well, you can get your pad and rotor anywhere, make sure they're pretty decent

it's pretty simple for the fronts (never done back)

I just jacked up car, removed wheel
Remove 2 bolts behind caliper (I think 17mm)
And slid the caliper off the rotor
My rotor was stuck, so i had to use a hammer and hit the inner part of the rotor (in between the lug screws) until it came loose (this was like in -5 degree weather)
It broke loose, and i removed the rotor
See if your rotor is still good, you can get away with just resurfacing them (which I did at checkers auto for 10 bucks each) because they were pretty much still good and wasn't thinning out yet
As for the pad, remove the pad, and use a C-Clamp to push the big O piston back down, then use some brake grease on the brake pins and put in new pads
Slide caliper back, and bolt on

Dont forget to bleed the brakes

 

^i dont think bleeding is necessary, someone correct me if i'm wrong

 

bleeding shouldn't be necessary if you didn't do anything to the brake line besides moving it out of the way

 

maybe he meant and I must put this in CAPS:

MAKE SURE YOU PUMP THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES BEFORE DRIVING / MOVING YOUR CAR!

:rockon:

 

What is the difference between bleeding and pumping the breaks? Im confused...

 

Bleeding the brakes means getting all the air out of the brake system once a hydraulic component has been opened. Since you really are not opening a hydraulic component in a routine brake job there is no need to bleed the brakes.

You will have to pump the brake pedal a few times before driving off. Before installing the new pads you will have to push the piston back in to the caliper as far as it will go, to allow enough space to install the new pads. As the pads wear down with age and use, the piston inside the caliper has to extend out further for the pads to reach the rotor and apply pressure. That is why you have to periodically add small amounts of brake fluid to the master cylinder; to take up the slack in the hydraulic system as the pads wear down. When you have pushed the piston all the way back in to the caliper to install the new pads, it will take several pumps of the pedal to push the piston back out far enough for the new pads to now reach the rotors. You may have to pump the pedal 4 or 5 times before you feel the pressure of the pads being pushed against the rotors. This is no big deal. Just pump it a few times before driving off and then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder.

Mike

 

It's in the Camry FAQ!

I recently added a post to the tail of it, detailing how to get the rotor off easily without throwing your shoulder out using a hammer!

Here's a direct link:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t92082.html

 

I was looking on Tire Rack and am considering the following rotors and brake pads:

Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads

Brembo Replacement Rotor
What do you guys think of this? The rotor is $45 each (totaling $90) and the pads are for $64. Good deal or no?

Should i go with it?

 

or maybe i want to invest in a better rotor? Although double the price of the other rotors...this one seems appealing..no?

PowerSlot Cryo-Treated Rotor

 

I have a Gen 2 so I don't have to worry about anti-lock brakes. You just squeeze the caliper open and go. However, if you have anti-lock brakes I understand that back pressure like that can damage the guts of the anti-lock system. I heard that you can open the bleeder valve and sacrifice the brake fluid in the caliper (it goes out into a container or on the floor instead of back up into the master cylinder) or you can hook a machine up to the system to control the valves.

Do Toyota anti-lock brakes require a special procedure?

Kep

 

Hawk peroformance pads are very nice. My XLE v6 came from the factory with basically Akebono Ceramics, and i just got those again. Very nice. On light driving they had lasted 7 years....75K.

Brembo rotors are the way to go, but its not really necessary to get such nice rotors. Totally up to you and your budget.

 

I'm Bleeding

OK - think about this: PLEASE READ

The brake fluid has been captive in that system for years and is picking up moister (#1 killer or brake system) and debris from the deterioation of fluid, hoses, seals and pistons.

It is Highly recommended to bleed the system yearly to keep it healthy.
As mentioned, it is not a good idea to force all that crap back into the master cylinder as it can lead to master cylinder failure.

That being said you can take a functional system and ruin it by shoving the old worn out master cylinder to the floor during the 2 man manual bleed process. Or forcing the nasty old fluid back into the reservoir Why?

Because the system has not seen the full length of travel (master being pushed to the FLOOR COMPLETELY) and the sediment at the end of the bore gets trapped in the rubber piston. No it dosen't fail immediatily, but it may cause the master cyl to fail shortly there after the brake job is completed (month). Does this make sense?

Most DIY do not bleed the system and if you have never done it before, have a proffesional do it!
If you plan to do it, you will need a helper. Also - although faster, it is not required to push the cylinder completely to the floor (no mans land for all the sediment). This will take longer, but unless you plan on returning, resist the temptation to push it to the floor during bleeding or you will be returning to replace the master cylinder.

If your cylinder is new, no worries - push it down all the way. Or you can pressure bleed by forcing the fluid through the system (special hardware required) and cracking each wheel bleed to get the new fluid through the system and displace all the air and sediment.

Thats why the boys at Les Schwabies give you the high bill. That can't afford to take the risk of having a system failure, so they go the safe route and replace the master cyl, calipers and wheel cylinders (if not 4 wheel disc).

PS - A NEW MASTER CYLINDER IS CHEAP INSURANCE!

Nice Book Eh? SAFETY is Must and I hope this helps.....

EDIT: One last thing - before those of you with deep pockets go out and buy the cross drilled rotors, DO LOTS OF READING and look for key words like "Cracks"/"Warp" ect. Yes, they look Kool but most are not meant for street use where they DO NOT GET INPECTED REGULARLY!

/Randy

 

One thing to remember.

Before you press the pistons back into the caliper bores, check the dust boots for tears or cracks.

If there are cracks or tears, pull the boots away from the caliper and inspect the pistons for dirt and grime, and wipe around them with a clean rag damped with brake fluid to clean them off. This avoids you having stuck pistons and dragging brakes that lead to all kinds of problems and expences later on.

I do this cleaning even if the boots are good just for peace of mind.

 

well, you can get your pad and rotor anywhere, make sure they're pretty decent

it's pretty simple for the fronts (never done back)

I just jacked up car, removed wheel
Remove 2 bolts behind caliper (I think 17mm)
And slid the caliper off the rotor
My rotor was stuck, so i had to use a hammer and hit the inner part of the rotor (in between the lug screws) until it came loose (this was like in -5 degree weather)
It broke loose, and i removed the rotor
See if your rotor is still good, you can get away with just resurfacing them (which I did at checkers auto for 10 bucks each) because they were pretty much still good and wasn't thinning out yet
As for the pad, remove the pad, and use a C-Clamp to push the big O piston back down, then use some brake grease on the brake pins and put in new pads
Slide caliper back, and bolt on

Dont forget to bleed the brakes

I chickened out and brought the stuff to the mechanic to do. He replaced the pads for me, and resrufeced the rotors. The rotors were still pretty messed up.

My new rotors came in just yesterday. Will i still need a C-clamp and stuff? Also...what are the tools that i need to do this front rotors replacement job, and approx how much time should it take?

 

no c clamp necessary but you're gunna neeed to take off the caliper and the metal brace around the caliper to free the disc. mmm for me, a rubber mallot and a socket wrench with 2 socket sizes was enough for me to do the job.

about 5-10 minutes per wheel if you know what you're doing.

always double check what you have done and pay attention to how you took it off.
For your new rotors before you put them on and stuff, drench in brake degreaser to get off any of the grease that maybe on the rotor. I've watched midas do this withnew brakes to get rid of some of the packaging grease etc.

 

no c clamp necessary but you're gunna neeed to take off the caliper and the metal brace around the caliper to free the disc. mmm for me, a rubber mallot and a socket wrench with 2 socket sizes was enough for me to do the job.

about 5-10 minutes per wheel if you know what you're doing.

always double check what you have done and pay attention to how you took it off.
For your new rotors before you put them on and stuff, drench in brake degreaser to get off any of the grease that maybe on the rotor. I've watched midas do this withnew brakes to get rid of some of the packaging grease etc.

ok...is taking the metal brace around the caliper and the caliper itself off the disc easy/common sense? If not how do i do that?

will a slide/adjustable wrench work?

what is this with the braake degreaser? Is it something i can get at say...AutoZone?

 

its pretty common sense to me...but i like cars...and i tend to be OK with working on em. hehe

adjustable wrench may not fit if i recall. And if it has never been removed, a good amount of force will more than likely need to be applied to get it off. be very careful no to strip the nuts.

yes brake degreaser is sold at autozone, any brand usually works just fine. do not spray it onto the brake pad/caliper where the shops have applied grease, that grease is important!
and do not buy engine degreaser etc...it has to be for brakes.

 

I dont think brake cleaner is hard to find, any parts shop, kmary wal mart... etc will have it.

C clamp, or caliper spreader will be needed, new rotor is thicker.

slide/adjustable wrench does not work

 

oh...yeah it will be thicker.

if you dont have a c-clamp you can use channel locks.

 

oh...yeah it will be thicker.

if you dont have a c-clamp you can use channel locks.

Okay...things to buy:

• C-clamp (Home depot)
• socket wrench (home depot?) --> is there any specifications on the socket wrench?
• Brake degreaser (Autozone)

Anything I'm Missing?

 

one word: STOP


and then go pick up a haynes manual and read through it CAREFEULLY while looking at the pictures.

at this moment, it sounds as though you don't even know how the braking system works...but don't be afraid....but you DO need a manual. go get one.

 

lol not a bad suggestion but it is sort of common sense?

hmm i could scan and send him the pages he needs...

and uhm get a toolkit from autozone, they arent expensive and they will come in handy in the future!

 

AlBaraa
have you looked at the FSM's attached to the sticky?

 

one word: STOP


and then go pick up a haynes manual and read through it CAREFEULLY while looking at the pictures.

at this moment, it sounds as though you don't even know how the braking system works...but don't be afraid....but you DO need a manual. go get one.

yeah, reading thru the manual reallyhelps alot.

 

lol not a bad suggestion but it is sort of common sense?

hmm i could scan and send him the pages he needs...

and uhm get a toolkit from autozone, they arent expensive and they will come in handy in the future!

That would be GREAT! can you do that please?

AlBaraa
have you looked at the FSM's attached to the sticky?

Im sorry....im a newb...what is FSM?