This seems to be a pretty common complaint with the first gen Highlander/Kluger/RX3xx. After about 3 or so years you go to roll down a window and it just seems to run out of battery. It then takes you about 30 minutes rolling the window up in 10 minute intervals. This is due to Toyota's 5th level of protection from yourself. Confused? Let me explain.
Level 1: Each window is fused to 20 amps save for the passenger front that one is fused to 25 amps.
Level 2: Each window is powered by a rather small motor. Nothing like the window motors of old that were the size of the engine starter of our highlanders.
Level 3: Each window is actuated by a push-down pull up switch. Yes this is a safety feature. This way you could never put weight on the switch and have it go up. They have actually been required by US DOT since October 2008.
Level 4: The window lock.
Level 5: This is the part we are going to defeat for the sake of reliability. If it's function is important to you then go out and find a replacement motor. This is thermal resistor otherwise known as a PTC or Thermister. As it's internal temperature goes up the less current it allows to flow through it. Hence the "Runs out of juice" effect.
Ok enough blathering. Where we're starting at is after you have removed the motor and regulator from the door. If I have to I'll create how-tos for that as well.
Tools needed:
Soldering Iron
Needle nose pliers
Phillips head screw driver
Magnet for picking out one of the nuts.
Step 1: Remove the motor from the regulator. Be sure to move the arm out of the way of the three screws. You will need the T-25 Torx wrench to remove these screws.
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Step 2: With the motor removed from the regulator remove the 3 screws connecting the base with the can. Two of the nuts will fall out willingly the third will have to be coaxed out with a magnet or pick. Don't leave it in there, it likes to fall out unexpectedly.
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Step 3: Pull the can away from the base. Due to the magnets in the can the armature will pull out with the can. this is fine.
![Image]()
Step 4
ull the brush springs off and put them aside. Just press each in and lift away from the base. Then grab your needle nose pliers and pull off the contact for each brush. You may now remove the brushes. Put them aside.
![Image]()
Step 5: Remove one side of the capacitor, do not cut it! Just grab one side with your needle nose pliers and pull it off. Then grab the connector that has the 2 plates connected to it. The plates are the PTC/Thermister.
Removing the capacitor:
![Image]()
Pulling the connector with plates:
![Image]()
Step 6: Hold the part with the 2 plates using some "helping hands" or with your needle nose pliers and a rubber band. Solder a bead bridging the two copper plates across the top.
![Image]()
Step 7: Re-install the thermister plate and re-connect the capacitor.
Step 8: Re-install the brushes but do not install the springs yet.
Step 9: Insert the armature into the base then install the brush springs.
![Image]()
Step 10: Be sure to line up the can properly. Wide on wide narrow on narrow. Be sure to also install the rubber gasket onto the base. It will get stuck if you don't. Hold the armature with your finger and bring the can over top of it. Be sure to hold it firmly, Otherwise it will pinch your finger or pull out the armature. If that happens go back to step 9. In one movement remove your finger and slam down the can onto the base. DO NOT FORCE IT!
Lining up the can:
![Image]()
Holding the armature with your finger:
![Image]()
Step 11: Re-install the motor onto the regulator and test on the car. The motor should turn nice and strong with no slowdown.
Level 1: Each window is fused to 20 amps save for the passenger front that one is fused to 25 amps.
Level 2: Each window is powered by a rather small motor. Nothing like the window motors of old that were the size of the engine starter of our highlanders.
Level 3: Each window is actuated by a push-down pull up switch. Yes this is a safety feature. This way you could never put weight on the switch and have it go up. They have actually been required by US DOT since October 2008.
Level 4: The window lock.
Level 5: This is the part we are going to defeat for the sake of reliability. If it's function is important to you then go out and find a replacement motor. This is thermal resistor otherwise known as a PTC or Thermister. As it's internal temperature goes up the less current it allows to flow through it. Hence the "Runs out of juice" effect.
Ok enough blathering. Where we're starting at is after you have removed the motor and regulator from the door. If I have to I'll create how-tos for that as well.
Tools needed:
Soldering Iron
Needle nose pliers
Phillips head screw driver
Magnet for picking out one of the nuts.
Step 1: Remove the motor from the regulator. Be sure to move the arm out of the way of the three screws. You will need the T-25 Torx wrench to remove these screws.
Step 2: With the motor removed from the regulator remove the 3 screws connecting the base with the can. Two of the nuts will fall out willingly the third will have to be coaxed out with a magnet or pick. Don't leave it in there, it likes to fall out unexpectedly.
Step 3: Pull the can away from the base. Due to the magnets in the can the armature will pull out with the can. this is fine.
Step 4
ull the brush springs off and put them aside. Just press each in and lift away from the base. Then grab your needle nose pliers and pull off the contact for each brush. You may now remove the brushes. Put them aside.
Step 5: Remove one side of the capacitor, do not cut it! Just grab one side with your needle nose pliers and pull it off. Then grab the connector that has the 2 plates connected to it. The plates are the PTC/Thermister.
Removing the capacitor:
Pulling the connector with plates:
Step 6: Hold the part with the 2 plates using some "helping hands" or with your needle nose pliers and a rubber band. Solder a bead bridging the two copper plates across the top.
Step 7: Re-install the thermister plate and re-connect the capacitor.
Step 8: Re-install the brushes but do not install the springs yet.
Step 9: Insert the armature into the base then install the brush springs.
Step 10: Be sure to line up the can properly. Wide on wide narrow on narrow. Be sure to also install the rubber gasket onto the base. It will get stuck if you don't. Hold the armature with your finger and bring the can over top of it. Be sure to hold it firmly, Otherwise it will pinch your finger or pull out the armature. If that happens go back to step 9. In one movement remove your finger and slam down the can onto the base. DO NOT FORCE IT!
Lining up the can:
Holding the armature with your finger:
Step 11: Re-install the motor onto the regulator and test on the car. The motor should turn nice and strong with no slowdown.
