I disconnected the return hose and attached a longer hose towards the bottom of the engine (removed right front tire), placed the hose in an empty gallon and ran about 4 quarts of synthetic ATF . I used to do the "turkey baster method" it's good and saves some time, but I didn't see where it removed all the fluid. You must use enough fluid through the entire rack/pinon, pump and hoses to clear the old fluid. I performed this service at 60,000 because of the color of the fluid and where I live. If you decide regular ATF, just use sufficient fluid to flush your entire system:thumbsup:

 

Next time you do this, please take some pictures so I can follow.

thanks

 

Only use the recomended fluid. Other fluids are not compatable with the seal materials and could cause leaks down the road. Different fluids also lubricate differently and each system is designed for a certain type fluid.

 

My '04 baseline 4 cyl Tacoma and wifes '06 Avalon both indicate ATF in the owners manual.

I find that interesting as both came from the factory with power steering fluid; not ATF - the later looks like cranberry juice.

There was no mistaking the content in either PS reservoir.

My mother-in-laws '07 Camry 4 cyl - same as my 2 cars - has power steering fluid in it; not ATF.

 

I find that interesting as both came from the factory with power steering fluid; not ATF - the later looks like cranberry juice.

The factory fill is UNDYED Dexron ATF.

 

you definitely do NOT want to use actual power steering fluid. you want to use ATF. you replaced it with ATF and whatever small amount of ps fluid that is still in there will probably be ok.

 

I've never seen UNDYED DEXRON on any auto parts shelf. It may exist - but not widely.

The plain jane power steering fluid works just fine in all my Toyotas.

Has been in my oldest(2004) for 8 yrs - no issues.

Use what you like.

 

I've never seen UNDYED DEXRON on any auto parts shelf. It may exist - but not widely.The plain jane power steering fluid works just fine in all my Toyotas.

You have a cultural problem as do many other Americans. "Power steering fluid" is NOT Dexron auto trans fluid. "Power steering fluid" is a fluid meant for American cars.

Toyota instructs owners worldwide to use Dexron ATF, but many Americans refuse to listen:

1) The cap on the Power steering fluid reservoir usually says "Use Dexron ATF"

2) The owners manual and factory repair manual say use "Dexron II or III ATF" in the power steering system. Toyota has specified Dexron throughout it's history - from the very first Toyota with power steering around 1970 (Toyota Crown) to the 2011 Camry.

 

My dodge uses ATF for the power steering too, pretty common on American cars these days too.

 

yeah i'm not sure any car these days uses actual power steering fluid. my subaru and toyota both use ATF, and with more cars moving to EPS, power steering fluid may become a thing of the past.

 

Only vehicles that I'm aware that use specific type of P/S fluid are Hondas/Acuras. I DID use ATF and PS fluid once...and ONLY one time because the seals began to leak. All the posting about ATF on Toyotas are accurate. Now...for those that FEEL that synthetic is the "incorrect" fluid or "may cause leaks" are incorrect. I've done this on numerous cars (unless specified i.e. Hondas, ect) and never suffered any leaks from R/P units. You DO NOT have to go as far as I do, but as I believe in auto maintenance and "prepare for the worst, hope for the best" and because like ATF fluid, heat is a contributing factor to oil breakdown Nonetheless, flushing, regardless of the fluid you choose is a great preventive practice on every P/S unit

 

Grandpapa: Sorry I didn't post photographs, but this is what I did. I placed some old rags under the P/S reservoir, removed the radiator overflow tank (just slip it out gently and completely remove it). You can move the suction hose (the bigger hose) and then remove the return hose (about 3/8 transmission-type hose) I removed my P/S tank, dumped the oil, sprayed a little brake cleaner in there, but didn't let it sit because it doens't interact will with the plastic on these reservoirs. I then sprayed some diluted purple cleaner (50/50) and let it sit for about 1/2 hour. I then boiled some water and let the reservoir sit in a bucket. In the meantime, I removed the return hose, install a slightly longer one, ran that into an empty gallon sitting in the engine compartment. I attached a metal funnel with those small metal screens at the bottom and then proceeded to run about 3 quarts of Dexron III/IV until the oil came out clean. I used an air hose to blow out the reservoir there are 2 screens at the bottom of the reservoirs (suction and return). I used slightly less pressure as to not blow out the screens. There was black gunk in there, sludge like material (74000 on the car). Once it was dry, I reintalled the hoses, clamps and refilled the reservoir with about 1/2 quart, then added some more after moving the steering wheel to work out the bubbles. Now...this is a much longer process, but this assures me, that I flush out of the crap out of the system, the reservoir and I run clean fluid through the system. It will take you more time. Total price I spent was under 25.00 for the oil. I replaced the return hose clamps with fuel injection clamps and the hose, replace once by the dealer in late '07, was seeping. I got a Dayco ATF 300 psi hose and installed better clamps. Much more better now. If you were here, I'd help you do this because there dealer does the machine suction and bada bing bada boom and 90.00 or so later, the job isn't done the right way. So I took it a few steps further, but I know that I've done it right! Best of luck! BTW, you may want to remove that front right engine mount about three or four bolts, it's much easier and when reinstalling it, use anti-seize since they are being attached to aluminum.