The max weight for the roof of the HL I think is supposed to be 150#.
While these look better than stock, to a degree, I don't like the fact that they stick out past the mount points. I would think you could just order shorter bars?

I'll pass, until I need more than the hitch rack (500# cap) that I have enjoyed using so much.

 

With both the Rhino Rack and Thule you can get the crossbars that stick out to the edge of the roof, or that end flush with the risers. Here is the Rhino version they way you prefer

http://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/prod...ucts/roof-rack-parts/complete-roof-racks/vortex-rsp-black-2-bar-roof-rack_rsp31

It depends on what you are trying to carry. A wider crossbar will allow mounting of more stuff on the roof like bikes or kayaks because you can put the outer kayak or bike mounts outboard of the riser. It also provides a better lash point for things like canoes or ladders or any large bulky thing you might want to put up there. Like say you want to carry 8 bikes up there

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/Tour_de_France_2012_Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse_088.jpg

I'm leaning towards the wider crossbars because it will let me put a cargo box on one side and leave room for a bike on the other side. Or alternatively 2 or 3 kayaks. Of course that probably puts me way over the weight limit. But it wouldn't be the first time I've ever done that.

 

The other nice thing about the Thule racks is how integrated their fork mounted bike trays are. On top of that, the factory racks aren't completely flat/parallel with the ground and bow up towards the middle. Anything installed on factory racks tends to "lean" to one side or the other depending on the side you are mounted on.

The Thule, Yakima, Saris, Rocky Mounts, etc racks have flat bars, so anything mounted on them is as upright as it can be.

 

Large cross bars

Those are pretty large cross bars, I wonder how much noise they would make. We have the Ltd with the oem crossbars and the thing we like about them is just how quiet they are. we had another set on our other car, and what a racket it made, as well as how much it killed the mileage. We use the same car carrier on out Ltd and you have to look up once in a while just to make sure it's still there. Of course it is but it is just so quiet now which we love. Of course any ski carrier like the Thule you had a picture of is going to affect mileage negatively, out Inno only caused a loss of about 2 to 3 MPG but because it was so quiet we didn't mind at all.

 

Those are pretty large cross bars, I wonder how much noise they would make. We have the Ltd with the oem crossbars and the thing we like about them is just how quiet they are. we had another set on our other car, and what a racket it made, as well as how much it killed the mileage. We use the same car carrier on out Ltd and you have to look up once in a while just to make sure it's still there. Of course it is but it is just so quiet now which we love. Of course any ski carrier like the Thule you had a picture of is going to affect mileage negatively, out Inno only caused a loss of about 2 to 3 MPG but because it was so quiet we didn't mind at all.

Both the Thule and Rhino bars are aero/elliptical so they should be very quiet, as well. The round and square bars are the noise makers.

 

Does anyone know how to carry a canoe on a Highlander LE? I Will eventually be putting a tow hitch on the back, when a good one is available, but where would I tie it off in the front? Do you need to tie them off in the front and back? Any ideas?

 

Does anyone know how to carry a canoe on a Highland

No I haven't, but have on my truck w/cbars. Used rope to secure canoe (bottom side up) to cbars. Then..1 rope from canoe bow to front bumper. I rope from stern to rear tow receiver. Unlike HL, have more space between cbars on by truck. What/if any diff. that makes on HL, I don't know?

What ever you end up using to mount canoe on top of HL, would be wise to secure both ends. Get creative on front end. Rear end..Your still waiting on "good tow receiver", huh! :wink: Look for updates.

btw..I think we're off topic. In future, try new thread or maybe ok here, I D K ?

 

Feel free to tell me to use the search, but aside from the option to get some that extend beyond the roof rails, what deficiencies would one expect to overcome by going with aftermarket crossrails? Do they allow you to carry more weight? Genuinely curious.

 

I suspect that the weak link on all of these roof racks is the attachment point where the crossbars bolt into the Highlander roof. I'm not an engineer but just looking at it I expect that will be the first point of failure if you are overloading your rack. The crossbars themselves no matter what brand will all probably hold double or triple what the roof mounting points can withstand because that is were all the sheer pressure will be, especially if you are driving around on a rough road with a load on top that is bouncing around.

So all the crossbars on the market probably all have the same maximum capacity that is determined by the Highlander roof and not the crossbars themselves. So why buy something aftermarket? Probably mostly looks although having bars extend outwards of the mounting points will make it easier to carry wide loads up there like a wide box from Ikea or something. Also some of the aftermarket crossbars look perfectly flat whereas the OEM bars look like they are slightly bowed upwards which would make it less stable to carry something flat and would make it harder to lash a flat load down.

Another reason might be because some of the aftermarket crossbar systems may be more compatible with various attachments like kayak, ski, or bike mounts. I don't think this is really a problem but if, for example, you already have a whole bunch of Thule ski, bike, or kayak accessories you might get better fit if you are using their crossbars.

If all you want to do is mount a cargo box or ski rack (which is probably most of us) then I don't think it really matters.

 

For bikes in particular, unless you have a lot of bikes/+4, or some special reason, its silly to carry them on the roof vs a rear hitch rack. The benefits not having to deal with in unloading, parking in garages, wind resistance, fuel, reloading them after a nice long ride, possibly scratching the car/paint, far outweigh most reasons to put them on roof top.

I really can't come up with more reason....maybe having them out of way from getting rear ended/?. A number of hitch bike racks have a tube to extend further so you can tow what ever else you need with the bike rack in between.

I see canoes being great for roof racks, although I have seen rear cargo type racks work well for canoes as well.

So if it is just one thing you need at a time, I would opt for rear hitch rack.

Btw, the Rhino Rack looks very close to the OEM version. Too bad. I don't like the way the OEM looks at all. but surely form follows function.

 

TD..good pic. Reminds me of when I did same, but on my truck. Like u said..gotta get creative when doing front tie down & even rear end if no hitch. Nothing on front end or underneath HL for easy tie off. If tie down rope touchs paint anywhere, put a pad between. Tnx.

 

There seems to be a misconception that the weight limit is related to the bars, mounting points or hardware, roof construction, etc. it has nothing to do with any of these things. The rating is a dynamic weight rating and is related only to raising the center of gravity and thus safe handling. NO SYSTEM YOU INSTALL WILL EVER INCREASE THE RATING. Toyota and others do not even post the static ( standing still ) weight rating because they, logically, assume folks would not put anything on the racks unless they intend to move it. Static ratings would probably be in the 500-1000 lb. range. But the first time you went around a corner the HL would roll over !

This issue has been extensively investigated by the companies who make roof top tents. These guys are losing a lot of sales because people erroneously think their OEM crossbars won't support 100 lb tent box and a couple beefy adults. Even the HL crossbars could easily support this load.

 

They maybe losing sales to hitch cargo racks...which is often the better choice. Roof rack if you absolutely have to. All else a hitch bike carrier, and hitch cargo carrier do a superior job in most situations.

 

I have the Thule Aerobars on my Highlander (the ones that extend past the mounts). I can carry 3 kayaks on them. I got the ones that extend past the mounts because I like the ability to mount things in many locations. Also makes changing mounting brackets/carriers much easier since I don't have to disassemble the side mounts to change from a Kayak carrier to a canoe carrier or bike carrier (although I use my Yakima hitch mount for bikes).

These are the ones I have ... https://www.etrailer.com/multi-prod...&hhmake=Toyota&hhmodel=Highlander&hunter=roof&roofkit=1B,3,4,NB,7,8,9&manuf=TRS

They are very quiet .... no issues with the panoramic sunroof either.

 

I have the Rhino and they whistle quite a bit. So much so that I only put the cross bars on when I need to carry something. I contacted Rhino and at first they were attentive but then quit responding to me altogether.