87 is just fine. Some people here have claimed that higher octane or non-ethanol make it feel better, but I can’t vouch for that. Ive tried higher octanes, it felt absolutely no different to me.

 

High Octane like 93 V-Power will make a slight difference if you have modified high airflow intake and exhaust.The engine is under heavy load and high RPM.

 

But remember, with the Atkinson cycle, the intake valve is slightly open during the compression stroke, to reduce compression losses, so that 13.0 compression is actually lower to where 87 aki doesn't knock

 

The hybrid uses Atkinson cycle, the M20A does not.

 

91 pump octane is absolutely perfect for it.

 

If I only use 87 in my Hatch the engine sometimes hesitates in stop and go traffic. Very annoying so what I've been doing is putting mostly 87 and top off with 91 and engine runs very smooth now. Think the end result is around 89 octane.

 

Tier 3 (88 pump octane) vs Tier 2 (93.3 pump octane) as tested by EPA on 2018 Camry 2.5 A25A-FKS Dynamic Force engine.

Benchmarking Advanced Low Emission Light-Duty Vehicle Technology | US EPA

Brake Thermal Efficiency

For the Toyota A25A-FKS engine, the high load transient zone was limited to a narrow band near peak torque, and differences between initial and final values of BTE were minimal, except for small areas at low and high speeds near the peak torque line. BTE using Tier 3 Fuel: The Toyota 2.5-liter A25A-FKS engine was also benchmarked using Tier 3 certification fuel (see Table 4 for the fuel specifications). After mapping the engine on Tier 2 fuel, and prior to collecting engine data on Tier 3, the engine and ECU were pre-conditioned by running through the full engine mapping process with Tier 3. This allowed the ECU to adapt to the change in octane and alcohol content across all its low to high loads for approximately three hours. Data was then collected by running through the mapping process a second time on Tier 3 fuel. Figure 27 shows the effect of changing fuels on BTE at 2000 rpm and 3000 rpm. All data points shown in Figure 27 are at stoichiometric air fuel (A/F) ratio; higher load points that include commanded fuel enrichment are not shown. The steady-state mapping results show very small BTE differences between the two fuels below a torque of about 160 Nm. It is important to note that the minor drop in BTE observed with Tier 3 fuel does not actually correspond to an increase in CO2 emissions because Tier 3 fuel has a lower carbon content than Tier 2 fuel. As described previously, using Tier 3 fuel results in a small-but-measurable overall reduction in CO2 both on a fleet-wide and individual vehicle basis. This is also true for the Toyota 2.5-liter A25A-FKS, as installed in the 2018 Toyota Camry.

Here is the link
Benchmarking Advanced Low Emission Light-Duty Vehicle Technology | Vehicle and Fuel Emissions Testing | US EPA

I'll attach the two report.
Tier 2 Fuel is equal to 93 (RON+MON)/2
Tier 3 Fuel is equal to 88 (RON+MON)/2
View attachment 332369 View attachment 332368
Here is the BSFC & BTE charts

Tier 2 fuel(93):
View attachment 332365
View attachment 332366
Tier 3 Fuel(88):
View attachment 332367

From the report we can see when using high octane rating fuel, the efficiency will be higher in high rpm high load region.
The fuel enrichment on knock suppression also is slightly late compare to 88 ratings.(Might means more power?)
The spark timing is also shifted a little.

EPA already did a test for High Octane Rating Fuel in Dynamic Force Engine | Toyota Nation Forum

 

This engine is virtually a 'variable compression ratio' engine. Because the intake valve timing allows the fuel/air mixture return to intake manifold in the compression cycle. (so there is a vacuum pump to boost the brake). It is designed to run regular gas, but premium gas won't hurt anything, and the gain of power is hardly noticeable.

I remember the chief engineer of ford 2.7 Ecoboost engine said it can gain 5% performance on premium gas because the boost and firing/valve timing adjustment controlled by computer.

 

Recently I had 2 tank of 91 premium Costco gas , the engine is slightly quieter and smoother, especially when the direct injection phase. And I feel gas milage slightly better, 40 or 50km more on one tank. not scientific though.

 

I use 91/93 when I can. I'm rather sensitive and perceive the engine to run just a bit smoother across the range. Torque around 2k is slightly improved, not by much. Most of the time I run 89 due to cost. Being in a hot/humid climate I don't run 87 as the engine stumbles under accelleration.

Interesting to note if you look in the Lexus UX200(not H) owners manual on page 464 it says very plainly to use 91 octane or higher for "optimum engine performance. Those cars have the exact same engine as the Corolla (dynamic force models only). Now it is entirely possible that Lexus has a different tuning from the factory as they know their customers tend to have deeper pockets and won't care, but I have a feeling that these cars can benefit from it.

Fuel economy wise, I get the best on 89. 93 I'm a little more aggressive and burn through any gains I might get.

 

I have been putting only 93 octane since the first fill up but recently switched to Shell V-Power 93. I do feel the power difference from when I picked up my Corolla Cross. I don’t understand how people can stand by their decision to put 87 octane. The vehicle just drives so terribly. My current mods are AFE Takeda Momentum 5R CAI, Camry A25A-FKS throttle body with GGP Corolla to Camry throttle body adapter, Pedal Commander throttle controller. I’m currently just waiting for AMT tuning to be able to read and write into the 2023 ECU. I have purchases Stage 3 tune with EGR delete, speed governor removal and park/neutral rev limited. I have GGP EGR delete kit waiting to be installed once the tune is complete. Future mods will be 2J header and custom exhaust.

 

I don’t understand how people can stand by their decision to put 87 octane. The vehicle just drives so terribly. My current mods are AFE Takeda Momentum 5R CAI, Camry A25A-FKS throttle body with GGP Corolla to Camry throttle body adapter, Pedal Commander throttle controller.

I think you asked and answered your own question. You have mods. Without mods, no need to upgrade octane IMO

 

I ran 91 since 1st fill up

Still do

Tbh I've ran 91 on the last 3x 4 bangers I owned specd to 87 as per manual but tuned them all to 91

I guess I always had hopes to tune this car too but never got around to it

But I don't judge people for using the specd fuel as per manufacturer recommendations BUT if the argument is do what manual says ...

... then here it goes....

Change your oil in intervals as per man spec too 🤣

 

I ran 91 since 1st fill up

Still do

Tbh I've ran 91 on the last 3x 4 bangers I owned specd to 87 as per manual but tuned them all to 91

I guess I always had hopes to tune this car too but never got around to it

But I don't judge people for using the specd fuel as per manufacturer recommendations BUT if the argument is do what manual says ...

... then here it goes....

Change your oil in intervals as per man spec too 🤣

I think the manual is 100% correct if you take it from the perspective of the people who wrote it. Toyota designed and built this car for economy, so that's what the manual will outline. It's not going to tell you how to lower your vehicle, adjust the camber for performance etc lol.

I also think the oil intervals outlined in the manual and the lifetime transmission fluid etc are correct.... if you're working for toyota, because if you follow the manual your car will still run for 10 years under normal conditions, trouble free... most likely. Toyota may brag about their long living vehicles, but I don't think they want you to keep your car longer than a few years and they surely don't want it running trouble free for over 10 years or 20+ years if you take care of it.

To be honest, I'm following the manual on this car because I'm not keeping it past 10 years. For the first time ever I got extended warranty because it was basically thrown in for negotiation purposes along with rust proofing due to inflexibility on the MSRP during covid, but if I was going to keep the car for over 10 years I would definitely not be following the manual! This is also why I'd never buy a used car. I'd never believe anyone would do the necessary things to have a car run for over 10 years trouble free when they aren't planning on owning it more than 5-6 years. Used to be you couldn't own a car longer than 7 years due to rust where I grew up, now I see the average length of ownership is creeping up to near 10 years in canada. I wager most people planning to own past 10 years or go high mileage don't even do the basic maintenance properly, never mind actually changing the transmission, brake and oil fluids at actual proper intervals.

 

Fuels compared to 20 years ago is better refined. In my turbo car, I’m set up for 91. 93 isn’t available to me nor is e85.

You can technically use 87 with an octane booster. But the cost of octane booster went up since Covid.

 

.. But the cost of octane booster went up since Covid.

As did everything else I enjoy lol