A defective O2 sensor by itself should not stop your car from running. Check your car for other possible faults that are coinciding with your faulty O2 sensor. Complete/Fill out your TN profile information so that we know what car you are referring to.

 

The only two codes I seen when I check the code reader I was working fine besides the smell I checked fuses

 

Also, take a look if the wiring is all connected properly on that downstream O2 sensor. It may be possible that the wiring got pulled apart or damaged being that it is under the car (meaning it is possible your old O2 sensor is fine, but you wiring may have become damaged).

 

I did cut the wires off the 02 sensor a few days ago trying to remove it and put the new one in the photo nothing happened untill now

 

It would be best to take a photo of your newly installed O2 sensor and wiring harness connection. If nothing happened until now, why did you replace the old O2 sensor?

 

no i never installed that new sensor i had these codes already and i knew i had to change 02 sensor but never had problem until today car stalling and not turning over but cranking

 

I want to focus on the no-start.

I have 97 Camry 3.0l I was just sitting in vehicle when car was on and it shut down on me can these codes prevent car from starting

I agree with Strega315 that these codes and the problems with the rear oxygen sensor should not be causing this no start.

dawarrior33, when you try to start the Camry, can you hear the engine cranking (but not catching)? Or when you turn the key to "Start," do you hear nothing from the engine bay except maybe a click or two?

Does your Camry have an immobilizer system? Does the key have a transponder built into it?

Can you check for spark?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then attempting starting again?

 

I want to focus on the no-start.
I agree with Strega315 that these codes and the problems with the rear oxygen sensor should not be causing this no start.

dawarrior33, when you try to start the Camry, can you hear the engine cranking (but not catching)? Or when you turn the key to "Start," do you hear nothing from the engine bay except maybe a click or two?

Does your Camry have an immobilizer Does the key have a transponder built into it?

Can you check for spark?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then attempting starting again?

ok yes so i know like you guys said its not the 02 sensor to cause this the car to stall it does not have a transponder just a plain key the car is cranking but not turning over i will disconnect battery and see what happens from there

 

Also check the Blue 15 amp EFI fuse. See if that fuse is blown.

Did you disconnect the old sensor before cutting the wires? One if the wires supplies battery voltage. Autozone does have various sensor sockets on their free loaner list (with refundable deposit), that way you don't have to cut any wire.

 

Also check the Blue 15 amp EFI fuse. See if that fuse is blown.

Did you disconnect the old sensor before cutting the wires? One if the wires supplies battery voltage. Autozone does have various sensor sockets on their free loaner list (with refundable deposit), that way you don't have to cut any wire.

i did not ttake 02 sensor off never was able to get it off have to go to someone that can lift vehicle checked 15amp fuses under hood and dash both good i will disconnect it from under seat. i will try the loaner tool

 

Try to give it some pedal and see if it cranks and starts. if so then could be you IAC is clogged up.
V6... that has the MAF. Check to see if the intake boot is attached or has any rips etc,,. between the MAF and the throttle body.... they are made with junk rubber that splits and crumbles when it gets old....very important for MAF cars.

Those are the easy "no effort" tests... if those don't work then you'll need to dig deeper and start checking for fuel / spark.

 

Try to give it some pedal and see if it cranks and starts. if so then could be you IAC is clogged up.
V6... that has the MAF. Check to see if the intake boot is attached or has any rips etc,,. between the MAF and the throttle body.... they are made with junk rubber that splits and crumbles when it gets old....very important for MAF cars.

Those are the easy "no effort" tests... if those don't work then you'll need to dig deeper and start checking for fuel / spark.
[/QUOTE

funny you said the intake boot it was ripped in half for a while noticed it month ago i have brand new ones there will check again also would simple throttle body cleaner show i sign im going to vehicle now will show some pics or videos

 

I had that replaced few months ago that is not my problem this time

 

then its time to start the actual work / diagnosis process

 

The other member mentioned the idle air valve (IAC). If you slightly open the throttle when cranking, would the car then start? If so maybe all the dust gummed up the IAC shut? (besides MAF diagnosis of course).

 

appreciate info i will try tomorrow with day light keep ya posted

 

The wires may have been swapped on the O2 sensors...Lookit: Code P0041 O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Bank 2 Sensor 2
And, lookit this: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0136 Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)

 

The wires may have been swapped on the O2 sensors...Lookit: Code P0041 O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Bank 2 Sensor 2
And, lookit this: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0136 Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)

While dawarrior33 states in the thread subject "p041 and p0136", his scanner images are showing P0136 & P0141; so I wouldn't focus on P0041 as his scanner display isn't showing that.

While I would agree that Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 sensor having a defect wouldn't cause the engine not to start, dawarrior33 stated he cut the wires and he did not say that he repaired the wires he cut. I'm thinking both his scanner codes are a result of him cutting his wires. It is also possible that the cutting of wires shorted his sensor heater circuit, possibly blowing a fuse in that circuit. I don't have a wiring diagram for a 1997 V6 engine control system, so I don't know what else may be tied to this heater circuit.

I think there is more to this story. Has the check engine light been on for a long time? Did the check engine light ever start flashing or blinking? If there has been a check engine light on for a long time, it is very possible the catalytic converter has failed, possibly plugging, which could cause this current condition. Hopefully this is not the case, but it is a possible connection between the DTC's and the fact the engine won't start now.

 

He needs to post pictures tied to what he is trying to say, for us to visualize and be able to help. It isn't clear enough trying to explain in words only.

 

im going to send pictures now sorry

 

 

Do check that the timing marks at the crankshaft and camshaft are lined up properly when Cylinder No. 1 is set to Top Dead Center, at both the crankshaft and the camshafts. (I do not have a V6. Someone should chime in with suggestions about checking that the crankshaft is in synch with the camshafts.)

I hear you about the battery. I have not ruled out its being the problem.

 

There was a lot of good tips given to help this individual out but in my opinion it could be a bad distributor, fuel pump or crankshaft sensor? I have had issues with a 94 1.8 corolla before when I was driving the car cut off I instantly thought it was the fuel filter & replaced it with a crank no start but traced it back to a bad distributor. I also have a 97 1.6 corolla with a replaced engine that I’ll start up once in a while but I let sit for about 2 years till one day it had a crank no start I replaced the fuel pump with no luck, replaced the crankshaft sensor which was original but looking beat but still had the crank No start then replaced the replaced the Distributor after seeing the rotor & pins on the cap were worn again crank no start I once again replaced the fuel pump for shits & giggles since I was getting spark & it ran again who would of thought that the first pump installed was defective Denso pump at that?

 

im not sure if im hearing the fuel pump but i did check the fuses i do not have a distributor just coil packs im still trying to figure out the problem going to try to remove 02 sensor with loaner tool from autozone

 

toyota auto are fussy with 02 sensors. Toyota OEM or Denso should be use or can cause issues.

ONe of the fault codes for O2 was for the heater. Some O2 have heater so when not up to temp the O2 can still work or better. Cut wire can now be shorted or no reading... give you faults but not working at all.

The O2 may not have been the cause for STOP WORKING but it can contribute.
Get a Denso O2 Number, search the web, can get like half price if you look.
Drive up on curb with 2 tires... you can fit under car now and do the work. Add a 2x4 or 2x6 to the curb or under street tires and you have more clearance. I have done this many times.... safe and clearnace to do some of this. also perfect for oil changes because the slope can be made so it is the plug hole is lowest part of oil pan.

WHAT PART OF COUNTRY ARE YOU IN???
May have got some condensation or water in your gas, or just got bad gas.
This can shut your engine down.
Are you in a cold weather climate and is/was your gas tank mostly empty???
Have you had a drop in temps or snow storm recently???

 

toyota auto are fussy with 02 sensors. Toyota OEM or Denso should be use or can cause issues.

ONe of the fault codes for O2 was for the heater. Some O2 have heater so when not up to temp the O2 can still work or better. Cut wire can now be shorted or no reading... give you faults but not working at all.

The O2 may not have been the cause for STOP WORKING but it can contribute.
Get a Denso O2 Number, search the web, can get like half price if you look.
Drive up on curb with 2 tires... you can fit under car now and do the work. Add a 2x4 or 2x6 to the curb or under street tires and you have more clearance. I have done this many times.... safe and clearnace to do some of this. also perfect for oil changes because the slope can be made so it is the plug hole is lowest part of oil pan.

WHAT PART OF COUNTRY ARE YOU IN???
May have got some condensation or water in your gas, or just got bad gas.
This can shut your engine down.
Are you in a cold weather climate and is/was your gas tank mostly empty???
Have you had a drop in temps or snow storm recently???

Hey how is it going i appreciate your response. I am in New York, i have the loaner tool for me to remove 02 sensor and put the new one. On the back of my muffler tank i noticed a small hole for some time condensation/water always drips when I turn on the vehicle, been like that for a while now will send a photo. Right now the weather is dropping its currently 44 degrees no snow as of yet my gas is slightly under half of a tank

 

Spray some starting fluid in the throttle body, carb cleaner will also work if you do not have starting fluid.
If starts up...
Your system has a fuel issue

 

post 29
I love my cig/power splitter and USB, see the 10.2 V.

That is saying your battery voltage is 10.2V and a auto typical to need about 12V or just under to even run. Borrow a 2-4 AMP battery charger and charge for 8 hrs. Then you car will start possible. Also you have have a charging issue and is why the battery is low voltage, it would make the car die, batter could be low from just using the starter

At this point we do not know cause of low battery or why car died.... but this has to be addressed with charge or battery swap. The have a battery brush for cleaning terminals inside and battery posts. Any corrosion and non shinny connections can keep the alternator from charging.

Battery brush is cheap and walmart should have one.
The oxidation on the bottom side pic of your battery terminal is "oxidized"
Oxidized Terminal will lower the battery power and the charging quite a bit.
I like to put vasiline jelly on the battery terminal once cleaned up... it keeps terminal from oxidation and corrosion.

Charged good battery will read 12.3 to 12.8 volts resting/not running

Good Charging & Battery combo will read 14.4 (13.7 to 14.8 range) volts when running and going down road. Lower at idle and higher when moving at 20mph or 1500 rpms on tack

That is a good little "tool" to have....
Need to go back and read... lot of activity today
Hope this helps

 

post 29
I love my cig/power splitter and USB, see the 10.2 V.

That is saying your battery voltage is 10.2V and a auto typical to need about 12V or just under to even run. Borrow a 2-4 AMP battery charger and charge for 8 hrs. Then you car will start possible. Also you have have a charging issue and is why the battery is low voltage, it would make the car die, batter could be low from just using the starter

At this point we do not know cause of low battery or why car died.... but this has to be addressed with charge or battery swap. The have a battery brush for cleaning terminals inside and battery posts. Any corrosion and non shinny connections can keep the alternator from charging.

Battery brush is cheap and walmart should have one.
The oxidation on the bottom side pic of your battery terminal is "oxidized"
Oxidized Terminal will lower the battery power and the charging quite a bit.
I like to put vasiline jelly on the battery terminal once cleaned up... it keeps terminal from oxidation and corrosion.

Charged good battery will read 12.3 to 12.8 volts resting/not running

Good Charging & Battery combo will read 14.4 (13.7 to 14.8 range) volts when running and going down road. Lower at idle and higher when moving at 20mph or 1500 rpms on tack

That is a good little "tool" to have....
Need to go back and read... lot of activity today
Hope this helps

wow good calls thanks for your info i do know 100% my car battery needs to be changed. There are times i come to the vehicle and time/radio and computer resets itself. I will swap out my battery hopefully it starts up, the vehicle died when i was using car air compressor and i noticed it cut off and that's when car shutdown on me i tried to jump it and checked fuses

 

charge the battery you have...... small chargers are better 2-4 amp rating....takes about 8 hrs
clean the battery terminals and posts of battery
record or what your lighter splitter says on display.... I like to ck Voltage the next day after charging
it charges at 14.4 volts, battery will then read 13V or little more, next day will settle down to 12.4 range
If does not hold a charge, voltage will go lower.

Good to do this because you may have a alternator/charging problem..... dirty battery connections can do this also

thank you

 

The battery cable pictured in picture 3 of post "Discussion strarter #30" is very corroded (that green material covering the copper strands). This alone could prevent full charging and necessary voltage to start the engine, thus crank no start. It could also cause a whole bunch of other electrical problems including no power/appliance resets. Only charging/replacing the battery wouldn't be a permanent fix. Consider replacing that entire battery cable, better, both of them. I'd do that before worrying about your alternator.

 

ok appreciate the help

How’s your weekend I’m going to replace the battery went to autozone to charge it came back they said the battery was dead to replace it still trying to get the vehicle to start