Read the code. I can dream up possible theories, but that's not useful if you have CEL code that will tell you what's going on.

I don't think it has to do with that hose because it looks like a breather and shouldn't cause a CEL

Here is one of our members SRI with a simple filter on that hose (wtaylor):

 

P0171 Toyota - Air/Fuel Mixture System Lean Bank 1

So i put back the stock intake and the CEL went away. do you think the aftermarket intake is giving it to much air which throws the maf sensor? But then again i heard K & N are reliable with their products and is trusted, im confused....

 

Have you changed the intake manifold gasket? This has a near 100% failure on the 1ZZ-FE.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...9-diy-2005-2008-corolla-matrix-pontiac-vibe-intake-gasket-replacement-pics.html

As far as I know a brand new intake shouldn't effect the MAF and throw a code like that. If not I would buy the orange gasket (like $5-10) and put it in and see if it's okay with the intake. Even with the stock intake it should be replaced.

 

yea went to the mechanic they replaced with a new gasket. they told me to stick with my stock intake because it doesnt throw a cel. im just curious why does it throw a cel when i install my aftermarket K & N intake. do you the aftermarket in take is faulty? and a second idea i was thinking was get a drop in K & N filter for the stock intake would it still make the same deep sound and a bit of gain then the full aftermarket SRI?

 

I don't think it's faulty, or at least it shouldn't be because it's supposed to work with the MAF and stock ECU calibrations for engine airflow.

I will note that an oiled filter has the potential to cause this code by coating the MAF with some oil changing it's sensitivity to temperature and thus its ability to accurately detect air flow correctly. This is usually after improper cleaning though.

My original thought was that replacing the stock intake might have moved or taken some tension off the intake manifold and thus gasket, and if it was the original might have increased the possibility of vacuum leak.

I might look into giving the MAF a clean with some cleaner...

I see no reason for that brand new intake to cause a lean code or not be compatible with your MAF. I know member Black007 is running a convertible SRI/CAI Injen SP2077BLK on his 07 Corolla with no CEL problems...

 

dude thanks a lot ill keep you posted if anything see if the problem still happens but all in all much appreciated.

 

I just bought one today and i'm going to install it tonight
And mine is 07 too , we'll see what happen

and i think you should get a MAF cleaner and clean The MAF sensor just like Exage said . And this is what i'm gonna do before installing the K&N filter tonight

 

Yes i got the same code !!!

just installed it last night




its not just that
i lost some power , it feels like i'm drivin a big truck with a small engine
and it was too loud for a filter, sounded like i removed the exhaust

 

Put the stock system back on and re-route the inlet to a cold area.
(sorry the photos and graphs don't work)

 

one of my tune up guys just told me to keep the aftermarket intake on until you get an inspections test when its up then just put back on the stock..... but then again its a pain in the ass he just told me most 9th gen corollas have those problems.. if anyone knows a way around let me know thanks

 

When you installed the intake you changed the air flow to the engine and the maf sensor is sending incorrect air fuel info. to the computer. The maf sensor is very sensitive and should be handled carefully and cleaned with contact cleaner. The compressed air and rough handling could have damaged it also. A new sensor won't solve the root problem caused by the new intake.

 

It could be that where the MAF is relocated on the new intake's tube is an incorrect distance from the filter, causing the readings to be off. It could also be that the filter is over-oiled (K&N tends to do this when manufacturing to ensure the filter is not under-oiled) and this extra oil is being pulled away by the incoming air, coating the MAF and going through the rest of the intake system as well. So my suggestion would be to buy the cleaning kit, go about the process of cleaning the filter with the spray and a good rinse until the material is greyish-white, let it air dry (which could take a day or two; don't apply any heat because you can damage the fibers, but you can point a fan at it to speed things up) and then re-oil it yourself with the other spray. Follow the instructions for re-oiling that are in the cleaning kit, and understand that you really don't need to spray the filter all that much. You're basically just spraying enough so that the material has a pinkish-to-red color to it, and not so much that it's colored very dark or dripping oil. Spray it, let it sit for a few hours, and then check to see if there are any spots that have lightened up as the oil settles. Touch up those spots, let it sit, and check again. Once you're good, reinstall, clean your MAF properly, and see what happens. If you're still getting your code, I'd put my money on the new intake's relocation of the MAF sensor at an incorrect distance from the filter as what's causing your code.

Another possibility might be to try a high flow style, dry filter similar to the ones K&N makes, only not requiring any oil, and see what happens there. It would kind of stink for that to solve the issue because the K&N filter is a good chunk of what you're paying for with that CAI (because let's face it, a painted and stickered metal tube is still just a metal tube), but the only real possibilities I can see for the issue are too much oil, a bad MAF location, or a combination of the two.

As for the power loss, that's going to happen because the car is trying to protect its engine due to the lean condition it's detecting.

I've used a K&N drop-in filter in my stock intake and had no issues, but I'm always careful not to oil it too much.

 

The lean code has happened with different brands of intake on the 1zz: Injen, Cosmo etc... Its nothing new and people had to go back to stock intake.

 

i went back to stock

Toyota told my friend that the air that is going in, is too much that the engine can't supply enough fuel ..!!
and that's why i and my friend were losing power instead of gaining
the MAF was clean !
tried to change the location of the sensor and had the same problem
it feels so heavy with a loud sound

 

No that is incorrect, stock injectors should not be taxed to such a high pulse width with such a small airflow increase from a SRI.

The reason why you lost power was because it went to open loop on the ECU (it's actually running richer than normal, like the warmup cycle) when it detected a problem with the MAF to pre-cat O2 sensor readings. This is a engine fail-safe mode and runs preset parameters not taking into account certain sensor/information to adjust the performance of the engine.

Many engines can get away without fuel delivery problems with up to 40-50bhp increases, running stock fuel systems. After which injectors and fuel pumps become a concern as the injector pulse width is maxed at higher engine speeds and fuel rail pressure decreases due to the increase in fuel flow.

Edit:

I'm curious, did you guys disconnect the battery during the intake install?

I know it's a SRI so unlike a CAI you don't have to remove or even touch the battery to install it. When you disconnect the battery for a while, the ECU looses some of the memory for running data that it has stored and has to relearn it. This is actually beneficial as it's learning the parameters with the new intake. Just a thought... I don't know if this could solve the problem.

 

yes the battery was disconnected while i was installing it
actually i kinda like what Toyota said
cuz it feels like that


cuz it drives good
but when i step on the gas you can hear the loud sound of the filter but at the same time you look at the RBM going up slowly
and when i left my foot a little it goes fast
this picture explains


the green zone is where i get a really good response even faster then with the stock filter
the red zone is where the problems start
feels heavy, sounds loud , slower acceleration and check engine goes on
i drove it like 45 mins without stepping on the gas all the way and the check engine didn't go on

Thank you Exage :thumbsup:

 

if you disconnected the battery the car will need to relearn its idle and running parameters. That will sort itself out after a little while, but the CEL has to be getting caused by the intake tube having an improper location for the MAF sensor. It's either too close or too far away from the filter compared to where it was on the stock setup, and that is causing different airflow readings for the MAF sensor than what it's happy with.

 

First thing i did was leaving it to idle for like 10 minutes
after that i drove it without going full throttle for another 10 minutes
but when i stepped on the gas, the problem started again :disappoin


i tried to put the MAF close to the filter
i tried to put far ( put long extintion between the filter and the MAF )
the same problem everytime

Thank you for the info :thumbsup:

Your car itself is not running lean, ECU "thinks" it is based on the whatever is going on with MAF is sensing due to the intake.

It's entirely possible that what Saga has stated is happening. Less likely could be ECU parameters for MAF voltages are sensitive or the MAF itself is producing a voltages out of an acceptable range at WOT. I can not determine because, this is an electrical/computing issue via the MAF to ECU...

Unfortunately it doesn't seem like this SRI is working. I guess you're option is the K&N drop it with stock air box, or just never go full throttle (but how fun is that?)...

yeah how fun would that be :lol:

i will stick with stock :thumbsup:

 

Your car itself is not running lean, ECU "thinks" it is based on the whatever is going on with MAF is sensing due to the intake.

It's entirely possible that what Saga has stated is happening. Less likely could be ECU parameters for MAF voltages are sensitive or the MAF itself is producing a voltages out of an acceptable range at WOT. I can not determine because, this is an electrical/computing issue via the MAF to ECU...

Unfortunately it doesn't seem like this SRI is working. I guess you're option is the K&N drop in with stock air box, or just never go full throttle (but how fun is that?)...

EDIT: The car is actually running lean, it is not injecting enough fuel due to decrease in air velocity from the MAF. This is being picked up by the A/F / 02 sensor near the exhaust manifold.

 

does the k & n drop in filter have the same sound as the full k & n sri? thanks

 

Unfortunately not. It probably won't sound much different, if at all, to a stock filter in the box.

 

So i noticed that the diameter of the MAF housing that i bought from pepboys was bigger then the stock one

2.5​

2.76​

This is the problem , right?

should i try for the last time to fit a 2.5 MAF housing and see what happen?

i mean could the size of the housing be the problem?

cuz from what i understand when the pipe is bigger the MAF sensor will be sending a wrong reading to how much air is coming to the engine

but i said i'll ask you guys to make sure before i go ahead and get another housing :thumbsup:

 

....i mean could the size of the housing be the problem?

cuz from what i understand when the pipe is bigger the MAF sensor will be sending a wrong reading to how much air is coming to the engine....

Without getting into a super long and boring fluid dynamics lecture/rant, yes, changing the diameter of the tube directly affects the airflow through the system, which will cause the MAF to have different readings than what it expects.

Basically, If the tube's (inner) diameter grows, the same volume of air through the tube will go through it at a lower pressure, and a lower velocity. Just the same, if you made the tube smaller, the same volume of air would travel through much faster and at a higher pressure. Either way, the MAF is going to get unhappy readings because neither case is ideal for it.

You can try changing it and see what happens. Hopefully it works out.

 

This has the potential to solve it. I know that a 2ZZ can't run a 3in on a stock ECU (PPE Engineering), my Injen RD2082 is a 2.75", stock is 2.6" or 5.75cm ID from what I measured going to the flex hose looks like; the same as yours. The Injen SP2077 is also a 2.75" for the 1ZZ and appears to work for some Corollas.

Diameter has a direct effect on the air flow rate.

I think it's worth a try, depends on the price I guess, or if you can return it. See If they have around a 2.6" though it looks a smidgen bigger than 2.5" on the ID.

 

This has the potential to solve it. I know that a 2ZZ can't run a 3in on a stock ECU (PPE Engineering), my Injen RD2082 is a 2.75", stock is 2.6" or 5.75cm ID from what I measured going to the flex hose looks like; the same as yours. The Injen SP2077 is also a 2.75" for the 1ZZ and appears to work for some Corollas.

Diameter has a direct effect on the air flow rate.

I think it's worth a try, depends on the price I guess, or if you can return it. See If they have a 2.6" though.

i just googled it
The Injen SP2077 has a smaller diameter where the MAF sensor goes ( as shown in the pic )






even the K&N is the same ..!!



i guess it worth the try
and i can turn back the one i bought
i'll do it when i have time this week , probably next weekend and i'll keep you updated

 

Air filter (both stock and oiled gause like K&N) efficiency goes up with use.
So changing the stock filter every year or cleaning the K&N every 6 months actually lets more dirt into the engine.
The filtration gets better and better until the restriction reaches an unacceptable level.
An air filter will get to look really dirty before restriction rises significantly.
There are restriction gauges that can be added just downstream of the filter to eliminate the guesswork.

http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_111486/article.html

 

The 1ZZ doesn't measure pressure at the MAF.

MAF is for Mass air flow and the MAF sensor has built in IAT (intake air temperature sensor). The sensor measures how much air goes by it and what the temperature of the air is.

Older designs used MAP which is Manifold Absolute Pressure and a separate IAT to measure air volume. It measures intake pressure against specified values to determine air volume.

If you put a bigger tube and allow more air to get in, the MAF sensor will read this increased airflow. The computer knows how much air a 1ZZ can let in for most conditions. This increased air goes past the limits of the ECU and throws a CEL.

Putting on a big air tube may allow more air than the ECU allows triggering a lean code. It's also possible your MAF is located too far from the throttle body giving the appearance of unmetered air when combined with the big tube

 

If you put a bigger tube and allow more air to get in, the MAF sensor will read this increased airflow. The computer knows how much air a 1ZZ can let in for most conditions. This increased air goes past the limits of the ECU and throws a CEL.

The MAF is a hotwire sensor, it will actually read reduced air flow with a larger diameter than stock because the velocity of airflow is decreased. Saga stated the reason so no need to rehash.

What must have happened is that the ECU detected a lower air flow rate via the MAF at near to wide open throttle, it was injecting less fuel than normal WOT air flow and the 02 sensor pre-cat was picking this difference up and threw the lean code.

The same condition with intake gasket as air is not accounted for by the MAF passing by the throttle or AICV as it is leaking in from the gasket.

I guess I shouldn't be surprised that it's this touchy. I mean the 2ZZ has no problem with a 2.75in (BTW thanks for the SP2077 pic Ali.S, I didn't notice that they had reduced diameter at MAF:thumbsup and lean conditions. It's almost always the secondary air injection pump fault that causes the CEL on ours.

 

You are saying what I meant to say.

I should have said increased air volume. From my understanding using the built in IAT allows the ECU to factor in air density. If the air density is the same but flow is decreased this looks like a leak.

 

Problem solved !!

so the problem was the size of the MAF sensor housing

I drove it more then 100 mile and still no check engine and no problem with throttle response :thumbsup:
Hope it stays like this

thnx guys for every thing :hi:

 

Problem solved !!

so the problem was the size of the MAF sensor housing

I drove it more then 100 mile and still no check engine and no problem with throttle response 👍
Hope it stays like this

thnx guys for every thing :hi:

where did you buy your maf sensor housing Bc Im having the same problem and I haven’t been able to fix

 

Awesome! Glad there's a simple solution. Hopefully it has stuck. Given it's been a few weeks now, Ali.S, are you still trouble-free?

 

YES Sir i am still trouble-free

i had a little problem
that i couldn't find the right size for the MAF housing
so here is what i did
i took half of the stock one :dunno: and used it



creative haha :thumbsup:


it looks ugly i know
but i'm planning on buying ( injen cold intake ) or go back to stock
so this is just temporary
i just did it to see if this was the solution or no