does anybody know how to install an amp to the factory radio?
RSN09CS
any amp i have ever installed required an "amp control wire" which i doubt the factory deck has, also most amps hook to the deck via rca cables which again i doubt the deck has... if you are going to the trouble of installing an amp why not drop in an aftermarket deck? plus if you did manage to hook the amp up to your factory head unit i doubt the cheap oem speakers would last long with the xtra power output
I just put an amp and Speaskers in my 09, XRS. It's a piece of cake. Well sort off. First buy aftermarket wiring harness from metra, both for the radio and to go into the main harnes. This way you wont have to cut any factory wires. Get an amp like the alpine MF 300 50x4 it has High level inputs to run from your rasdio. As far an remote turn on, my Factory Nav had one, you can use a wire for a power ant also. then do all your hooh up to the non oem harnesses. run all your speaker wire to the amp, (I put mine under the passanger seat.) then back to the radio under the carpet along the passanger door.
I would if I wre yopu replace the speakers ass well or there is no sense to put the amp in because the factory speakers can't handle the power.
Boy does mine sound great...100 time better than stock. It rattles my spoiler outside and I don'r have a sub. Hope this helps.
I would if I wre yopu replace the speakers ass well or there is no sense to put the amp in because the factory speakers can't handle the power.
Boy does mine sound great...100 time better than stock. It rattles my spoiler outside and I don'r have a sub. Hope this helps.
OK I'm no expert but I read that if your going to install a AMP to the Factory head unit. You MUST install something like the JL-Clean Sweep between the OEM unit and the AMP because you can't send 14Watt signals to the AMP ALSO the JL Clean Sweep will allow a user to modify the clarity so the sound coming from the factory head unit will sound great! What it does is it makes the music coming from the factory head unit level like a straight line and then the Amp is better able to amplify he tones..
![Image]()
CleanSweep®CL441dsp
CL-SSI
CL-SES
CL-RLC
![Image]()
CL-SSI
CL-SES
CL-RLC
That's cool I was considering doing the same thing too. (Amp to the factory navigation) So wanted to hear what people had to say about this subject.
I'm looking to finish my install and I am having trouble deciding which wire to hook the remote turn on wire for the amp to. I only see one gray wire as mentioned and it's involved with another cluster of wires that goes into the deck. I'm tempted to try it but a little hesitant
EDIT: The gray wire I tried did end up working.
EDIT: The gray wire I tried did end up working.
How do you know the stock stereo output is 14W?
Since the stock stereo's output has been amplified. It might not be a good idea to convert its output into line out and amplify it. You will lose audio clarity in double amp and conversion. No numbers on how much loss, but it depends on your requirements.:headbang:
Since the stock stereo's output has been amplified. It might not be a good idea to convert its output into line out and amplify it. You will lose audio clarity in double amp and conversion. No numbers on how much loss, but it depends on your requirements.:headbang:
You can hook up an amp to the OEM head unit by using the OEM speaker wires for inputs.
(You don’t have to use a processor to hook up an amp to the factory head unit. There are processors from at least half a dozen manufacturers, and one of them may be right for your particular setup, to provide an improvement for what you want to do with your audio system - if you want to spend extra bucks. You can investigate and add one later if you think you need it.)
You need either a Line Output Converter (LOC) (about $15 for a Scosche 2 channel at Crutchfield) and regular amp, or an amplifier that will accept high or line level inputs (i.e. built-in LOC). There are a good number of choices with high or line level inputs, and if you want to find some quick, check out the Crutchfield catalog amp comparison chart. Some amps require some speaker-wire-to-RCA adapters (Crutchfield sells a JL Audio 2 channel adapter for about $10).
I agree with others that using stock speakers with an add-on amp will probably end up destroying the stock speakers, so you will want to replace them, at least the front components. To replace the fronts and rears you need to be looking at 4 channel amps (for simpler hookup choosing those with line level inputs). For the front speakers I would recommend you go to the Crutchfield website and see which 6.5" component speakers fit your car, watching out of how deep they go into the door from surface mounting. Then you can determine a maximum speaker depth, to go shopping around for other speaker selections. (Maybe someone here already knows the maximum speaker depth of the 10th generation Corollas from experience.)
If you get a bridgeable 4/3/2 four channel amp with enough power, you can always disconnect the rear fill speakers and bridge the rear channels to drive a trunk subwoofer in the future, if you want deep bass.
The amplifier power output ratings can be deceptively high on some manufacturers stated specs. I look at the power ratings at 4 ohms that typically seem to be rated at around 14 volts. It is the ratings at about 12 volts that are about the most conservative. The Cadence amps are rated in both voltage ranges, so you can see the conservative 12 Volt power is about 20 or 30 percent lower than 14 Volt ratings.
So I would recommend looking at the conservative ratings to more closely compare amplifier power to match your speaker requirements.
Another thing to look at is the amp fuse rating, for example. An amplifier that only requires 20 Amps is not going to have the power potential of an amp rated at 80 amps no matter what the manufacturers’ state as power output. There are other ratings, such as low THD (<1%) that are sometimes provided that are also important, but sizing up the amps real power potential is the first screening factor for me.
Also, here is a handy site for choosing sellers that don’t abuse their customers with fraudulent practices.
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/onlinecarstereo
Here are a couple of well-rated sellers to start with. Crutchfield (internet) has loads of information and help and is typically close to retail pricing. Woofers, etc. (internet) is a well-rated deep-discount seller with a wide variety of brands and items.
http://www.crutchfield.com/
http://www.woofersetc.com/
(You don’t have to use a processor to hook up an amp to the factory head unit. There are processors from at least half a dozen manufacturers, and one of them may be right for your particular setup, to provide an improvement for what you want to do with your audio system - if you want to spend extra bucks. You can investigate and add one later if you think you need it.)
You need either a Line Output Converter (LOC) (about $15 for a Scosche 2 channel at Crutchfield) and regular amp, or an amplifier that will accept high or line level inputs (i.e. built-in LOC). There are a good number of choices with high or line level inputs, and if you want to find some quick, check out the Crutchfield catalog amp comparison chart. Some amps require some speaker-wire-to-RCA adapters (Crutchfield sells a JL Audio 2 channel adapter for about $10).
I agree with others that using stock speakers with an add-on amp will probably end up destroying the stock speakers, so you will want to replace them, at least the front components. To replace the fronts and rears you need to be looking at 4 channel amps (for simpler hookup choosing those with line level inputs). For the front speakers I would recommend you go to the Crutchfield website and see which 6.5" component speakers fit your car, watching out of how deep they go into the door from surface mounting. Then you can determine a maximum speaker depth, to go shopping around for other speaker selections. (Maybe someone here already knows the maximum speaker depth of the 10th generation Corollas from experience.)
If you get a bridgeable 4/3/2 four channel amp with enough power, you can always disconnect the rear fill speakers and bridge the rear channels to drive a trunk subwoofer in the future, if you want deep bass.
The amplifier power output ratings can be deceptively high on some manufacturers stated specs. I look at the power ratings at 4 ohms that typically seem to be rated at around 14 volts. It is the ratings at about 12 volts that are about the most conservative. The Cadence amps are rated in both voltage ranges, so you can see the conservative 12 Volt power is about 20 or 30 percent lower than 14 Volt ratings.
So I would recommend looking at the conservative ratings to more closely compare amplifier power to match your speaker requirements.
Another thing to look at is the amp fuse rating, for example. An amplifier that only requires 20 Amps is not going to have the power potential of an amp rated at 80 amps no matter what the manufacturers’ state as power output. There are other ratings, such as low THD (<1%) that are sometimes provided that are also important, but sizing up the amps real power potential is the first screening factor for me.
Also, here is a handy site for choosing sellers that don’t abuse their customers with fraudulent practices.
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/onlinecarstereo
Here are a couple of well-rated sellers to start with. Crutchfield (internet) has loads of information and help and is typically close to retail pricing. Woofers, etc. (internet) is a well-rated deep-discount seller with a wide variety of brands and items.
http://www.crutchfield.com/
http://www.woofersetc.com/
I have a 2007 Camry and have installed an amp and subs using a line out converter in the trunk and now am ready to replace the stock door and rear deck speakers to run off a second amp. Can anyone tell me how to get to the back of the deck to hook up the second amp and can the amp be hooked up to the speaker wires at the back of the deck or do I need to buy some kind of aftermarket rca hook up?
OLD thread, I know.... but hey, it's on topic...
Replying to:
The Remote Turn On lead (which turns the amp on when the radio is on) connects to this wire: Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Gray
which gray wire or on which of the four harnesses
Replying to:
The Remote Turn On lead (which turns the amp on when the radio is on) connects to this wire: Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Gray
which gray wire or on which of the four harnesses
ok nobody listen to this JMSPORTS guy. He doesn't know what he's talking about. You can not splice an amp into your speaker wires coming out of your deck, well you can but then you will have to go buy a new deck because you will fry the speaker outputs. I know this from personal experience with a buddy of mine. There are adapters to wire in rca to your factory deck but they are junk. You are better off just going and buying an aftermarket stereo, get a dash kit and a wiring harness to plug directling into the factory wireharness and wiring the to your new aftermarket deck harness and pluging it in. And if you really don't know what your doing go talk to your local stero/sound store and ask them what all you need and how much they would charge to hook it up. because it really is a process.
If you are hooking an amp up to the factory HU, you will have to inline splice 8 wires in the 10pin and 6 pin connectors on the back of your HU. These are the audio. +/- front and rear, left and right.
![Image]()
in the 10 pin:
Right Front + Green
Right Front - Dark Blue
Left Front + Pink
Left Front - Purple
In the 6 pin:
Right Rear + Red
Right Rear - White
Left Rear + Black
Left Rear - Yellow
The Brown wire in the 10 pin connector should work as a remote turn on, but I didn't use it, so I can't say for certain. I used a Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 And I mounted it like so, behind my glove box.
![Image]()
This amp doesn't need a remote wire when used with a high level input.
My sub used a high level input also, with a PBR300x1 amp, and I just tapped the stock speaker wires at the back to get the signal.
![Image]()
![Image]()
You want to tap the wires, not cut them. That way, if you need them, you can use the stock tweeters, and you will be able to tap into the rear speaker wires to feed the sub.
in the 10 pin:
Right Front + Green
Right Front - Dark Blue
Left Front + Pink
Left Front - Purple
In the 6 pin:
Right Rear + Red
Right Rear - White
Left Rear + Black
Left Rear - Yellow
The Brown wire in the 10 pin connector should work as a remote turn on, but I didn't use it, so I can't say for certain. I used a Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 And I mounted it like so, behind my glove box.
This amp doesn't need a remote wire when used with a high level input.
My sub used a high level input also, with a PBR300x1 amp, and I just tapped the stock speaker wires at the back to get the signal.
You want to tap the wires, not cut them. That way, if you need them, you can use the stock tweeters, and you will be able to tap into the rear speaker wires to feed the sub.
Don't let the compact size of the boosted rail amps fool you, they kick ass. They are so small because they don't use a 24 volt transformer. The PBR500x1 mono amp was released recently, if you want to go for a little more power. It would be perfect for a pair of P3d4's run parallel over parallel for a 1 ohm load.
OK, I am going to splice into rear speakers for signal since the amp has high level quick plug input with 4 wires. My only question now is since the stock deck will have no subwoofer separate volume control, will the low bypass decibel selection settings on the amp itself be ok for sub-base clarity and volume control???
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
