moly lube goes on the ears and can go on the backing shims, do not put it on the slides as it's not rubber friendly. Silglyde will gum up since it's blended with castor oil that thickens it into a yellow wad after a while. Use Silicone brake slide lube on slides.

 

"Syl-Glyde is a silicone based brake lubricant" recommended for all parts of brake assemblies according to their website. Why do you try to trash them with bullbleep about Castor oil? Where's YOUR info from?

 

If they're riveted on then obviously don't take them off, but I believe that Akebono shims are just snapped on like OEM Toyota are snapped on as shown in the video. That 26080 (also a Permatex product) grease in the brush bottle is a petroleum based grease, not something I would use on rubber brake system parts. Moly grease supplied with the brake pads is also a petroleum base grease, coincidentally enough Fuchs Lubricants that makes that packet shown in the Toyota video is right around the corner from the shop.

Both the First Ayd and Permatex greases I linked are silicone greases with no petroleum or castor oil and are rubber parts safe.

 

O'Reilly's has the Permatex, so I'll pick some up. And take the Sil-Glyde back, I guess.

 

I know you got answers, but the brake DIYs cover some of these questions:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...on-2002-2006-2007-2011/668921-diy-2007-2011-gen-6-6-5-front-brake-job-pics.html

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...33-diy-2002-2011-gen-5-6-camry-rear-disc-brake-job-e-brake-adjustment-pics.html

 

I have read them thoroughly and it's great information.

It's just the conflicting opinions, not only the slide pin lube type, but the big issue about how to push the caliper pistons back in. From 'just use a C-clamp' to 'you'll ruin the ABS if you don't crack open the bleeder screws and re-bleed'. To add to my confusion was a reference that 'you can't effectively bleed a system conventionally if it has ABS'. [insert table-flipping gif here].

 

Open the bleeder, push the piston back with a C clamp. That way you push the worst fluid out of the caliper and bleed fresher fluid down into it. Fluid is pretty stagnant in the system, not much moves back and forth when applying the brakes. It's a good idea to totally bleed the system once every 3 years or every brake job depending which happens more often to keep fresh non acidic non water bearing fluid in there. Any spilt fluid can be cleaned up with simple tap water, it's water soluble.

 

Open the bleeder, push the piston back with a C clamp.

"And with my third hand..."

Not to be snarky, but I don't see how air doesn't draw thru the threads when there are brief periods where the pressure in the caliper via the clamp drops back to atmospheric.

 

That's why you bleed the brakes when you're done. Or as you wind the clamp you close the bleeder, but you still need to bleed the brakes when you're done. I don't have 3 hands and I can do it.

 

They will all work, but again, will excel in specific environments. When I use red it's in places standard grease will leak out due to throwing a trailer in and out of water. Works great but when I'm lazy or run out of green I'll also use it on cars and other vehicle brakes.

 

Red is the best choice, being silicone based it'll stand up to any water incursion better should the boot fail to keep water out of the slide area, it'll also stand up to water washing away grease from the pad ears to bracket interface and the shim system.

 

So you use the Permatex everywhere on the caliper? I was thinking just on the slide pins and the moly lube on the pad ears and between the pads and shims.

Also, I suppose I could temporarily re-mount the caliper to allow me to operate the bleeder with one hand and the caliper clamp with the other, to open the bleeder only when turning the clamp knob.

I've opted for the two-day access to the FSM thru techinfo.toyota.com to see how both this and the intermediate shaft removal is done, but naturally, i can't seem to log into to see, let alone download.

 

Yes, pop the caliper on without the rotor and then use the C-clamp is an option, you can also do it with the caliper rotor on and it'll just cycle the pads back to the 'full pad' position while pushing the pads and slide pins through their range of movement.

Yea that red grease can go anywhere on the pads or caliper, will probably stick around better than the moly grease too.

 

Huh. All three 'colors' all say the same thing: 'For metal-to metal contact only', which instantly makes the rubber seal on the bottom slide pin leap to mind...

 

That is odd, maybe they mean it's not for lubricating like internal parts when rebuilding calipers and wheel cylinders? You could email Permatex.

Oh you know what, they probably mean it's not meant to be put on the pad part of the brake pad.

 

That is odd, maybe they mean it's not for lubricating like internal parts when rebuilding calipers and wheel cylinders? You could email Permatex.

Done. Will report back if I get a response.

 

Thank you for contacting us and our apologies for the confusion. With the changes in rubber components used on brake systems today there have been some cases where some brake lubricants have caused swelling of rubber components. We recommend our Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Lubricant (80653) as it uses a silicone base and will not affect rubber components.

 

Yep, the red is what you want for anything rubber. Silicone is rubber safe.

 

For the pins, use any silicone product like Napa Syl-glide, superlube, or 3M silicone paste that might be locally available. Anywhere else that does not contact rubber, you any high temp caliper grease.

 

I don't care for Sylglide as previously mentioned, it's mostly Castor oil not silicone, it is rubber safe but I see it dried out and very stiff when used as a slide lube, I've had stuck pins because of it.

 

Saw the message above. The product info is confusing because the site mentions "For metal-to-metal application only" but does not mention that its safe for rubber. I might get some of this before doing my brake inspection.

 

Can Anti-seize be used on the brake backing pad instead of grease as shown in the video.
Thanks

 

Nah, antiseize is a blend of heavy oil and metal powder, the heavy oil will be driven away by water and heat over time just leaving the metal powder that won't do anything for noise abatement. The grease reduces noise by 'connecting' the pad to the caliper so that any vibrations are out of the realm of our hearing. Some cars have special weights called mass dampers on brake caliper bolts to also reduce unwanted noises and vibrations (they also can be found on some engine mounts and some exhaust parts of vehicles as well).

 

Most use too much grease on the slide pins and ears, and is why they have problems. It takes very little to work. And, you need to make sure that everything is squeaky clean prior to applying new lube.

Castor oil is a great lube. But, you can't just use what is in the supermarket. A Castor based grease/oil would use a degummed and refined castor oil. I've never has problems with Napa/AGS SilGlyde. Silicone+Castor seem like an excellent synergistic combo.

Grease on the back of pads is also to let the padiston contact area to not bind, as the pad can move a little up/down/forward/backward.

https://www.napaonline.com/p/BK_7651351
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brake-Caliper-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000M8IF1Q/

Jars of Permatex Synth-Green or Ceramic-Blue work well too.

Remember to not slather grease all over the place. I doubt that I use more than a couple drops for an entire front brake job.

 

So just a film over the entire slide pin with maybe a few streaks of thicker build-up?

I wasn't intending to put anything on the back of the shims or the actual caliper pistons.

I Kroiled-down all the bolt heads and bleeders during today's oil change. My gosh, those bleed screws look tiny.

I don't know where I got the notion, but I've always been of the mind that brake cleaner (I have conventional Brakleen) on any exposed rubber component was very destructive to them. But not according to every YouTube brake job I've been watching.

 

I disagree with that, in the salty north if you put them in dry they'll rust and seize in place much much faster. I apply silicone grease in a light coat behind the clips on the bracket to combat rust (since painting the brackets after de-scaling isn't practical due to time), then silicone or moly grease to the pad ears where they contact the hardware. Doing it this way I rarely see any come backs for noise or jammed pads due to rust where as the other guy who wasn't doing that and assembling dry had about double the come backs for noise within a month and jammed pads within a year after winter. Now that he's applying grease like I do his come backs have dropped as well. I'm sure what Toyota does with fresh new cars works great on fresh new rust free cars but factory processes don't always work in the field.

 

Black hubcaps with black tires, too much black. paint them body color for some throw back styling!

 

If I could find really minimalist trim rings and center caps, I'd go very throw back.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-99-TOYOT...PN-42638-02060-OEM-/192025733444?hash=item2cb5a02944:g:8P0AAOSwcUBYJ11E&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Coro...r-Cap-Black-/390265983686?hash=item5addaa52c6:m:mKnxm7Hz1Nw-Qh5MEunfBPQ&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/94959697989...For-Steel-Wheels-4-/252809144986?hash=item3adc996a9a:g:RN0AAOSw241YbbLB&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...Xtoyota+steel+wheel+center+cap.TRS0&_nkw=toyota+steel+wheel+center+cap&_sacat=0
Though you're probably 5 lug...

Trim rings are dime a dozen on ebay, ok not a dime but they're not hard to find.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...R1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xchrome+wheel+trim+ring.TRS1&_nkw=chrome+wheel+trim+ring&_sacat=0

 

I don't care what YOU say AGS says, on the new tube I have it clearly says the product doesn't cause rubber issues and is recommended for brake use. Since they don't suggest not to use it on brake parts because it will turn "yellow" I'll keep using it on my FOUR Camrys.

 

That's fine. My opinion is that I don't like it for brakes cause I've had issues with it. I never said it wasn't safe for rubber, I said I've had it gum up in slides and cause problems. I think it's a heat thing that causes the glycols and castor oil (the primary ingredients) to break down and loose their lubricating qualities in this instance. There's better products for brake work than SilGlyde, but if it's what you like to use go right ahead.

 

BTW I'm talking about Syl-Glyde BK 4, not any other product made by them. The company clearly states it's for brake parts including slides and it does not harm rubber. What are you talking about...their general purpose grease?

 

I don't have the product in front of me but I'm talking about the product I linked the MSDS to earlier in the thread.