Get a maf cal from urd. Tune that sucker- http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=66_103_72&products_id=1260198051

 

I get the same thing on my 07 with the V6 with 6700 miles. It's done it since new. Look around, there are other threads on this, it seems pretty common. I finally stopped thinking about it.

 

my 4 cyl has a pretty good bit.

 

Our trucks run very rich from the factory, get a MAF Calibrator from URD and tune it. That should help with the problem. Otherwise it is normal.

 

Is there any ramifications in tuning it to run leaner...not being a tuner type guy. Is there some default type suggestions settings from URD that can be easily used with out a problem?

 

Is there any ramifications in tuning it to run leaner...not being a tuner type guy. Is there some default type suggestions settings from URD that can be easily used with out a problem?

If you get a MAF tuner from URD, there are a few posters that can help you tune it, TacoGrande being one of them.

I too have the black soot, and I do have the MAF tuner from URD, although I have been too lazy to tune it.

You will need a laptop and this cable to tune it though:

There are problems with running it too lean, but the chances of that happening are very slim if you follow the advice of the posters here.

 

as long as you don't run it too lean you will be fine. Our trucks from about 14:1 from the factory where it should be 12:1 if you run it too lean then the you will burn the rings and pistons. 12:1 is a good rule.

 

none

&

NO Moisture to boot !!!

 

THANKS GUYS...that was the info I was looking for. No problem with the PC. It seams that running a little leaner would be a good thing.

And as far as no moisture. You have to have moisture. It's a natural occurrence of the chemical reaction.

zmtmbik....when you tune it I would be very interested in the results.

 

My '06 V6 turns the chrome tip black, puts **** on the quarter panel, and makes the bumper chrome look like it's oily. That black stuff is a PITA to clean off of the tip.

I would say, yes, they all do it.

 

No soot at all 13k.

 

Anyone wanna post tips on how to tune the MAF calibrator?? I just ordered it Friday and should be here tomorrow. I ordered it becuase I was runnin too rich, everytime it would shift at 4000+ rpms, a puff of black smoke comes out.

 

How much BLACK SOOT do you have in your tail pipe?

Why don't you just come over and find out big boy? :naughty:

 

as long as you don't run it too lean you will be fine. Our trucks from about 14:1 from the factory where it should be 12:1 if you run it too lean then the you will burn the rings and pistons. 12:1 is a good rule.

Are you suggesting to tune it richer?
(?Is 14:1 change to 12:1???)

BTW, much less soot than any other vehicle I've had in last 10 yrs

 

 

as long as you don't run it too lean you will be fine. Our trucks from about 14:1 from the factory where it should be 12:1 if you run it too lean then the you will burn the rings and pistons. 12:1 is a good rule.

That's not quite the case. All newer vehicles run 14.7:1 during closed loop when the ECU is reading the air fuel ratio from the o2 sensors, which is a nice fuel efficient burn ratio and perfect for crusing. During open loop (hauling ass) when the ECU relies on a preset map and NO o2 sensor input our trucks run about 10:1, which is horribly pig rich. That's what produces lots of soot. The perfect tune for maximum power is 12.5:1 during closed loop, but I dial mine in to 12:1 because I have stock gears, 33's and lots of heavy armor. X's and prerunners should shoot for 12.5 or so.

 

Uhmm...wait,...we're talking about trucks, right?

I actually wiped the inside of my tailpipe out on my 07 DC Taco (7000 miles) this past week to check and see how much accumulation was there. There was a smattering of black on the rag, but not enough to worry about.

 

Why don't you just come over and find out big boy? :naughty:

Well I was going to say something like my pipe is bigger than your pipe but for some reason it doesn't sound right.

 

That's not quite the case. All newer cars run 14.7:1 during closed loop when the ECU is reading the air fuel ratio from the o2 sensors, which is a nice fuel efficient burn ratio and perfect for cruising. During open loop (hauling ass) when the ECU relies on a preset map and NO o2 sensor input our trucks run about 10:1, which is horribly pig rich. That's what produces lots of soot. The perfect tune for maximum power is 12.5:1 during closed loop, but I dial mine in to 12:1 because I have stock gears, 33's and lots of heavy armor. X's and prerunners should shoot for 12.5 or so.

THAT MAKES SENSE....the majority of my driving is at 55-60+ mph and 1/3rd of that is at 70+...is that what you are saying about the 10:1?

 

I have some on my '07 V6 with trd exhaust.

 

THAT MAKES SENSE....the majority of my driving is at 55-60+ mph and 1/3rd of that is at 70+...is that what you are saying about the 10:1?

Yes, at freeway speeds you'll be in closed loop running at 10:1. It's even worse with a volant or trd intake, my volant dropped the A/F ratio to 9:1 closed loop before tuning. Aftermarket exhaust has the richening effect also. Matt's X dropped from 12.5 to 11.5 after the addition of a URD exhaust system and magnaflow. Adding freeflowing intake and exhaust doesn't do shit but waste gas and sound cool unless you tune.

 

Are you suggesting to tune it richer?
(?Is 14:1 change to 12:1???)

BTW, much less soot than any other vehicle I've had in last 10 yrs

Sorry I got it backwards...I was tired yesterday I apologize.

 

Is there any ramifications in tuning it to run leaner...not being a tuner type guy. Is there some default type suggestions settings from URD that can be easily used with out a problem?

Generally speaking...I would think running lean will mean the engine is gonna run hotter.

I'd rather run rich and keep things on the cool side.

I've got 07 with 3300 miles and I've had black soot at the tailpipe since day 1.

 

Running too rich just waste gas and clogs up the Cat with soot. Running 12.0 to 12.5 (which is already on the RICH side..the lower the AFR number, the richer it is) will be no problem for those of us in the States (If you are in Germany and running WOT down the autobahn, then you might want it to be a tad richer).

I have the MAF calibrator installed and have done just some initial tuning so far. I am installing my AFR gauge (Innovate LC-1and dig gauge) this weekend (didn't get to it last W/E). I will be glad to post my map when I get it tuned.

I can tell you though, that the pre-loaded map if VERY conservative. You are only going to hit the modified cells in the map if you are near WOT and already above 4000 RPM.
Just from my monitoring so far, the TPS will only report a max voltage of about 4.1v at WOT (not 5v). Any map cells past that will never be reached. Keep that in mind when setting your map values.

I have also noticed that, in my truck at least, the ECM will change to Open loop mode fairly often when you are > 40% throttle, so there is a lot of room to change cell values in the map.

 

wj....that what I was thinking about clogging the CAT or making it less efficient. I am not worried as much about mileage as I am about burning clean. I would appreciate your tuning numbers being posted. Side note...does it increase mileage at the higher speeds?