Greetings
2007 Avalon...90K...no issues, just a question...

I do a reasonable amount of mountain driving that include several 800+/- elevation changes from top to bottom. When I round the 180º switchback to start the downside trip, I manually shift to 3rd and let transmission drag maintain about a 40-45 MPH downhill velocity. There are also switch backs at the bottom...but only about 90º turns. I may make 3 brake applications before the low-end curves.

In other situations where I have a lot of advanced (visual) notice of an impending traffic slow down, I will downshift as well. Often I can avoid breaking completely.

Let's hear it folks! I'm looking for answers with sound reasoning that back-up the recommendation. If I still had my '69, '71. 73', '78 or '89 corollas or coronas, I would not be
View attachment 456778 posting this... yes, I still have the plate...sadly not the car.

THANK YOU !!

I don’t downshift to save wear on my brakes.
I’m pretty good at DIY brake work (been doing it for over 50 years). Repairing tranny synchros ? not so much

 

The only time this is really necessary is at steep inclines for extended periods, when brake fade becomes a problem. The mountains have runaway truck ramps because brakes have a limited capacity for heat, and if they get too hot they lose braking force, and rotors are more liable to warp.

If you're heading down a mountain, it's a good idea to engine brake, but be mindful of RPM going too high as it translates to engine & transmission wear and heat. If your transmission doesn't shift well, it's not a good idea.

 

Thank you...I watch the tach...keep it below about 4300. Watch temp too...although not marked in degrees, temp never goes above "normal" or "usual driving temperature...shows at mid point (9:00) position on gauge dial

 

You're doing it the right way by anticipating and downshifting BEFORE you build up speed. When you approach the top of the hill, back off the accelerator such that you lose some of your momentum, then downshift, then coast down the hill in the lower gear, only applying the brake when it's necessary.

Downshifting after the car has already started down hill and sped up, such that you get a big RPM spike when you shift -- that's what puts extra wear and tear on the transmission clutches. RPMs gradually rising as you go down the hill in a lower gear doesn't hurt anything as long as you aren't red lining.

If you're driving in the mountains regularly, you need to be engine braking on long grades or you're going to be replacing warped rotors every time you turn around. I've lived in the mountains for 20+ years, and I warped a couple of sets of rotors early on before I learned the right way to descend long grades.

 

I maintain 3rd & 2nd on mountain downhill and rarely have to brake. Mine is 6 speed.

 

I downshift as well during the infrequent times that I'm traveling in the mountains. I keep it in manual mode and adjust up and down as necessary. I'll hit the brakes to make sure the RPMs either aren't too high or are suitable for downshifting. Growing up on a stick shift, this is as close as I get to a manual these days.