Not sure you need to set the IAC as I believe there's not adjustment.

It will not hurt to check TPS adjustment.

 

There is some adjustment here under the iac valve.

 

Assuming the part you get from the junkyard is working correctly, no adjustment is needed. IACV is notorious for getting clogged up on these cars, so YMMV with the junkyard part.
Same goes for TPS.
Why are you replacing it in the first place?

 

From experience on a chevrolet truck aluminum intake corroding at the coolant port and breaking off in big pieces around the bolt hole causing too much external loss of coolant daily.

A salvage yard had an all you can carry day, so I decided that although there are no close bolt holes to coolant ports on the 5sfe throttle body , there is still coolant running in it.

Then during a rear main seal replacement, I swapped the salvage yard throttle body on. Now I have a power loss in all gears except first gear, that occurs most often around 1800 rpm and most notable in 2nd gear.

Im not sure where I messed up in the rear main seal project

 

If the Camry is a '96 - check behind the dash coin tray to see if there is an OBDII port to hookup a diagnostic scanner.

 

It has a 401 egr insufficient code and thats it. Also running around 14 rich long term. The load is 31 to 32 operating temp idle. Throttle position is 12.2 at operating temperature idle

 

Props for doing the main seal replacement, that's not an easy DIY repair to do.

If here, I'd start w/ the basics - reviewing my previous work, vacuum hose inspection for condition: and verifying correct placement using the routing diagram under the hood. * Dunno if the (auto) trans has a vacuum hose(s) attached on your year to help w/ or determine shift points - that's another (possible) item I'd research / check.

 

Thanks. I dropped the subframe and installed all new suspension too. The old rear main didnt look too bad.

Dont think it has a vacuum hose on the a140e for my year 5sfe. It does have what I think is throttle cable which is adjusted to about .06 rubber stopper extension. Im currently replacing vacuum hoses, doing the evap hoses next.

List of new parts
Has new spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, distributor cap and rotor, alternator pigtail (lowered cold idle rpm from 1500 to 1250),upstream o2 sensor, egr vsv, egr modulator, egr valve, egr vacuum hoses, pcv valve, 170 thermostat, oil pressure sending unit, fuses, tires, front and rear suspension, front brakes, front and rear wheel bearings, cv axles, rack and pinion, inner and outer tie rods, ecm
Everything was defective thats why it was replaced.


A Used igniter was swapped on, maybe its defective

Alternator sometimes only charges 13.8 on days and 14.2 on other days, also have a .115 voltage drop on alternator positive cable. The battery voltage on the next day is 12.4

The new cv axles have tone rings whereas the stock axles did not, not sure if they are rubbing or not.

Car barely pulls to the right both the same amount with brakes applied and without brakes applied, it has new suspension , alignment, brake pads, brake calipers, brake rotors, wheel bearings, not sure if rotors are catching the backing plate or calipers sticking, or needs a master cylinder.

There is some hissing behind steering wheel that gets worse when turning steering wheel to the left not sure if its the new rack and pinion or brake booster.

as far as the new fuel injector orings, I only replaced two orings not all four , and the new orings are considerably thinner than the old ones, not sure if thats causing a fuel leak or not, its running 14 %rich long term

When the car engine is cold, it starts up fast but when the engine is warm , it turns over longer before it starts

My vacuum reading slowly fluctuates between 20 and 20.5 inhg. When the fans come on the vacuum reading quickly fluctuates so fast you cant read it between 18 and 20.5 hg

 

I'd pull the axles and knock off those ABS tone rings - they can't be helping the suspension situation, if they are rubbing on the spindle.

A 'hiss' is one of the signs of a vacuum booster leak, tip: disconnect the rubber hose @ the Intake Manifold leading to the Brake booster piping along the back firewall, plug the port: and see if the vacuum stabilizes. ... That hose was dry-cracked on the '00 here / replaced awhile ago, just FYI.

I'd also be checking those radiator fans: visually inspecting the motors for rust / condition, making sure the blades are turning freely, etc. A voltmeter hooked up to the battery, when the fans are running ( A/C ), may help show if there is excessive (amperage) draw / a failing fan motor.

Cleaning up primary electrical (battery posts, clamps, ground points where the Negative cable connects to frame & motor) in addition to the fan harness ground ( left side of radiator, midpoint down, IIRC ) to ensure good grounding may also help. ... Couldn't hurt, in any case.

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Hard start when engine is warm / at operating temp. may well be those replacement O-rings on the injectors, vapor and/or air lock -is- a symptom of hard start when motor warm: but tough to say. * You know your motor best, if you think it's a potential cause of issue: may want to source the correct o-rings from Toyota, and eliminate those as a potential cause of hard start and/or vacuum leak. Hope the feedback helps.

 

Thanks.

 

does complete throttle body unit swap require resetting the tps and iac valve

No, but expect it to have to relearn the idle. Just removed and cleaned out the IAC and throttle body last weekend and it took a while. BTW, those bolts that hold in the IAC mine were rusted in. Destroyed them in the removal process so have some M5-.8 16mm replacements handy. I used stainless steel bolts that have an allen key in them for easy removal next time.

 

The m5 bolts were on my to do list. Also a impact screwdriver to remove the old bolts as mine are stuck too. Is that how you removed your bolts

 

The m5 bolts were on my to do list. Also a impact screwdriver to remove the old bolts as mine are stuck too. Is that how you removed your bolts

 

I didn't have my impact screwdriver handy, yes I would have tried it if I had it. Still would not have reused the old bolts. One bolt would have still needed the pipe wrench or channel locks.