Gen4 clocks have issues that they will get real dim. It's from poor connection on the board for the clock. I guess cold solder joints/cracks.

I did it for a friend's Gen4, but just heat up the larger solder joints on the back of the clock and should be okay.

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/363281-how-digital-clock-repair-2000-le.html

https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...6-1997-2001-1st-gen-solara-1999-2003/1429658-dash-clock-repair-replacement.html

This tends to happen in Gen4 where they are exposed in the sun a lot. Tends to happen more on the 1997-1999 VS 2000-2001, but can occur on all models.


For the lock/unlock, does your car have aftermarket alarm?

 

Thank you!


Here is the other clue I just noticed this morning:


It's off 25 min after just one day! Fast by 25 minutes.


That's super weird. >_<

 

For the lock/unlock, does your car have aftermarket alarm?


Nope. This lock/unlock prob showed up right when the clock magic started.


Makes it easy to leave the car THINKING it's locked, when in fact it's not.

Could had sworn someone else had same issues with their clock goin too fast too. Wonder if it's related.

For the lock/unlock, I wonder if something in the circuit is acting up. I've noticed some Gen4 (1997-1999) models sometimes they will keep repeating the last command (or what it sounds like). Mines tend to do that until the locks stop working about 4-5 times. I gotta replace all my door lock actuators...

 

For the lock/unlock, does your car have aftermarket alarm?


Nope. This lock/unlock prob showed up right when the clock magic started.


Makes it easy to leave the car THINKING it's locked, when in fact it's not.

 

Same thing as before:


Brightness level of the digital clock is super dim and the dang clock will not keep accurate time despite 3 resets.


And riiiight after I take the key out, there's no juice to provide control over the windows and door locks.


Is there some goop I can put on the terminal/posts that will make sure of the connection?


I have it on there pretty tight.

 

Hmm I would replace the clock if issue persist.

For the power window and locks, I know windows will cut power after 30sec or so after ignition (on) is turned off or until door is open. Power locks should be getting power continuously. Wonder if there’s a relay issue going on.

 

Another clue popped up:


Tranny functioning is fine, but often when I'm in neutral or in D, the red R for reverse remains lit.



Normally just ONE driving mode is lit, right? Like D or P or R, right?



For me now? Naw, TWO can be lit at the same time. >_<



And yeah, car reverses fine, goes into drive or "2" or P for Park just fine.


Is it possible for the tranny to work fine but tranny indicator lights to be effed up..?


:/