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DIY: How to install front control arms (98-02 Corolla)

23K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  dmx  
#1 · (Edited)
The rubber bushings on these were worn out so much that I kept hearing a clunk on the first time I hit the brakes in the morning and going over railroad ties was unsettling. Not only just noise and comfort issues, but I was losing the crisp turn in handling I remember this car was capable of everytime I made a sharp corner. Getting new front control arms fixed all these issues.


Tools needed:
19MM socket wrench
17MM socket wrench
12MM socket wrench
14MM socket wrench
Allen wrench
Prybar
Jackstands
Wheel Chock

Instructions:

1) Remove wheel and jack up the whole front end of the car on jackstands so you relieve pressure off the front sway bar on both sides. Be sure to chock the wheels.

2) Use your 17MM wrench to remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the control arm here to detach the ball joint. Use the prybar to separate the ball joint from the control arm.



3) Remove the end links between the sway bar and the control arm. You may have to use the Allen wrench to hold the bolt in the center of the nut if it spins on you.



4) Remove the front pivot bolt on the control arm using a 19MM wrench. Note that this is on a manual transmission car so the bolt comes out easy. If this was an automatic, you would need to put a block of wood under the transmission then carefully jack up the block of wood with a floor jack to make clearance for the bolt.



5) Remove the brackets holding the sway bar on the side of the control arm that you're working on.



6) The sway bar bracket should drop and you can carefully yank out the old control arm by rocking back and forth.



7) Here you see the old arm and new arm. Check out the old rubber bushing making the clunking noise and bad handling.







8) Put the new control arm in and reverse the steps to install. Tip: you will want to put the pivot bolt in first and then install the control arm as straight as you can so you don't have to fight the position for the bolt angle when installing the control arm into the sway bar bracket. If you hear clunking, you may have to retighten the bolts as the arm settles once the car is off the jackstands.


That's it! You can repeat for the control arm on the other side. We don't need an alignment because we didn't disconnect the struts or the tie rod to the steering rack. So enjoy your refreshed handling Corolla!
 
#2 ·
Nice write up, I actually came here looking for torque specs. But they seem hard to find so far looking through the bible sized service manual I found,

Rear Front Control Arm Bushing Bolt - 175 nm / 129ft-lbs

Front Inner Control Arm Bolt - 215nm / 158 ft-lbs



Haven't found any torque specs in the OEM service manual for the outer ball joint or 3 nuts attaching it to the control arm yet.



Also if I can add a couple things, you can jack up the suspension to get it closer to a level "resting" position before torque'ing if you have the right tools. Some cars you need to do that I don't know about these corollas.




Also wandering on the highway can be control arms too.
 
#6 ·
Nice write up, I actually came here looking for torque specs. But they seem hard to find so far looking through the bible sized service manual I found,

Rear Front Control Arm Bushing Bolt - 175 nm / 129ft-lbs

Front Inner Control Arm Bolt - 215nm / 158 ft-lbs



Haven't found any torque specs in the OEM service manual for the outer ball joint or 3 nuts attaching it to the control arm yet.


Also if I can add a couple things, you can jack up the suspension to get it closer to a level "resting" position before torque'ing if you have the right tools. Some cars you need to do that I don't know about these corollas.




Also wandering on the highway can be control arms too.

Just did the struts on our '05 Scion tC. Guessing that if they aren't same, then they are pretty darn close.
Lower Control Arm (to ball joint): 66 ft-lbs
Stabilizer Link: 55 ft-lbs
 
#4 ·
In step #4 he mentions about supporting the transmission and raising it up with a jack to get clearance.

See below:

4) Remove the front pivot bolt on the control arm using a 19MM wrench. Note that this is on a manual transmission car so the bolt comes out easy. If this was an automatic, you would need to put a block of wood under the transmission then carefully jack up the block of wood with a floor jack to make clearance for the bolt.
 
#5 ·
I have to do this aswell but just look very carefully and when your raising it up to make sure you don't pitch any wires, lines, connections, etc. I would assume you would have to disconnect an engine mount or a few. I'm going to change mine at the same time anyway, you only need about an inch or so to sneak the bolt out.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I tried every position without denting the transmission pan and I couldn’t get it to drop enough. I ended up removing transmission mount and at first sight I thought really no way to sort of loosen the transmission mount with the L bracket. That in itself is it’s own set of problem especially removing the two 14mm on the wall. That was hell reaching it from underneath and above.

Not until I removed and bought a replacement (it needed to be replaced) did I realize...you just had to remove the bolt that goes through the center of the rubber cylinder. And that bolt is easier to install by raising the transmission up or down to line it against the holding bracket.