I presume that most of you guys would take advantage of the 2 year/ 25k mi Toyota Care that's included with all new Toyotas. But I personally don't trust dealership mechanics to always do a good job (bad experiences). Anyways, if there is anyone who actually tried doing their own oil change on the new Crown, how was it? Pretty standard and simple like the other models? Which filter did you use? Which oil?

 

I've have had my oil changed at the dealership and at local gas stations in the past. They both presented an elaborate display of high end motor oil cans at their establishments. This gave the impression the customer was getting only the highest quality oil. When I changed the oil myself, I noticed an increase in gas mileage. Evidently, the engine was running smoother and thereby increasing mileage. I have a Solara, but I highly recommend changing the oil yourself regardless of which model you own.

 

Interested! I would presume there are center front and rear jack points as on our Highlander? One would probably need to use a jack/jack-stands or ramps. 81 years aged here, 2+ million miles logged, and have ALWAYS changed my own oil, for the reason stated. The grease monkey at a dealership is typically a young new-hire with scant training. I prefer WIX filters and Mobil 1.

 

Thank you for sharing. Yeah, I've had a mechanic put in such a low amount of oil one time, it was below the minimum mark on the dip stick when I checked it myself. I have so many stories.

It's not rocket science, many vids, follow Scottie Kilmer on You Tube. A Haynes manual and $200 in tools, Harbor Freight is awesome, save your money. Hundreds of how-to vids out there.

Scotty Kilmer. Such an informative guy. Thank you.

No one touches my Oil. DIY'ing my Oil for 37-years*. Friends have related too many horror stories about all the many variations on all the IDIOTIC things "mechanics" can do to ruin your day, your engine and your driveway from crazy oil-change mishaps!

*Except for 1991, when I allowed myself to be suckered by the Dealership into "free oil changes for life" when I bought my new Toyota Pick-up. They never said whose lifetime-- mine or the truck's. On the second "free" oil change, I checked right after-- he shorted me a full Qt. on a 4-Qt. system. That's a Dealership cheating me by 25% and who knows if the slob changed my filter? Never went back.

I employ genuine OEM Toyota Filters, change the OEM drain bolt Gasket each time, Mobile-1 Full Synthetic.

Exactly. Can't trust mechanics, especially the employees that get paid a low hourly wage.

The last new truck I bought was in 1989, never went back for service because of the long drive.

I even fixed (what would have been) a warranty brake rotor machining job myself, to avoid making the two trips since I needed the car at home.

Forget about looking for the too-light 0W8 oil, it's not good for your car!

One of the things I like about buying used is avoiding any "free" service offers and warrany-related hassles.

My 2015 drain plug never had a washer but I bought it used and it hasn't leaked a drop in five years.

I did my own trans fluid change at 23k, nine quarts of Toyota fluid for peace of mind.

I replaced 1.5gal of the coolant with Toyota's extra long life coolant at around the same time, better early than late.

I use 10W30 instead of the recommended 0W20, it doesn't rattle upon start-up any more and the 10W30 is good down to zero F. I change the oil annually after each 4.5k miles and replace the Toyota filter every other time. The weather here doesn't go below 30F so the filter and the oil's "winter" weight are less critical.

Thank you for sharing. I will most likely use 0w-16. And yes, usually 'free' comes with catches, usually poor service.

Oil: Open Manual PDF, and search oil. it should list how much and what weight. Go to store and pick it up.
Filter: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/category/parts

For the powertrain warranty, just dump the cheapest spec oil you can buy at the Severe OCI and some toyota filters.
Done!

Thank you. I appreciate you taking the time!

Use the Viscosity of the oil that your manual says. Mobil 1 is always safe. Toyota filters are inexpensive so I just go with OEM. Toyota’s free services used to be a filter change every service but oil change every other. Check your manual to see if it’s still true! I want my oil changed every service. The first service I like to have done is at 1,000 miles, but I keep my toyotas 300,000 plus miles. Keep in mind Suggested services are made to get you past the warranty period. Check out THE CAR CARE NUT on line.

The Car Care Nut is a great resource. Thank you.

I've have had my oil changed at the dealership and at local gas stations in the past. They both presented an elaborate display of high end motor oil cans at their establishments. This gave the impression the customer was getting only the highest quality oil. When I changed the oil myself, I noticed an increase in gas mileage. Evidently, the engine was running smoother and thereby increasing mileage. I have a Solara, but I highly recommend changing the oil yourself regardless of which model you own. View attachment 426472

Solara. What a classic beauty.

 

Why don't you try it to change it yourself ? You may find it easy or just too much trouble for you . Toyota does not make oil or filters so any name brand will be fine.

 

Just because Toyota care covers it, doesn’t mean it’s that good.
Coming from a 4Runner, the dealership stories you hear and see about overnighted filters, wrapped oil plugs, broken skid plates screws, missing oil plug gaskets, wrong oil type, overfills and the list goes on.
Remember who does your oil change. Most probably a 16-18 years old and not a senior technician.

 

I would not let anyone do my oil changes. Even if they were free.

 

All depends on the reputation your dealership's service dept has. I personally would probably take advantage of Toyota's 2 free oil changes under Toyotacare and free tire rotations but would prefer if they just gave me the supplies to do the oil change myself (which they wont becuase they pump the oil out of a 55 gallon drum in the shop). I know of a decent dealership that has done a good job in the past. I always make sure to get my service advisor's name, phone number, and ask them exactly what they will be doing. I mark all my tires with a marker to make sure they were actually rotated, draw a line on the oil filter with a random colored paint to make sure it's changed, etc.

Canadian Bacon above pretty much hit the nail on the head with what can go wrong. Every time I do an oil change on a friend's car who previously took it to a mechanic or dealership, it's a 2 year old oil filter that was never changed and my friend's were lied to about it being changed (in one scenario my friend provided the mechanic with his own oil filter he bought from the dealer's parts department and the mechanic he took it to kept it and left the old purolator filter on there), the drain plug is missing the gasket or it has an old crushed up one with a bunch of red RTV compound on it and it's torqued to like 80 foot pounds, the oil level is severely overfilled to prevent the customer from coming back and complaining 2 months later about low oil if their car is burning oil (tire shops overinflate tires too). There are always missing splash shield bolts/clips, etc.

 

Nobody touches my Cars unless it's tires

Nobody

Anything another human can do,you can do

Probably better ,with better parts ,and less money

I'm 57,granted the day is coming I won't be able to

Then it's going to be the younger kid next door or something lol

Never let your car leave your sight

 

Nobody touches my Cars unless it's tires

Nobody

Anything another human can do,you can do

Probably better ,with better parts ,and less money

I'm 57,granted the day is coming I won't be able to

Then it's going to be the younger kid next door or something lol

Never let your car leave your sight

Same, Lots of money saved, lots learned and I am satisfied the person who did the job cares about the car and is doing the job right. I have found only 2 downsides to doing all your own work. First, no warranties on your own work, if a shop does your timing belt job and something goes wrong, they owe you a new engine. If I do the job and something goes wrong, it is on me. Which I accept. The second downside, people notice you are good at working on cars, All my family and friends come to me to work on their cars. Neighbors too. For the neighbors I usually tell them, I will not fix it for you but I will be happy to help you figure out the problem and help you to fix it.

 

My 2022 Avalon went in for the first oil change and it was less than 2,500 miles. I took it to the dealer. I have no clue if they even removed the cover to get to the oil filter. After inspecting the undercarriage, nothing was missing. I found oil on the bumper as well, which I cleaned off. I had a talk with the service advisor about not damaging the car. It is really crazy that one has to inspect their own car. You do not want to get home to realize that they damaged your vehicle as there is no recourse then.

My next oil change is in May of next year. After this, no more. Assuming it is the same filter and housing as the 2016 Avalon, I have two removal tools. One has teeth and the other does not. The only bad part is that even with torque specifications of 20 ft. lbs., it is tough to remove with the car jacked up.

The drain plug was easy to remove though. I have no idea why it came off very easy this go around. I am going to check the torque wrench against others to make sure it is not off.

I always took the 16 Avalon to the dealer for the oil change because they had coupons, etc. and it was not worth getting my hands dirty. But now, for the extra cost and time saved, well worth it. I will follow the path with the new Avalon.

I totally agree that you should be changing your own oil, or at least bring it to a qualified mechanic, with your own oil and filters and watch them do it. And YES, they have young kids changing the oil.

 

 

I hear ya. Our new to us highlander isn’t new, but the last oil change was at the dealer and I needed a 1/2” breaker bar to get the oil drain bolt off. The washer was crushed beyond recognition. The inner part of the crush washer squeezed inside the female threaded hole of the oil pan a bit. Unreal.
Glad I could see the competence of the local Toyota dealer first hand.
enjoyed getting to know the new to us car last night. I just drove the front two wheels onto the black plastic ramps I have and used two jack stands on each side as a safety and wheel chocks behind rear wheels. All this with parking brake fully on and my 3 ton jack just barely li firing a frame portion as well.

 

They couldn't care less. I think the reason behind the drain plug is that the torque specifications are not that tight. Mine was loose this go around, but it appeared I had 2 washers. The blue ones that they recommend. I guess last time it did not come off and this is the reason. I had torqued the drain plug to 30 ft. lbs. I have seen 50 ft. lbs. from mechanics.

 

Ya, those washers with the blue paper on the surface tend to stick to the pan the next time you pull the plug out. I just did my oil and had to use a screwdriver to pop it off it was hanging on so tight, very easy for someone not paying attention to not notice and double washer. Also, I notice these washers, usually aluminum will ever so slightly soften up and give a little after a few heating cycles and take a bit of tension off of the plug, you might snug it down very snug at the oil change but the next time you remove the plug it feels like it is bairly more than finger tight. I always get under the car after a couple of drives to check and snug the plug again just to be safe. There are times I have not re-tightened, the plug feels not very snug but has never come off or leaked at all. It is just a little unnerving to find it not "Tight". I seem to only notice this happen with the aluminum crush washers, have never had this occur with copper or plastic washers, at least in my experience.

 

Plus, bad lighting while changing the oil. I use these small tools so the pan is not damaged. I probably thought that it fell in the pan. Maybe this is the reason why the plug was loose. I also pay close attention to stains in the driveway and the street. Luckily we have concrete, so easy to spot any oil leaks. In the end, I guess all the plugs are not that tight.

 

To keep your warranty, document your oil changes with receipts and a written record (maybe even pics).

 

Have fun locating 0w-8 other than the dealership The oil filter can even be purchased at some Walmarts now

other than that, it’s comparable to any other Toyota hybrid with the 2.5l engine

remove access cover, remove drain plug and oil filter. It’s practically next to each other

 

For Crown...Five quart jugs Mobil 1 0W-8 purchased yesterday Walmart $27.95/jug........ and

For HiHy/Rav.......Five quart jugs Mobil 1 0W-16 only $24.95/jug

Didn't stock much of above compared to stock for other viscosities, only one line on shelf = 4 units for each

 

Full disclaimer, I know squat about hybrids, never drove or opened the hood to one.

 

No one touches my Oil. DIY'ing my Oil for 37-years*. Friends have related too many horror stories about all the many variations on all the IDIOTIC things "mechanics" can do to ruin your day, your engine and your driveway from crazy oil-change mishaps!

*Except for 1991, when I allowed myself to be suckered by the Dealership into "free oil changes for life" when I bought my new Toyota Pick-up. They never said whose lifetime-- mine or the truck's. On the second "free" oil change, I checked right after-- he shorted me a full Qt. on a 4-Qt. system. That's a Dealership cheating me by 25% and who knows if the slob changed my filter? Never went back.

I employ genuine OEM Toyota Filters, change the OEM drain bolt Gasket each time, Mobile-1 Full Synthetic.

 

It's not rocket science, many vids, follow Scottie Kilmer on You Tube. A Haynes manual and $200 in tools, Harbor Freight is awesome, save your money. Hundreds of how-to vids out there.

 

Totally agree.

 

I've have had my oil changed at the dealership and at local gas stations in the past. They both presented an elaborate display of high end motor oil cans at their establishments. This gave the impression the customer was getting only the highest quality oil. When I changed the oil myself, I noticed an increase in gas mileage. Evidently, the engine was running smoother and thereby increasing mileage. I have a Solara, but I highly recommend changing the oil yourself regardless of which model you own. View attachment 426472

Yes I tend to trust myself over other people and it hasn't gotten any easier or better. Just read some of the horror stories I try and do all the maintenance possible I can....

 

Yes, take pictures, keep receipts, and keep files for the oil changes. Shops always show the best products in front of you, but the back is off-limits, with oil in 50-gallon + drums.

 

The last new truck I bought was in 1989, never went back for service because of the long drive.

I even fixed (what would have been) a warranty brake rotor machining job myself, to avoid making the two trips since I needed the car at home.

Forget about looking for the too-light 0W8 oil, it's not good for your car!

One of the things I like about buying used is avoiding any "free" service offers and warrany-related hassles.

My 2015 drain plug never had a washer but I bought it used and it hasn't leaked a drop in five years.

I did my own trans fluid change at 23k, nine quarts of Toyota fluid for peace of mind.

I replaced 1.5gal of the coolant with Toyota's extra long life coolant at around the same time, better early than late.

I use 10W30 instead of the recommended 0W20, it doesn't rattle upon start-up any more and the 10W30 is good down to zero F. I change the oil annually after each 4.5k miles and replace the Toyota filter every other time. The weather here doesn't go below 30F so the filter and the oil's "winter" weight are less critical.

 

Oil: Open Manual PDF, and search oil. it should list how much and what weight. Go to store and pick it up.
Filter: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/category/parts

For the powertrain warranty, just dump the cheapest spec oil you can buy at the Severe OCI and some toyota filters.
Done!

 

Oil: Open Manual PDF, and search oil. it should list how much and what weight. Go to store and pick it up.
Filter: https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/category/parts

For the powertrain warranty, just dump the cheapest spec oil you can buy at the Severe OCI and some toyota filters.
Done!

It's 0w-8 that is required, and not too many aftermarket choices that are readily available for regular hybrids.

Hybrid MAX is 0w-20, which you have plenty of choices.

And the filter is 90915-YZZN1

 

I change oil every 5 thousand miles not the 10 thousand they want to do at the dealer. My last 2 toyotas exceeded 200,000 miles. And still running after 17 years.The oil in your car is like the blood in your body. I don't care that today's oil is so advanced it's cheap peace of mind and the car care nut agrees.

 

Use the Viscosity of the oil that your manual says. Mobil 1 is always safe. Toyota filters are inexpensive so I just go with OEM. Toyota’s free services used to be a filter change every service but oil change every other. Check your manual to see if it’s still true! I want my oil changed every service. The first service I like to have done is at 1,000 miles, but I keep my toyotas 300,000 plus miles. Keep in mind Suggested services are made to get you past the warranty period. Check out THE CAR CARE NUT on line.

 

All possible I try and do my own work sadly you can trust very few today....... And if you personally can't do it yourself you may know someone and the two of you can do it together and you will both learn.....