Without knowing specifically about the HL, that is usually hard to unless the battery tray was modified. The battery "size" is defined by the physical dimensions it fits into. So by definition, any larger battery will have different dimensions. But you can check you battery tray and see if there is any spare clearance, and if so then measure it.

But one can get a higher quality battery (sometimes marketing as "Gold" by AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts), or an AGM battery.

 

After a string of batteries that needed replacing at about 24 months-in, I finally got the battery I should have bought the first time-around--although I did pick it up on a local deep discount:

http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/yellowtop-deep-cycle-battery/d35

 

I assume it is a standard group 24f? A search on any parts website should say. I personally went with a stereo battery as an upgrade to my Camry, just replaced the first one after 6 years. It has the bonus of being designed to pass a lot of current so your starter will really crank well, starts in a blink. It is an AGM battery so if you occasionally use a charger you will need one with that setting. Same for that optima also I believe. Here is what I bought, it is ever so slightly taller and narrower than the stock, fit right in its place. Pay attention to the polarity of the old vs new when you install.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinetik-HC18...y/dp/B004MLZURG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1536158340&sr=8-10&keywords=kinetic+agm

 

...It is an AGM battery so if you occasionally use a charger you will need one with that setting. Same for that optima also I believe...

Yup. Optima makes two styles of chargers available for the task, too.

http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/battery-charger

I use the 1200 to keep a rack of 8 paralleled AGMs topped-up for LED lighting, powering UPSes and low-voltage charging in the house--on those rare occasions when power fails--and it works very well. If I need it for the car, the batteries on the rack won't miss it for 16 hours or so.

 

Power to the People!

I bought my 2005 AWD 4 cylinder in 2008 with 40k+ miles on it. The original battery was in it when I bought it and it lasted until 2014. When I pulled that sucker out it was heavy, baby. Heavy. As in a whole lotta lead. I thought to myself “I’m never going to be able to get that kind of battery ever again.” I replaced it with a Walmart 24F Ever Start Maxx (which was noticeably lighter) and it’s been good for 4 1/2 years. 3 year warranty so I figure I’m in bonus time. It’s not a sealed battery and I keep it topped up. The charging system is good and the cells all show even charge and I’d be surprised not to get 6 years out of it. I’d be delighted to get 7 years . Ecstatic with 8 years. Deliriously joyful with 9 years. You get the picture. Anyway, as I said, it’s all gravy now.

You ask if there is any advantage to a larger battery. What do you want or need? More electrical power for accessories when the engine is running? (Heavy duty alternator?) Power when then the engine is not running? (Deep cycle auxiliary battery?) Longer battery life? (Heavy/expensive battery.) Any advantage depends on your uses/needs.


All other things being equal, a marginally larger battery will only give you marginally greater benefit, and that’s what what you’ll get with rigging a marginally larger battery tray.


Cheers,


Guylander

 

Good advice in general but a move from an old tech of the shelf battery to a new agm or even slightly better "thin plate" battery can be a whole lot more amp hours in the same size along with more amps under load. Modern cars have a lot of key off drains. My reason for upgrading was I left an always transmitting blu tooth dongle plugged into my Camry's obdII port for my torque app. I left it sit for a week without driving it and it killed the battery. The 74 amp hours of the stereo battery eliminated that trouble.

 

::: nod :::

I had the same problem on another vehicle that had a series of cameras that were transmitting video constantly, but my approach was to add a double set of flodded cell batteries that were isolated from the starting battery.

AGMs do away with such a necessity.