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Anyone replace Evap/Charcoal Canister on 2003 or newer Toyota Camry?

6.9K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  cj1  
#1 ·
I need to replace mine. It is under the car tucked up by the fuel tank. I was wondering if the quick connects are GM like and require no tools to remove. I have service kit with all the various AC/Fuel and other tools for disconnecting various connectors just never needed to use them except on AC lines.

In fact on Toyota's I have never needed to replace a Evap Canister. In fact until recently I never needed to replace an evap. solenoid. So just wondering if anyone has any sage advice on this! Anything to look out for etc???

I bought a new unit from Toyota it is in the mail as I type this.
 
#2 ·
I just replaced my charcoal canister recently on my 03 I4 Camry -- here is a good thread:

Vacuum lines have squeeze clamps and are pretty straightforward. The large right angle connector is a challenge -- I resorted to right-angle picks to push the plastic retainer over the preformed lip. After replacing with a new OEM canister, all my PO441 and PO446 errors went away instantly and Evap system status turned complete after a short time -- struggled with this for over a year.
 
#3 ·
I just replaced my charcoal canister recently on my 03 I4 Camry -- here is a good thread:

Vacuum lines have squeeze clamps and are pretty straightforward. The large right angle connector is a challenge -- I resorted to right-angle picks to push the plastic retainer over the preformed lip. After replacing with a new OEM canister, all my PO441 and PO446 errors went away instantly and Evap system status turned complete after a short time -- struggled with this for over a year.
Thanks!
 
#5 ·
I just decided to replace the entire thing. It has been great for just under 20 years. To easy to replace it and be done with it.

I already ordered the entire canister. It was only $215 + tax and $12 or $15 shipping. The evap valve on the air box was $75 after market so the entire genuine Toyota evap canister for $215 is a steal!

For the past 3 years I have had no codes but starting issues that mimicked old school vapor lock. I only just got a code the other day. I replaced the valve on the air box just on a hunch. For a few weeks I thought the problem was fixed and then it came back and I got a code for the first time. So far the only side effect has been difficulty starting when cold after sitting for a long time like over night. So if you crank it and stop and re-crank it fires right up. If you try to just keep cranking on the first crank it takes longer than is typical for any modern car.

I left it alone because I hate tracking down evap. issues. The thing is if it get's bad enough you can have serious drivability issues by a malfunctioning evap. system depending on how it fails. Like I said this has been on going for 3 years. It only just threw a code after 3 years of this. I had considered deleting it as well and just living with the check engine light since I do not have to deal with emission testing in my state.

It runs and drives so good though other than this I figured I would repair it properly!