If you have a lift, then maybe.

I've always just pulled them out the top and had no problems.

 

Yes, it's easier and faster to unbolt the sub-frame/cradle, but like Chris mentions, you need a lift or some other way to raise the car to do this (without having the car topple over from most of it's front end weight being gone when you lift it). Best way is to take the engine an trans out from the top.

 

If you only want to replace the rear main seal on the engine, then you can just drop the transmission out and leave engine in the car.

There are more than a few videos on removing transmissions from under the car.

This eliminates the need to disconnect exhaust, fuel and electrics from engine.

If you want to do the timing belt or other engine repairs then yes, I would pull both engine and trans as one unit up from the top, not try to drop both out the bottom.

 

If you only want to replace the rear main seal on the engine, then you can just drop the transmission out and leave engine in the car.

Yeah,that's all i wanna do.Can the trans be unbolted and slid out some towards the drivers side or does it need to come out completely?

 

you'll have to completely remove the trans to be able to disconnect the flexplate. Theres not enough room to slide the trans off the side to get to the bolts.

You can drop the drivers side of the subframe, tilting it down, and remove the entire shock assembly to remove the transmission though.

For re-assembly, you may need an engine hoist to help you lift the transmission back up onto the dowl pins though

 

Like Perkins said the transmission needs to be removed, so axles pulled, to give you access to the rear main seal.
But a lot less work than pulling the engine as well.

I would recommend renting a transmission floor jack for removal and re-installation of transmission, the cradle style lowers the transmission farther so body doesn't need to be jacked up as high, you can buy a transmission adapter for most regular floor jacks.
Also an ATV jack can be used, if you know someone who has one

 

The Toyota recommendation is to pull the engine entirely with the transmission from the top of the engine bay for later replacing the rear main seal. The reason for this is if you remove the trans which is a lower and drop of the trans from under the car, any work you are doing on the engine itself is not safe because of slip and possible falling on the operator working on the engine.

Best bet, do the extra work, don't cut corners and be safe! Engine and trans you can replace. Car you can replace, you can't be.

 

Yes, why charge for 6hrs labor when you can charge for 20 hours.

I am all for safety but Toyota's recommendation on this is a bit over the top, i.e. changing a flat tire by towing car to shop, support car at 4 points on lift, remove flat tire, use mobile lift to transfer wheel/tire for repair(no back strain).
Yes, much safer, but.................seems kind of silly, UNLESS you are charging for time, then it makes perfect sense, and you have safety on your side,

With transmission removed engine is still supported by 2 motor mounts and "dogbone" mount.
I would support the rear of the engine, but to relieve stress on the "dogbone" and make it easier re-install the transmission.

And be safe.

 

So, lower dr. side subframe,shock assy,slide trans out? This is the quickest,easiest way then?

 

Its always been easier for me to just pull the engine myself. Takes 3-4 hours to pull 3-4 hours to put it in. Either way you do it, its going to suck

 

Agreed. Trying to line up the transmission while holding it either above your head or while bending over the fender/bumper and picking it up sucks reallllllly hard.
I did it twice, and ever since I've just pulled the engine.
The first time might take you a bit longer to pull the engine, but putting it back in is pretty simple.

Either way, when you get to the seal, I would remove the retainer as well. A new RMS kit will come with both seal and gasket, and it's much easier to replace the RMS with the retainer out.

 

Trans can be unbolted from engine in bay? Guess i'll do it this way then.One more question, is the main seal easy to get to,or do i have to remove oil pan?

 

Yes it can be unbolted and removed with engine left in vehicle, transmission shops do it all the time.

No you do not need to remove the oil pan or even loosen it.
You can just remove the old seal with a flat blade screw driver, being careful not to scratch the crankshaft!!
I often use a small drill bit to drill two or three holes around the metal part of the old seal and then put in screws to either pull out the seal or if screws have flat tips just screw them in and seal will be pushed out.
Clean things up and re-install the new seal.
Or you can remove the "oil seal retainer", it is a flat metal plate that holds the seal, you will need to remove a few of the oil pan bolts for this, and you will need a new oil seal retainer gasket.

This video describes it pretty well, its a Toyota Tercel but same method is used for Camry.

 

I went out and bought a seal puller from Canadian Tire years back.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=358&division=1&category=7

Think it was less than 20$. But, I don't know if they sell them anymore. Seeing as the OP is in the US, I'm pretty sure a local automotive place will sell them. It's used if you want to leave the bearing carrier in place, instead of using a screwdriver.

Just double check that you've disconnected anything that will keep the trans from separating. Wire harness, brackets, ground wires, hoses, etc...

 

Lining up and putting transmissions back wasn't really an issue for me. I kept a ton of scissor jacks from old cars I had scrapped (I probably have over 10 of them now). I use them to lift engines and transmissions into place, adjust placement. Bit of 3/4" plywood, scissor jacks at the corners, and I can raise, lower, and adjust angle. Long an drawn out process. But, when you're working on your own at home, you got to get creative.

 

I pulled mine from the bottom because I was being cheap, and it worked fine, but was far more work than it should have been.

Next time I'm buying an engine hoist and pulling engine and trans out the top.