As for the CV leak, could try Goop or some other type of rubber cement for outdoor.
If that doesn't work, get replacement boot.
When wife had 89 Celica, I replaced the first one with a solid boot.
Then the second I found that they make a split boot. Remove old, wrap new boot with grease inside, then slide metal sleeve over the two ends.
No need to take the axle apart and never leaked after.
As for the oil leak, i cant tell if it is from above leaking down in the picture.

 

There's a product called "Shoe Goo" red tube, white lettering, that many shoe stores like Walmart carry it on the rack for polish, laces, and cleaners.

It's designed to bond to rubber and build up any area on gym shoes that wear out too fast, usually the heel. When it dries it dries to a hard durable surface. If it is really just a pin hole and not a rip you might give it spin. Surface should be dry, and clean. I've never used it to seal a hole but it might work.

I figure if you put a thin dab on the area the thinness would allow it to flex. When you squeeze a bit out of the tube you'll find that if you wet your finger moisture prevents it from sticking to skin 100% as you wipe a bit over the area you think has the pin hole.

If you give a spin I'd be curious if it works since it's holding in any pressure.

 

SP, I found this YouTube video that you might be interested in. It's about a CV boot repair kit. If you ask me the guy should replace the darn thing, watch it and see what I am talking about.

Good luck!

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Oil leak? Try a high mileage oil. If it still leaks, then its silicone sealant or FIPG issue somewhere(timing chain cover). I would carefully inspect the valve cover gaskets or just replace them. Or, you some oil dye and light to trace the source. <$10 for the oil dye ounce at local autopart store.

How much grease has been lost? is the CV knocking?
Local autopart store should have a packet of CV grease. I'd use a syringe and try to refill thru the leak.
Scrub it clean and use a hot or cold vulcanizing tire patch cut to size. Local autopart store should have a chemical vulcanizing cement for rubber patches.

 

Or, you some oil dye and light to trace the source. <$10 for the oil dye ounce at local autopart store .

Why not go this route? Clean up the engine bay, put some dye and see where the leak is originating from?

 

Thanks for the CV tips guys. I've got Goop handy, I can try that. PhotonDreams, the way you described that stuff, it soudns pretty hard, I'd worry it would fly off the first time it has to bend. Now that vulcanizing stuff sounds like the right kind of stuff. The CV is still quiet, but from the amount I've seen come out, I'd be repacking if it was a smaller ATV/UTV CV like I'm used to working on. Syringe is a good idea, I'll do that before I try any of these fixes.

As for the oil, I was hoping to go longer (@155k now) before switching to MH oil as I don't want to swell all the other good seals. But it seems like I don't have a choice. I just took all the under-body covers off so I could actually look vs peering/feeling through the wheel arch.....I wish I hadn't.

Its the freaking headgasket. The entire length of that side is wet (that exposed bit is soaked), and its obvious worst at the front corner. I think one of the main oil passages is right behind that freeze plug where it looks the most wet. I had cleaned up the area below the engine last night, and just driving 20 miles today I noticed more than a few drips on the cradle/plastic underbody covers, so it seems like its getting larger. Switching to MH oil is pretty much my only option as I really don't want to pay to have the cradle dropped and engine torn down if it gets worse (nor would I on this vehicle at this point). Being the rear bank, I'm fairly certain on vehicle work is impossible. Ugh, now I've gotta start worrying/checking about other head-gasket issues more often....

edit: been thinking, headgasket issues usually isn't oil, I'll check the valve cover again, but its pretty much dry up there. I just can't explain the actual wet gasket.

 

Head gasket? Are there oil drain journals near the edge of the head?

Are you sure the oil is just not following the seam? i.e like a valve cover leak near the cams, that caplliaries along the seam?

Otherwse, unless you have a compression or coolant leak, and the plugs are aren't oil fouled, I'd leave it be.

As for the boot, if it's truly a pin hole--versus a developing crack, then clean it with acetone and use the most flexible make-a-gasket stuff and let it cure overnight. If you can get some of it in a large syringe, forcing a small amount into and behind the hole and then drawing needle out and building up the outside slightly will form a locking plug. Practice on a hole in some cardboard.

I'd say Goop, but it softens when exposed to petroleum products.

If you go to the trouble of pulling it apart to replace the boot, if you are nudging 150k miles, I'd just replace the entire axle with a quality reman.

 

It looks like most of the drains are on the outer edge, with the biggest one right where its the most wet (directly below that far right lower exhaust manifold nut). What I'm thinking is its coming out right there and flowing, there is a lot of oil on that exposed gasket a few inches to the left. It could be flowing though; I've yet to rule out the timing chain cover (its not very accessible around there). But the engine looks dry up by the valve cover. If I have time this week I'll look at it again closer. An oil leak from a headgasket just doesn't seem probable....

I'll try the CV this weekend. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Didn't realize reman axles are only $100. That's not bad, considering a new boot kit is $30....

 

If its like other Toyota valve cover gaskets, I would simply try to tighten them a tad.

If you're sure its the head gasket area, I would scrub that area clean and give a good coating of Permatex Right Stuff. RTV/Silicone won't fix a 'pressure' leak but a gravity drain leak could be slowed down some.

And, don't worry about high mileage oil. Its doesn't blindly bloat swell up seals. You can even use ATP AT-205 )
I've used HM oils on new engines. I'd wager that its just a tad more conditioner than normal oils.

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-high-mileage
http://www.pennzoil.com/motor-oil/pennzoil-platinum-high-mileage-full-synthetic-motor-oil/
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hmx-high-mileage-motor-oil/
http://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/full-synthetic-max-life

Without using a resealer like ATP205, or a high mileage oil, some seals respond well to esters/diesters. Redline, MPT, and Neo have diester and polyolester based oils. All it takes is ~6 quarts and one run with it to see if it helps.

 

That, among other things, is the plan for the weekend.

 

So I went ahead and checked the compression on all the cylinders tonight. IF its the headgasket, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any issues with the cylinder seal. Plus I've been meaning to do this for awhile as the car has felt down on power. For the 2GR-FE: standard is 189psi, minimum is 142psi, max cylinder to cylinder delta is 15psi.

On the front bank left to right I got: 197psi, 200psi, 188psi
And on the rear bank L to R: 184psi, 181psi, 201psi.

So the 2 cylinders near the leak are lower and past the max delta, but I'm not worried. Close enough. So at least if its that oil drain at the edge, its not gonna cause bigger issues than a slight leak.

I'm going to clean the engine and put dye in it this weekend and see..as well as fix that CV boot. I couldn't find a plug kit small enough that wouldn't make the hole any bigger than it was, so I got some permatex ultra black, going to fill the hole with that, then I have a valcanizing surface patch I'm putting over. Should work...hopefully :lol:

 

So how goes the leak plugging and discovery?

 

CV didn't work. Surface patch has gone on permanent vacation sometime this week, and the permatex ultra didn't seal, it's still spewing grease. I'm just going to run it until I start hearing it complain and then replace it. Not worth putting 40-50% of the price of a new axle into a new CV boot and tool for its special clamps...Axle swap is an easy quick job too, so that's a plus.

It looks like the oil is coming from the timing chain cover, but I'm not sure yet. The UV die isn't very fluorescent (or my UV light is lousy, random note, a lot of the black plastic used in the engine compartment is impregnated with something that makes them glow green in UV. Thought it was odd.), so it doesn't stand out that well. But it was pooling again, and the entire side seam was dry, headgasket was dry (looked wet, but was dry to touch), but just left of the crankshaft, right at the engine mount, that seem looked dirty and was slightly wet. I wasn't glowing, but it wasn't dry either so I think its there. I guess wind (being in that area of the car) blew the oil up the back side of the motor :dunno: There was a lot of oil around the head-gasket and entire lower half of the side timing chain cover seam before I cleaned it. Valve cover was absolutely spotless and has been, so its not coming from there.

Random thought: Does HM Oil even have an effect on the silicon (Permatex Ultra Grey) they use to seal everything (timing chain cover & lower block to the short block)?

 

Random thought: Does HM Oil even have an effect on the silicon (Permatex Ultra Grey) they use to seal everything (timing chain cover & lower block to the short block)?

Not sure, but I wouldn't think so. Might be that it just wasn't well done to begin with and normal aging and shrinkage of rubbery materials is allowing it to seep.

Those joints aren't under pressure; if you clean the exterior squeaky clean to get a good bond, a surface application of Permatex might work.

You could also try the spray rubber crap I see on Infomercials that seals a garden hose on contact. :facepalm:

 

Sweeny,
As for the CV boot, I used some silicone for sealing tubs, glass shower doors, etc. I simply cleaned the boot very well with some parts cleaner, then with my finger just pushed it into the small hole. Its been holding for about 6 monts now with no issue.

As for the oil leak, I have had the same problem for a long time now. I bought some of this stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8209...D=514WBGiqtfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0WTKF091BTPFXEPFBBBA

I havent used it yet, but mine, like yours doesnt really leak alot, and it doesnt change the amount of oil between changes on the dipstick. One day Ill get to it.

 

That spray stuff looks interesting.

I'll try the silicon on the surface this weekend.

 

Timing cover leak is common enough. After the area is well cleaned, spray or silicone it and let it cure.

Concerning that engine cylinder compression, what oils/intervals have you been using? I should test mine to see how its doing.

My favorite RTV:
http://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker/

 

synethic 5w-30 (MB1 or Penzoil) @ 5k intervals

 

Noticed a small leak on wife's HL 6 months ago - near the rear seal. Enough to leave an oil spot on garage floor.
Figured it would cost over $1000 if dealership did it, without looking to see what it entails for me to do it. Decided to try Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak, couldn't hurt with good reviews.
Directions - a bottle every oil change. Put full bottle in 1st oil change - stopped leak after a week. Since then I have added only 1/2 bottle per the last two oil changes - still no leaks.

 

I'm in the middle of an axle replacement due to CV boot leak plus clicking sound, and noticed some of the same oil patterns where you say the oil "pools." I removed the axle, and haven't found any holes or tears in the boot, but it seemed to leak from around the edge of the inner boot, large clamp connection side. That's right where your (and my) engine oil could be dripping. I have one theory that the oil drips on the boot, then the boot weakens. The boot connection may start to leak grease, and/or pull off completely. I removed my old boot -- there was still plenty of grease in there. Also, I bought a used OEM axle off a salvage with lower miles. I pulled the cv joint out of place (dah). I had to pull on the boot, massage the bearings through the boot, and TRY to get the bearings back in place. All that nonsense, made the boot leak a bit from the large side, too. So, I failed to get the bearing back in place, and now I'm looking at taking off the clamp, and re-clamping it. I got a new OEM boot kit. BUT I'M HAVING TROUBLE FINDING A GOOD CRIMPING TOOL. The SST tool is about $200, and I cannot even find a used one on eBay, or anything on Amazon. The cheap tools at most auto parts stores, just from what I hear, don't have enough power to crimp these. I'm certain that the large boot clamp is a weak link, and needs to be done the best way possible.

 

I had same leak, dye indicates that its engine oil. Slinging off axel on vibe piston but still cant find origin.