I would first look into the CV axle. I have had one go bad without the boot tearing. Unlikely but possible.

Differential bearing is possible but even more unlikely. Change the fluid and look for glitter (metal particles.)

 

yep, cv's can go bad without tearing. sounds like your drivers side is shot. replace the whole axle, they're not that expensive.
tony

 

I see. Thanks for the replies.

I will have the differential fluid drained and replaced to check for metal in it. It haven't been done for years anyway, so probably about time.

As for the axel, let's say i order this one: http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=665038&p=rock

Is there anything else i would need to buy at the same time, or that is recommended to replace at the same time? Any bearings or seals or so?

 

assuming that's the correct part number, that should do it. you might want to check your brake discs and pads while you're there and maybe buy an assortment of cotter pins although some people reuse the old bent ones that come out of the axle nut and the steering arm castle nut. you might want to go to harbor freight and pick up a ball joint separator or a pickle fork. i dont use the fork for this though cause you can ruin the rubber grease retainer of the ball joint if you're not super careful.
and did i mention that axle nut takes about 200 ft pds to remove? google how some people do it because I've seen some use some creative ways to remove it with breaker bars wedged against the concrete floor, etc., but i use an electric impact gun.
let us know how you come out.
tony

 

No need for a ball joint separator. It just unbolts from the lower control arm. It can stay attached to the knuckle. There is enough room to get the axle out with just the ball joint unbolted, on a Gen 3 anyway.

Like the above poster said, that axle nut can be a bugger. Borrow the correct size axle socket (30mm?) and a 1/2 breaker bar with a long pipe to slide over it. Crack it loose with the car on the ground and in park. You have to have a really good impact to break most of them loose.

Lube the splines and the area where the seal rides on the inner end of the axle.

 

yeah, wasn't talking about separating the ball joint. the separator is to pop the steering tie rod ball joint off once you remove the castle nut.
if you don't pop this one, you have to remove the strut, which isn't all that hard but might change the alignment some so i don't remove it.
tony

 

I have done it without removing the tie rod. I did try to remove it, but it broke the taper loose and was just spinning. I didn't have a new one so I had to snake the axle out with the just the ball joint loose. Had to cut the tie rod off later and install a new one, which cost me the part and an alignment. The suspension on a gen 4 might be a little different, however.

 

roger that, popping it will break the taper lose - that's what you're breaking. when you put it back, drawing down the castle nut pulls the taper back into the seat when it gets close to being tight. then you just crank it down a few more degrees, put a cotter pin through it and voila.
tony

 

Just a quick question.. Is it possible that this got damaged when i replaced my AT mount by jacking up the engine/transmission on the driver side to replace the mount? The wheel on the driver side was off the ground during this process, can't remember about the passenger side.

 

That shouldn't have hurt it. The inner CV is designed to plunge in and out (has to travel with the suspension) and they can even be completely separated and slipped back together without any issues.

The carrier bearing on the passenger side CV could be the problem. That is included in the CV axle assembly.

 

Well this is odd...
I orderd a new CV shaft today, together with a new catalytic converter.
On the way home today i decided to see if the bad noise and shaking had become worce since last time, and i was struggeling to get any bad sounds at all now, even when turning hard over and pushing the gas, there was minimal noise/shaking. Nothing like before.. The little noise i hear now i'm struggeling to hear if it's anything in teh drivetrain or just my ratteling exhaust.
it's like the problem just suddenly wanished... :-/

All i know i've done recently was to replace the transmission mount back to the OEM as teh Anchor one was allready starting to crack up after only a year or so, and i was getting tired of excessive vibrations at idle. Combined with the engine seems to be leaning very far over towards teh passenger side, and i suspected the transmission mound.
The OEM mount calmed the idle vibrations down significantly, but engine is still leanign far over to passenger side (you need to use a pry bar or similar to get dog-bone off and on), but could it really be something with the other mount that cause this whole issue?

I mean, regardless if it was the CV or the diff, an issue like this shuoldn't suddenly just dissapear? Any ideas?

Concidering to cancel the CV shaft order now, but knowing rockauto they probably started to pack it for shipping while i was still placing the order, lol...

 

Gen 4, 2.2, 99 mod, jap made, V6 brakes.
I have a problem that i've had for a good while now. About a year. I've been living with it, but as it seems to get worse over time i think it's time to get it fixed...

Problem is, when i turn half a turn or more to the right, and accelerate, i hear this very bad rumbeling sound, almost like when you have a bad bearing. And at higher speed, like 10-20+ mph you can feel the shold front left wheel shake.

I first thought a loose exhaust or bad bearing, but i was unable to hear or feel anything bad on front left wheel, and it was there after repairing my slightly loose exhaust. Wheel is tightend well, and tire have plenty of pressure. New calipers and rotors also.
I thought it shuold be teh CV boot that had ripped, causing the CV to get damaged, but it was intact - and i don't hear this typical "clicking" sound either, like i did on my older toyota when the CV joint failed.
I spoke to the dealer, and they said it might be an issue with a bearing in the differential, and that it's a real PITA to replace. He kindly recommended to "take it easy on the gas in left turns and try to live with it". Note he didn't test-drove the car.

If i lay off the gas everything is night and smooth regardless of how hard i turn the wheel. But at this stage i can barly touch the gas before the sound is there, so it's now at an unacceptable level.

Any ideas? :help:

Here are my thoughts.

I don't think the problem is in your differential. The noise would be there all of the time. Since you have to turn the steering wheel to get the noise I am about 80% sure you have a front bearing going out. I've seen wheel bearings get loose without nose and have noise without being loose.

When you turn your steering wheel and accelerate, the pressure on the wheel bearing is changed from being straight on to being at an angle thus the change in noise.

Replace your wheel bearing. You'll notice a much quieter ride.

Did you mention how many miles/km on the car?

 

Thanks for the input in the front wheel bearing.
It was actually my very first suspect, but i've had fron wheel bearings go bad before, and then it's been so that they've always made some kind of bad noise while turning hard, regardless if i push the gas or not.

I've orderd a new catalytic converter and a new CV chaft, so i'll replace those first, and see if i'm able to locate the sourse - if it's still there. If i remember good the front bearing is a PITA to replace on these cars?

 

i don't believe i'd do it myself. take the hub to your favorite shop down the street on the wrong side of the tracks and they'll have a press to get the old one out and put the new on in for $20 or so. between the bearing and the axle, you should be good to go for many years of driving.
tony