does the mapping). Sound right?
 
#38 ·
I received my Sony AX5500 was able to successfully install it in 2007 Highlander Hybrid Limited. I used the resistor trick to retain the factory navigation display for consumption, maps, etc. Used Metra 70-8113 wiring harness to retain the JBL amp system. I purchased the 70-8114 steering wheel harness, mostly for the socket, and rewired it to match the steering wheel switch wiring as previously noted.
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The Sony receiver does support remapping the buttons, so I did not need the Axxess ASWC-1 adapter. Finally, used Metra 99-8260B to mount the Sony receiver and factory navigation unit. Very happy with the results!
 
#37 ·
Just out of curiosity, is it possible to swap the entire dash unit from my 2004 highlander with navigation to one of the non-navigation units and then replace the radio in the lower double din slot? I’m hoping to retain an OEM appearance for the climate controls and add a head unit with apple CarPlay and a backup camera, all without having 2 screens like the other examples I’ve seen here.
 
#41 ·
For what it’s worth, I had my unit replaced with a Kenwood unit, bluetooth for phone, XM, and here in VA the guys at the local shop, called audio express, never mentioned any challenges at all with the hybrid. As a heads up, it cost me an extra $100 to get the steering wheel controls hooked up to the new system. Wish I had done it even sooner than I did.
I recommend checking with a shop that concentrates on car stereo, best buy guys may not be real professionals when it comes to car stereo.
 
#46 ·
Adding to this old thread as the solution I found has been awesome. It's a unit that just plugs into your stereo's harness. There is no other installation, your current Nav display becomes a touchscreen android/car play interface... It's awesome. And, you can switch back and forth with the usual display whenever you want. The carplay/android audio still works when switching between the original display and the carplay. You can install any separate back up camera as well if you wanted as well.
Anyone remotely handy can install it. I've had it for 4 years. And the company has great customer service.

I always recommend it as I haven't seen anything remotely this simple and convenient.
If anyone finds this thread feel free to reach out and I can answer questions about installation or how it works.