I doubt that your engine can feel the difference, so long as you used the same viscosity.

Most likely it is something else and the timing was just a coincidence.

 

Yes the blend is a mixture of synthetic and conventional base oils.

What did you use before and what are you using now specifically? Weight of oil? Did you feel this change from the beginning of the OC?

 

Yes the blend is a mixture of synthetic and conventional base oils.

What did you use before and what are you using now specifically? Weight of oil? Did you feel this change from the beginning of the OC?

Before, I usually used StP conventional 5w30. The castrol I used was 5w30 as well.

I would say I didn't notice it right away. Maybe a week after the oil change.

 

Check for other things which could have changed at this time, which are more likely to actually cause the engine to run differently:

- is the AT fluid at the full line or low? Is it old (more than 50k miles)?
- are there any codes pending (OBDII)?
- is there a sticking brake caliper? (feel for a hot hub after a 20~30 min drive)
- how many miles on the O2 and A/F sensors in the exhaust, and the PCV and its hoses? (these are often overlooked maintenance items that need replacing at 100k intervals (the sensors) and 50k (PCV). For the sensors, only buy Denso, and only from trusted sources
- if you really, really think it is your oil, then change it again, back to what you used to use, to make sure

 

So some new developments. My new spark plug wires came in today. When I did my spark plugs a couple months ago, one of the boots would not come out. I eventually got it but the connector inside became loose. I fixed it the best I could and was able to get it to seat correctly, but the top wouldn't sit flush with the top of the engine.

So I replaced all the wires today just to be safe, and decided to check the torque on the spark plugs. This time I got a torque wrench. The spark plugs were absolutely not torqued correctly and I was able to torque them correctly to 13 foot pounds. Took it on a drive afterwards and she is behaving much much better now. Felt no major vibrations like I did before.

 

So I've had the car for 1.5 years now. So far besides the oil changes I've done brakes, front struts, sway bar links, tie rod ends, spark plugs, coolant temp sensor, air filter and I believe that is it. The AT fluid is still a bright red and the original owner who sold it to me said he had just done the timing belt/water pump, and one of the cv axles. The front struts I changed very recently too.

I was leaving work last night and while warming up the car had a very noticeable vibration to it. This went away once the car warmed up. Maybe because it's starting to get cold out? I don't know.

Another thing which I don't believe is related is the remote start quit working recently as well. I use the fob and the car tries to start but stops after a few seconds. This was installed by the original owner, and although it was nice to have last winter it's not that big of a deal to me. Car starts right up normally.

 

Maybe because it's starting to get cold out?

Yes this is the reason--the weather is changing toward colder temperatures (Fall into Winter).

The ambient air temperature is a major signal to the engine controller, especially the idle speed control while cold, open loop and before warm up.

Nothing to do with your oil, just a coincidence with the weather changing.

 

Unfortunately, remote starts and alarms on the Gen3&4 Camrys were aftermarket accessories installed by the dealer, so they will age and fail faster than the rest of the vehicle, sometimes to the point where they must be removed.

Regarding AT fluid, has it been changed, at all, in those 237k miles? It ought to be changed after the first 100k, and then every 50k from then on, to avoid issues.

Just the appearance is not enough to know if its additives are worn out / chemistry is breaking down.

 

Okay I just assumed the previous owner had it installed, interesting that the dealer did it. Do you know much about remote starts? I believe my Camry is stuck in valet mode as well. When I bought the car, the lights would blink when I locked/unlocked the doors with the fob, and there was also a beep. I did my brakes and ever since then the alarm seems to be disabled, the lights don't flash when i use my fob, and no beeps.

I've read that these are all symptoms of valet mode. Different remote starts have different procedures, but from what I've read a lot of them have to do with the brake pedal being pushed so many times as part of procedure. I think I activated it when I pumped my brakes after installing new brake pads if I had to guess.

I just honestly wish there wasn't a remote starter in it lol

 

Did they give you paperwork for the recent work done on the car? If not, you can either believe they did it or you can confirm they did some of what they told you they did by looking at the parts (axle and the timing belt with the top cover remove)

 

No paperwork, so I know I should take everything with a grain of salt. I will say that he definitely wasn't lying about the CV axle. One of them is obviously newer than the other. He was a nice older gentlemen that really didn't have no use for the car anymore is what he told me. Everything he told me about the car has been true to the best of my knowledge.

I've never done a timing belt before so I'm kind of hesitant. I know I should at the very least take the cover off and have a look see what condition the belt is in.

 

With 237K miles Id suspect your engine mounts gave up / are causing the excessive vibrations.


Could also be a cold misfire. If they changed the sparkplugs but not the wires they could have possibly damaged it especially if they are the original old wires.

 

Mounts were mentioned earlier but OP did not respond so perhaps they are fine and not as old as the mileage reported. Ease enough to check by loading and unloading the drivetrain while in gear and brakes applied.

 

I'm actually going to check the mounts tomorrow. How many is there besides the one under the hood?

 

Great news! Glad you have been able to sort things out.
Happy motoring.

 

Nice that you got it fixed from the induced FoD from earlier unfortunately that does happen

 

A bottle of Techron Injector Cleaner might be a good idea. If you have an OBDII scanner look at the Long Term Fuel Trim. A high positive around 18 would indicate longer pulse time to make up for restricted injectors.

 

I think a long as the oil weight is spec for the car is the most important thing.