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DIY - Rear Sway Bar

39K views 137 replies 47 participants last post by  Bmr4life  
#1 · (Edited)
Tools needed : 12 and 14 MM sockets, 1'-2' prybar, torque wrench.

I replaced mine with the Ultra Racing Bar in my driveway. No Jacks or wheel removal needed. note: On a lowered Camry or an SE model, it may be necessary to use jack stands for working clearance and sway bar removal/reinstallation.

1. Remove the link nut on each end and then the two bracket bolts on each side.

2. Pull off the brackets and split bushings from the old bar.

3. Snake the bar out of the maze to the front of the rear drivers side tire. I was able to do it without removing the exhaust pipe hanger/absorber.

4. Get the new bar in place from in front of the rear drivers side tire.

5. Grease the inside of the split bushings on each side, slip over the bar and attach the brackets with two bolts on each side.

6. Install link nut on one side.

7. I had to use a bar to pull down the sway bar to put the link bolt through the sway bar. Put on Nut.

8. Torque bracket bolts to 23 ftlbs and link nuts to 29 ftlbs.

9. Total time about 45 minutes + some picture time...........



Pics: Click to Enlarge...........

New and Old Bars: 19MM bar weighs about 9 lbs, 16 MM stock bar weighs about 4 lbs.








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#4 · (Edited)
I feel the same but I'll check the car's handling on the way to golf in the morning.
 
#6 ·
I finished the installation with a few raindrops falling. First rain in 41 days.
 
#7 ·
Anyone know the thickness of the SE rear sway bar? I wonder if it's worth it to change to the 19mm if the SE one is thicker then 16mm already.
 
#8 ·
The SE rear bar has a different part number and costs more so I'm guessing it is larger but i don't have one to measure.
 
#13 ·
Noticed a tighter feeling on the first slow speed 90's this morning and it really feels great/flatter on sweeping curves at 40-60 mph.

I'm happy with the performance.

It would be great for autocrossing.
 
#17 ·
I was considering something like this for my wife's 07 LE.

The situation I had was when I would drive on the freeway there would be a curve with the road diping down and going up, it would feel like the car was going to float off to the side. I ended up installing the SE springs on the car and that made it feel better.
She also complained that she felt the bumps more than before."OOPS"
she has got used to the new springs by now.

I'm probably going to give this a shot as well.
 
#18 ·
Hey all,

I just installed my rsb. It went in faithfully except for two main issues. The brackets I received did no fit the vehicle. The vehicle’s oem rsb bushing bracket is bent; the one that I received was flat. So I just used the new bushing in the old bracket. Secondly, the sway bar end link nuts do not thread all the way through, which worries me a lot. Apparently the hole drilled on my RSB doesn’t allow the bolt thread in all the way. Comments welcomed from those who have installed one…
 
#20 · (Edited)
Hey all,

I just installed my rsb. It went in faithfully except for two main issues. The brackets I received did no fit the vehicle. The vehicle’s oem rsb bushing bracket is bent; the one that I received was flat. So I just used the new bushing in the old bracket. Secondly, the sway bar end link nuts do not thread all the way through, which worries me a lot. Apparently the hole drilled on my RSB doesn’t allow the bolt thread in all the way. Comments welcomed from those who have installed one…
The OEM brackets have a positioning tab which I guess that what you are talking about. The flat brackets fit fine.

Have no idea what you are talking about on the end link nuts/holes.......mine installed fine.
 
#22 ·
Do you mean the hole is not big enough in diameter?

I bought mine from Mbarton also.

They should be made in a jig and all be identical.
 
#23 ·
It sounds like either you don't have the bar centered on the brackets or you're just being picky. Of course the bolt is not going to be engaged on all of its threads, there's a piece of metal between it. If the nut tightens down properly then there is no problem; if the bolt doesn't extend far enough to even start tightening the nut, try re-centering the bar in the brackets.
 
#25 ·
Ultra Racing needs some tweaking.

I know what Coontai means. Check out the picture. I thought the same thing. But I just torqued the four bracket bolts (yes, OEM are at an angle, but when I bolted the flat UR brackets on, it 'naturally' bent, it's fine) to 23 lb-ft. and and the end-link nuts to 29 lb-ft. and all's well.

Image
 
#28 ·
I have just installed the Whiteline front strut bar and rear sway, took it out for a 45 min drive and definitely noticed a difference. Mainly, on the same turns and at the same speeds, there is less "g-force's" acting on your body; less need to "brace" myself for the turns, as njerald said.

Also, it could just be me, but during hard acceleration now, the car feels more "stable" and more planted. I doubt just a strut bar could stiffen up the front end that much...so it's probably my imagination...

Purchased both from mbarton, he responded fast, shipped quickly, and very well packed with cardboard, shrinkwrap, and bubble wrap. He even took the time to enlarge the holes for the front strut bar (US Camry model.)
 
#30 · (Edited)
Thanks njerald for the DIY. I just installed the Ultra Racing STB and RSB on my 2007 SE V6.

First off, I drove the car for about 3 days with just the STB. The car handled slightly better, but the difference wasn't amazing. I primarily saw a difference when going over speedbumps because the car's front end was more flat. Around corners, the situation was very odd. While understeer seemed better, it really wasn't. The tires ended up lifting in a somewhat odd and unusual way that made the car's handling less predictable.

Just yesterday I installed the RSB. FYI to everyone, if you have a 6th gen SE, the brackets that come with the RSB will not work because there is a slight bend to them that will not allow you to bolt the bracket into the car. I used the UR bushings, but the stock Toyota bracket and everything seems to be great.

In regards to the STB and the RSB together... All I can say is WOW!!!!! Every aspect of the handling and stability of the car is better in both straight-line performance as well as when cornering. Wheel hop has been reduced greatly to very manageable levels, torque steer is almost non-existant (at least in the few straight line tests I tried this morning), and stability is just incredible. I am still using the stock 17" wheels and at the stock ride height so I am sure that lowering the car and getting slightly wider tires would help immensely.

The only annoying, but understandable, problem that I have now is that when I take a hard turn, the engine seems to bog down a little because the power seems to be applied much better. Maybe if I drive it in manumatic mode and hold a lower gear...

All I can say is that anyone looking for an major improvement in handling needs to get the STB and RSB. It is the best $370 I have spent on my car so far.
 
#40 ·
Thanks njerald for the DIY. I just installed the Ultra Racing STB and RSB on my 2007 SE V6.

First off, I drove the car for about 3 days with just the STB. The car handled slightly better, but the difference wasn't amazing. I primarily saw a difference when going over speedbumps because the car's front end was more flat. Around corners, the situation was very odd. While understeer seemed better, it really wasn't. The tires ended up lifting in a somewhat odd and unusual way that made the car's handling less predictable.

Just yesterday I installed the RSB. FYI to everyone, if you have a 6th gen SE, the brackets that come with the RSB will not work because there is a slight bend to them that will not allow you to bolt the bracket into the car. I used the UR bushings, but the stock Toyota bracket and everything seems to be great.

In regards to the STB and the RSB together... All I can say is WOW!!!!! Every aspect of the handling and stability of the car is better in both straight-line performance as well as when cornering. Wheel hop has been reduced greatly to very manageable levels, torque steer is almost non-existant (at least in the few straight line tests I tried this morning), and stability is just incredible. I am still using the stock 17" wheels and at the stock ride height so I am sure that lowering the car and getting slightly wider tires would help immensely.

The only annoying, but understandable, problem that I have now is that when I take a hard turn, the engine seems to bog down a little because the power seems to be applied much better. Maybe if I drive it in manumatic mode and hold a lower gear...

All I can say is that anyone looking for an major improvement in handling needs to get the STB and RSB. It is the best $370 I have spent on my car so far.
Did you happen to measure the factory RSB from your SE to see if it is smaller than the UR RSB? Thanks for any info that you can provide.

-Ryan
 
#31 ·
Thanks.

My bushings started squeaking going over speed bumps last month and I sprayed the bushings with silicone lube while I was putting on my winter tires.

The squeaking is back so I will take the bushing brackets off this week and lube the split bushings well with a teflon grease that I have.

Should have done that when I installed it originally......
 
#33 ·
The ride does get a little more rough when you are on rough roads with the RSB and STB installed. I prefer this ride quality over the stock because the car overall feels much more secure and predictable. On relatively smooth roads, I actually think the car is much smoother than with stock SE suspension.

I don't see how it would void the warranty. As long as they are installed properly, you should be fine.