I was just going to post about this. Mine is a 2007. i use the locker often. At least once a month includibg last month. I needed it, was stuck in snow and could not get it in. Just flashes. Tried all u did aswell with no luck. I have not been able to get it locked even after getting pulled out . temp is 20f here too.

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First I'd try lightly tapping the motor with a hammer to see if knocking the gunk off the brushes helps. When that fails, the actuator comes off with just 4 bolts, then you can plug it back in to see if the motor works or try to move the fork manually. There is also a position switch in there, make sure that's working freely.

Don't forget, since it's been a while, that it only locks in 4-Lo, unless you've done a mod.

 

Yes, I did remember that it only works in 4L. It will warm up in a few days, I'll continue to try and cycle it.

I remember when I changed from OEM gear lube to Amsoil that it worked a lot better. I'm probably coming up on another diff oil change soon, if I don't get it working, I'll rip it apart then.

UPDATE: took it to a snow covered parking lot and did some wheel spins, it is definately not locked, I could only spin one side. It was 40 degrees today, I tried figure 8s, putting it in and out, tried everything that I could think of, it will not go in. I guess I'll figure out what supplied power to it next and see if I have any.

 

Thanks for the update. Please keep me posted. I have the same issue. going up to 40f here today. Ill give it a try.

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Since the weather is nice now, I'd like to get this working. Can I pull the 4 screws and remove the motor without losing diff fluid? If the truck is in 4L and the switch is pressed, will it try to lock in the driveway with just the key on?

 

Not sure. I hace to investigate this as well so I am very interested in what you fibd. Its still pretty darm cold in upsate ny and I am sadly garageless. I would get a buddy to operate the switch while you listen to the motor at the diff. Matbe use a stethascope or the old screwdriver to the ear trick and see if you hear anything clicking. Before that even if there an electrical harness underthere you might try and probe it while operating the switch. See if electric is getting there. If so move ob to mechanical. Pleaee keep me posted. When it warms up a bit more.. maybe next month I will get into mine. Good luck.

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Looking at this, you have a motor and a limit switch, both tied into an ECU (surprise!)

Motor is powered from LG and LG-R (Light Green Red), and then it looks for the limit switch to make on LG-y and LG-B (Yellow and Black).

My troubleshooting pattern would follow these steps, in order of likely to fail, easiest to check

So could be several things causing your light to blink
1 - motor failure
2 - limit switch failure
3 - wiring failure
4 - ECU failure

1 - check out near the differential motor by looking for power on the leads above, and then listening for audible clunk or click after it gets juice

2 - look for contact closure across the leads above, status should go from off to on after you get the clunk in #1

3 - if you don't get voltage in #1, or you do get closure in #2, but see nothing at the ECU, check closer to the ECU. There are two connectors in between, ID1 and BD1, no idea where they are right now. Terminals at the ECU are M1 and M2 for motor, and RLY1 and RLY2 for switch. Colors change, LG and L (lite blue?) on motor, and P (pink) and LG-B on the switches.

4 - if you aren't getting power out to the motor when measured at the ECU, or you are getting it, and are sending the limit switch position change, you may have an ECU failure. Low probability here.

 

^ If I ever have problems like this, you'll get to meet me in person. A 3 hour drive would be worth it. :lol:

 

Before I tore into this problem I confirmed that it is in fact not locking and it's not just the limit switch. While trying to lock it with the switch ON and OFF, there is no difference in the way the truck acts. Having used the locker a few times I recall the feel of wanting to go straight no matter what when it's locked, I currently don't have that.

I half heartedly tried to pull the connector already but could not only because I ran out of time. Using the wiring diagram I will troubleshoot it electrically first. I also tried to find which fuse supplied the power but was unable to determine that so far.

 

It appears the 4wd fuse (20A) powers the entire 4wd ECU

Then IG1 No2 (10A) comes into play when you engage the Lock Diff Switch. Since IG1 No2 powers about 1/2 the truck, including lights, I doubt its that one.

 

Dealership is charging me $97 to tell me that it doesn't work. No shit... new actuator is $1300...



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My locker was totally inop, and I succesfully got it working again.

My sypmtoms were identical to yours, but the issue wasnt electrical, when I unbolted the unit it appeared ok, if dirty. Toyota considers the unit non-overhaul, just remove and replace. That's asinine. Took the thing completely apart and discovered it absoluetly full of a dirt/gravel/grease/rust/water mixture. Packed into every void like concrete. I removed the dirt, and did my best with the rusty gears, used a file on the teeth and a bit of scotchbrite to bring them back. IIRC one of the gears was plastic :facepalm: Plenty of WD40 was consumed. Used some Mobil Red grease on the gear teeth. Tested it with some 12v power on the bench and the little acutator moved happily.

The unit is laughably delicate, as well as open to the weather, so it had no hope on it's own. Since my overhaul it's seen another 70000 miles, tons of snow, and multiple stream crossings without another complaint.

 

Big thumbs up. I was thinking take it apart and clean it. Very happy that worked for you. I will do the same.

 

Do you have to drain the diff when you remove it?

I really appreciate the insight!

 

I dont think so. Though mine was empty when I took it off. the shaft that sticks out is way on the top of the diff. So no fluid would leak out. Check it out. If your drain plug is lower than the shaft, you good.