Replace your pilot bearing. If the pull tool can’t get the bearing out, use white bread method.

Inspect both flywheel and clutch. Also check your flywheel bolts. Since you’re there, replace rear main seal.

 

Are the flywheel bolts reusable? or are they the type that are only one use after torqued to spec?

 

Just make sure the bolts did not stretch or show signs of issues.

 

how can i be sure of them stretching? would I just compare them each to one another? Sorry if these are dumb questions, just wanna make sure i do this right

 

The bolts are not torqued till they stretched like the head bolts on the 4age. If you don't race the car on the track and they were torqued correctly before, it shouldn't be a problem. I would definitely consider the throw out bearings on the fork as you don't want to find out after reinstall it's making noise. Resurface the the flywheel or at the least clean and inspect for heat marks and cracks. Get the OE parts....from rock auto...aisin....and the clutch will last much longer.....I have 267k miles on my car and its on 2nd clutch......I also would mark exactly where the flywheel mates to the crank as they are balanced together. Place engine at TDC and mark flywheel position....so as to reinstall flywheel exactly at same position.......good luck

 

I ordered the clutch off rockauto but the only flywheels I found on there were for 4afe but someone in another thread here linked me a 20v flywheel which upon research since the clutch for some reason reads 210mm (ik it's supposed to be 200 or 212), should be good with the 212mm 20v flywheel.. lowkey an upgrade too since it's a little lighter than the oe 88 gts flywheel (if i recall it's like 2-3kg lighter)

 

I honestly think if you could measure a stretch beyond the nominal variations in manufacturing to know the bolt stretched, the bolt would have exceeded is yield strength and would have snapped into two pieces. Yes, there is a bit of permanent elongation possible from an overly stressed bolt, it will not have stretched enough to measure it before it snaps apart.

 

I'm

Bolts are typically assigned with min. 1.5x margin for Toyotas, so they should not be stretched unless they were over torqued. On Hondas I have found reusing same bolts a problem as the the FSM would recommend replacement.....and the broke during reuse. The Toyota FSM only torqued head bolts for the 4age by using a stretching bolts procedure....but same bolts are used by 4afe and 4af are just torque down without stretching/ at yield procedure.

 

Flywheel, don't buy performance lighten flywheel....waste of money and flywheel warps....I look for an OEM type...

 

Flywheel, don't buy performance lighten flywheel....waste of money and flywheel warps....I look for an OEM type...

it is an oem from a 20v 4age instead of 16v..

 

How does the flywheel condition? High and low spots and gouges? Might be able to machine it, but hardly any machine shops do this anymore. Most of the work done these days are out of state. Thanks California.

 

my dad knows someone who can machine it but if worse case i can do what corolla clone suggested with w wheel and drill.

Also got car up on jacks now, went to start it but due to a previous problem the entire engine and undercarriage is pretty called in oil so i’m going to spend a day or two cleaning that.
I also need to get a bolt for my passenger side engine mount since Im missing that.

 

What mounts or bolts do I need to remove besides these? And for the ones on the trans, do I take those out or farther up where it mounts directly to engine?

(edit: disregard last picture)

 

What mounts or bolts do I need to remove besides these? And for the ones on the trans, do I take those out or farther up where it mounts directly to engine? View attachment 435123
View attachment 435125
View attachment 435124

also, I assume I need to remove both of the cv axles yea?

 

Since you're removing the transaxle, you'll need to pull the drive axles out of the transaxle. You will have to remove the outer CV joints as well (complete axle assemblies), which means tearing apart the front suspension too.
As for which bolts to remove, I have no idea, without referencing the FSM (you do have one right?). I only say that as I don't pull transmissions out every day for a living, so I don't know which ones need to be pulled until I get in there and do it. Sorry, I don't mean to come off sounding like a dick, but you're the one with it in front of you, while I'm sitting in my kitchen having lunch. I normally just get in there and remove the tires and drive axles first, then keep working my way inward. Taking it apart will take twice as long, since you're trying to figure out what has to be removed in order for the transaxle to be removed. Don't forget to remove the shifter cables (at the trans, use some masking tape to label them). Having your phone out and taking pics as you work your way thru will help when the time comes to put it back together (how my son does that stuff, even at work (works for a Chevy dealership).

I spent 4 days removing a rusty front cradle on my wife's Accord over this past summer. Part of that time was spent going thru the FSM, trying to figure out how to remove it, as they show using a support unit to hold the engine and trans while you remove all of the lower mounts (I used a jack and some 4x4 blocks to hold it up). Then you can take the 6 bolts that hold the sub-frame out. I spent 12 days swapping/replacing the old rusty one with good used parts from Georgia and Oregon. While I was in there I replaced the steering rack (280Kmiles on it) as it had to be disconnected and was mounted inside the rear part of the sub-frame. Then I spent another week replacing brake and fuel lines (again) along with the exhaust system (the easiest part of the whole fricken job). All of that to save 1500 in labor plus parts (just for the sub-frame swap).

 

The printed FSM are available. Some are sold as a set. Volume set is engine repair, body repair and electrical. There may be another volume, but it’s rare to find a complete set.

@Corrolla clone is correct. You can find them cheap on eBay. You’ll have to keep checking eBay when they’re not available.

Another thing you could try, is the digital version. I don’t know if Toyota’s TIS lite site offers FSM pdf for the 6th gen anymore. If it does, then you can buy a 2 day pass for around $20 and download them.

 

Pulled out tranny too many times .....The lower cross bar you show that holds rear and front engine mount has to come out. The rear mount cross bolt has to be removed since the two studs for the rear mount won't allow you to drop and slide out the cross brace.....and so the front mount has to be removed entirely so you can slide the cross bar out. It's a pain in ass unless you modify the rear mount after it had be removed......thats another story....
The engine needs to be supported as the driver side mount holds onto the tranny. Besides removing axles and draining tranny oil....from top you have to remove battery, and air box to get to the driver side engine mounts, then put a cross brace to hold engine up. Starter has to be removed. There is a tranny plate and depending on year, ...might have to remove some additional brackets that attach engine to tranny.

Once you removed the remaining bolts, you have to carefully pry the tranny from engine as two pins align and holds them together. Better have a clutch alignment tool to install disk centered or you never get it back together . If not, use 3/8, 6 inch extension and wrap enough masking tape on tip to align into engine side and measure out how far to disk and wrap enough tape to center the disk as well before torquing down clutch pressure plate. Sometimes clutch kits come with alignment tool. Make sure you replace rear main seal. Don't pry it out with pick or screwdriver and mess up the crankshaft seal surface of you will forever have a leak!!!....

 

Pulled out tranny too many times .....The lower cross bar you show that holds rear and front engine mount has to come out. The rear mount cross bolt has to be removed since the two studs for the rear mount won't allow you to drop and slide out the cross brace.....and so the front mount has to be removed entirely so you can slide the cross bar out. It's a pain in ass unless you modify the rear mount after it had be removed......thats another story....
The engine needs to be supported as the driver side mount holds onto the tranny. Besides removing axles and draining tranny oil....from top you have to remove battery, and air box to get to the driver side engine mounts, then put a cross brace to hold engine up. Starter has to be removed. There is a tranny plate and depending on year, ...might have to remove some additional brackets that attach engine to tranny.

Once you removed the remaining bolts, you have to carefully pry the tranny from engine as two pins align and holds them together. Better have a clutch alignment tool to install disk centered or you never get it back together . If not, use 3/8, 6 inch extension and wrap enough masking tape on tip to align into engine side and measure out how far to disk and wrap enough tape to center the disk as well before torquing down clutch pressure plate. Sometimes clutch kits come with alignment tool. Make sure you replace rear main seal. Don't pry it out with pick or screwdriver and mess up the crankshaft seal surface of you will forever have a leak!!!....

On my sons 08 Civic Si, we used a doubled up 2by4 and a ratchet strap to hold the rear (middle) of the engine up, so we could pull the 6 speed trans out the left side wheel well opening. That car is more like a Corolla in that the front sub uses bolt in frame rails under the drive axles. We wrestled with it trying to slip it out, but we've since done it several times now as he was playing with the final drive differential gearing (experimenting), as he has another car getting a K-swap and 6 speed combo(from an Acura). His auto classes in college barely covered manual transmissions, so he learned them on his own stuff. He's also worked on his DSG trans in his 2010 VW Jetta (rebuilt it). That trans is a clutchless manual. Well not really clutchless, but rather a dual clutch that's computer and hydraulic controlled. He didn't get much help at work trying to fix it, but after doing some research, he found what the common issue is with them, and bought a service kit and a new torque converter/dual clutch assembly for it. It's been fine for almost a year now, and he's changed the fluid in it 3 times already, since he rebuilt it. During his search, he found that those transmissions need a fluid and filter change every 25-30K miles, and it had never been done before he bought it (w/180K miles). He's done enough of engine and trans work (on GM's) at work, that they're moving him up to doing it on a regular basis (heavy engine tech), even doing engine replacements on C-6 Corvettes. He's been there a little over two years now and likes it.

 

update: i got the trans off, replaced the rear main seal, am currently cleaning my subframe and trans exterior up, ordered new bushings for my sway bar or roll bar (i think at least), i went off a part number from the diagram.
I'm intending to get it all in and done by the end of this week but was wondering if anyone has a list of the torque specs for the reinstall or know where I could find it?

 

update: i got the trans off, replaced the rear main seal, am currently cleaning my subframe and trans exterior up, ordered new bushings for my sway bar or roll bar (i think at least), i went off a part number from the diagram.
I'm intending to get it all in and done by the end of this week but was wondering if anyone has a list of the torque specs for the reinstall or know where I could find it?

I can look them up and report later if no one else lists them before I get back.