Jack up and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the wheel, remove the 12mm bolt which holds the brake hose and abs wire to strut, remove the 10mm bolt at the fender well which holds the abs wiring, for extra room so you won’t break the wiring. Remove the 14mm nut for the sway bar link, pb blaster may be necessary if rusted, let it soak ahead of time. Remove the 2 -7/8 nuts and bolts from the lower strut mounting area. Be careful to not move the axle and knuckle out so far you dislocate the inner cv joint from the axle housing, this is why some people remove the axle but, it’s not necessary. Remove the 3 upper 14mm nuts from the upper mount under the hood, leave one attached but loose so the strut doesn’t fall and damage the cv bolt or wiring and brake hose. Then carefully hold the strut with one hand while removing the last finger tight upper mount nut and remove the strut. Tie rod removal is not necessary. The fastener sizes I listed are the tool size required, not the thread size.

 

Thanks. I'll let you know the results when done.

Peter

 

Just did these yesterday with the sway bar links and bushings. I had more trouble removing/installing the links and bushing than I did the struts. No need to touch the tie rods.
For anyone who may check this in the future:
Torques:
22mm bolts on strut/axle = 156 ft/lbs
15mm bolts on strut mounting plate = 59 ft/lbs
Front sway bar links 15mm bolts = 29 ft/lbs (you're gonna need a 14mm wrench to hold the back of these while you remove the bolt and a tire iron to move the sway bar up when connecting to this bolt on it's back side)
Front sway bar bushings 12mm bolts = don't bother there is no room for a ratchet but it is 168 inch/lbs (save yourself some swearing and get the 12mm ratcheting wrench)
Bolt holding brake/ABS lines 12mm bolt = just tighten

I lubed up all those bolts over night with a combo of 1:1 acetone + Automatic Transmission Fluid and then some PB Blaster the next morning. The 22mm were the easiest to remove, the sway bar links caused me a lot of grief.

 

axle nut, tie rod end... why, that's stupid, other then the main mounting points the only thing you HAVE TO undo is the sway bar links and where the abs brake line/wires attach to the inner fender so you don't break a wire, learned that the hard way, also make sure and a small hydraulic or scissor jack underneath the brake rotor hub so you can lower the control arm and limit it's drop. 2nd gen avalon struts are stupid easy to change as long as you don't do anything dumb like let the control arm and brake caliber just fall unsupported, the hardest part of the job is trying to push the new strut up into position and start threading the nuts when you are by yourself and on the rear it's getting the eam back seat out, other then that the job is easy peasy....