Hey guys, back at it with another DIY. This time we are going to upgrade those crappy front door speakers to some nice new ones. It is pretty easy and should only take an hour or so.
Difficulty: 3/10
Time: 1-2 Hours
Cost: 50+ USD (depending on speaker selection)
Risk: Low-Moderate
Special tools? Yes. If using factory mount, Dremel is required. If using adapters no.
This guide is to install 6.5 inch speakers so I recommend those.
I bought a pair of JBL GX602 Coax speaker from best buy, they were on sale for about 110 bucks.
I don't know if there are different install instructions for component speakers, do a little research if that's what you want, but these sound great to me. If there are other procedures for component and you want to share in the comments i'll edit this section.
EDIT:
"Component speakers are indeed more complex.
Toyota runs the wiring from the HU to the tweeters, then from the tweeters to the mids.
The thing is, the in and out at the tweeter are connected on the tweeter side of the speaker connector... unplug the tweeter and you've disconnected the mid too!
The solution is to cut the tweeter itself away from the harness and insulate the cuts. This feeds the full signal to the mids, and the wire can then be redirected to the input of the crossover." -cb91710
![Image]()
Required tools/supplies: (*optional)
![Image]()
Phillips screwdriver.
Drill with drill bit:
Used for drilling out rivets that hold in the door speakers. Yes I said rivets, Come on Toyota! Pick a drill bit that is just bigger than the size of the hole in the rivet, or a step drill bit. You can also get a phillips tip on this for faster unscrewing.
Plastic pry tool:
Used to remove door trim and pieces.
Dremel*:
If you are using speaker adapters you will not need this. I used a cut off wheel attachment and the sanding attachment.
Wire strippers and speaker wire.
Soldering Iron*:
Not required but highly recommended. Used to attach speaker wire to new wire.
Hammer and scraper/chisel/flathead:
This may be necessary to remove parts of the rivet that stay in the door. You may just ream out the rivet with your drill bit as well.
Self tap screws:
Used to screw new speakers in, you may also used rivets or screws and retainers if provided by your speaker kit.
Safety Glasses.*
Speaker Wire.* (about a foot, more if using adapters)
Speaker mount adapters*:
The holes in the car are too big to fit 6.5 speakers. You can used speaker adapters to make them fit or sacrifice the old speakers to mount them, I did this.
So step 1 is to remove the door panels. There are two screws underneath the vertical handle, start from the bottom cutout and pry it outward, working your way to the top and unscrew the two phillips screws. Remove the leather arm rest insert by prying upward, releasing any or the tabs that get stuck by pushing them inward. Pry up the lock/window panel by starting from the back and prying up, after all clips are released slide it towards the back of the car. Unplug the related wiring harnesses by pushing the retaining tabs down and pulling the wire out. Pop off the small cover in the door handle cup and unscrew the phillips screw. Remove any other visible screws and pop off the tweeter cover by pulling it away from the door. To remove the panel start from the bottom and pry it outward, it may be very stiff just give it a good yank. Work you way up and then slide the panel up when all of the clips are popped. Remove the two cables that attach to the lock and handle. Slide the cable away from the panel then up and out, refer to picture. Unplug the wire for the light and set the panel aside.
Instructions and pictures from my other guide:
The doors are pretty simple, there is a small screw underneath a cover where the handle is to open the door, use a small screwdriver or pick to pop the cover open and unscrew.
![Image]()
Next you will want to remove the 'leather insert. The pry upward and are held in with plastic clips. I found that all of the clips came out nice but the back ones sometimes got caught, there are small tabs that hold the panel in and if it won't come out you can try brute force or release the tabs with something, I used a 90 pick tool because the tabs face the outside towards the car.
![Image]()
Next you will need to remove the plastic piece that runs vertically up the door, where the handle is to close it. Start from the small cutout on the bottom and work your way up releasing the clips. After that is off, unscrew the two large phillips inside.
![Image]()
Remove the tweeter covers by just pulling towards you, there is one small white clip holding them in, I chose to let them dangle but just be careful not to shut the door on them.
Remove the electrical panel where the door locks and window controls are by prying up starting at the back where the leather insert was and work your way to the front, then slide it backwards as it tucks under the front. The back ones just pry up, remove screws beneath. Unplug the harnesses by releasing the tabs. The front ones were kind of a pain you have to push the tab then slide up a lock before it will come out.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Now that everything is off, to remove the actual door panel, you need to start from the bottom and pull it out, you can try getting your fingers under it or use a pry tool to get it started, it should pop out, it may be very hard, just make sure you have all of the screws out. After it is out you will need to remove any plugs and the pulleys for the handle and lock. To remove those there is a small tab that hold it to the door, just pull that outward and then move the pulley until the ball releases from the lock and handle. Green is the handle and white is the lock.
![Image]()
Now we need to get the speakers out. Drill out the rivets or use the hammer and scraper getting it in between the speaker mount and the door panel. I recommend the drill over the hammer/scraper. Unplug it and continue.
![Image]()
You may have parts of the rivet left in after, used your drill and continue to ream them out. I recommend that you roll your window up in case your drill slips. You can also used the hammer and scraper technique if you want.
If you are using adapters just screw your speaker into that, figure out a way to wire them up and screw it in, if you are using the mounts, continue the next steps. My speaker came with them but I didn't know that until I was done, LOL. Whatever.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Now because we are going to stack the speaker on the existing bracket, you need to trim the door panel a little bit, with the new speaker on top it hits. You will need to cut the little ring off of the door panel using your dremel like so. Take as much as you feel comfortable doing, more the better, and set the door panel on making sure it fits.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
If you are sacrificing your old speakers you will first need to rip out the cone of the old ones.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Now you have a choice, if you want to used to wires that are inside of the mount remove them from the cone, if you are using new wires just rip them out or unsolder them, cut them whatever you want, unsoldering is the safest way.
![Image]()
Next use your dremel to remove as much of the center as you can, the cross braces and the magnet. I used the cutoff wheel for the bulk of it then used the sander to smooth it out.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
After it is all cleaned out your new speaker should sit right on top of the foam. I screwed mine down with some small self tapping screws, make sure that where you screw in has plastic behind it, there are some spots under the foam that are empty so be mindful of that.
![Image]()
If you are using new wires you will want to tin them now, tinning is the process of loading up the stripped wires with solder to make it easier to solder them to the tabs. Just melt some solder on like this.
![Image]()
Now you need to wire up your speaker to the little tabs. I used new wire but you can use the old wire if you want. Make sure that you wire both sides the same. Looking down into it I did positive on the left and ground on the right. I don't think it matters as long as they are wired the same. Someone correct me if I am wrong and I will edit this portion.
![Image]()
![Image]()
When your speaker is all hooked up plug it into the car and test it. Make sure the wire going to the tweeter is plugged in your your speaker will not get a signal. Once you know it works set it in with the plug facing up towards the wire and attach with your preferred method. I used self tappers like so, offsetting to make sure I didn't go back into the empty holes.
![Image]()
I also upgraded the rear speakers to the same JBL speakers but in 6x9 (GX963). Install was much easier so probably won't make a guide on those but if you can't figure it out ask me and I can help ya out.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Do whatever else you need to do and put it back together, enjoy your new upgraded speakers.
List of all of my DIY's:
How to upgrade your front door speakers.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1326313-how-upgrade-your-front-door-speakers.html
How to install a QI wireless charger hidden inside the dash cubby.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1313225-how-install-qi-wireless-charger-hidden-inside-dash-cubby.html#post10926033
How to paint the interior trim accent pieces.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1323121-how-paint-interior-trim-accent-pieces-your-rolla-project-red-part-1-a.html
How to install the OEM Mudguards.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1317641-how-install-oem-mudguards-your-2014-toyota-corolla.html#post10963009
Difficulty: 3/10
Time: 1-2 Hours
Cost: 50+ USD (depending on speaker selection)
Risk: Low-Moderate
Special tools? Yes. If using factory mount, Dremel is required. If using adapters no.
This guide is to install 6.5 inch speakers so I recommend those.
I bought a pair of JBL GX602 Coax speaker from best buy, they were on sale for about 110 bucks.
I don't know if there are different install instructions for component speakers, do a little research if that's what you want, but these sound great to me. If there are other procedures for component and you want to share in the comments i'll edit this section.
EDIT:
"Component speakers are indeed more complex.
Toyota runs the wiring from the HU to the tweeters, then from the tweeters to the mids.
The thing is, the in and out at the tweeter are connected on the tweeter side of the speaker connector... unplug the tweeter and you've disconnected the mid too!
The solution is to cut the tweeter itself away from the harness and insulate the cuts. This feeds the full signal to the mids, and the wire can then be redirected to the input of the crossover." -cb91710
Required tools/supplies: (*optional)
Phillips screwdriver.
Drill with drill bit:
Used for drilling out rivets that hold in the door speakers. Yes I said rivets, Come on Toyota! Pick a drill bit that is just bigger than the size of the hole in the rivet, or a step drill bit. You can also get a phillips tip on this for faster unscrewing.
Plastic pry tool:
Used to remove door trim and pieces.
Dremel*:
If you are using speaker adapters you will not need this. I used a cut off wheel attachment and the sanding attachment.
Wire strippers and speaker wire.
Soldering Iron*:
Not required but highly recommended. Used to attach speaker wire to new wire.
Hammer and scraper/chisel/flathead:
This may be necessary to remove parts of the rivet that stay in the door. You may just ream out the rivet with your drill bit as well.
Self tap screws:
Used to screw new speakers in, you may also used rivets or screws and retainers if provided by your speaker kit.
Safety Glasses.*
Speaker Wire.* (about a foot, more if using adapters)
Speaker mount adapters*:
The holes in the car are too big to fit 6.5 speakers. You can used speaker adapters to make them fit or sacrifice the old speakers to mount them, I did this.
So step 1 is to remove the door panels. There are two screws underneath the vertical handle, start from the bottom cutout and pry it outward, working your way to the top and unscrew the two phillips screws. Remove the leather arm rest insert by prying upward, releasing any or the tabs that get stuck by pushing them inward. Pry up the lock/window panel by starting from the back and prying up, after all clips are released slide it towards the back of the car. Unplug the related wiring harnesses by pushing the retaining tabs down and pulling the wire out. Pop off the small cover in the door handle cup and unscrew the phillips screw. Remove any other visible screws and pop off the tweeter cover by pulling it away from the door. To remove the panel start from the bottom and pry it outward, it may be very stiff just give it a good yank. Work you way up and then slide the panel up when all of the clips are popped. Remove the two cables that attach to the lock and handle. Slide the cable away from the panel then up and out, refer to picture. Unplug the wire for the light and set the panel aside.
Instructions and pictures from my other guide:
The doors are pretty simple, there is a small screw underneath a cover where the handle is to open the door, use a small screwdriver or pick to pop the cover open and unscrew.
Next you will want to remove the 'leather insert. The pry upward and are held in with plastic clips. I found that all of the clips came out nice but the back ones sometimes got caught, there are small tabs that hold the panel in and if it won't come out you can try brute force or release the tabs with something, I used a 90 pick tool because the tabs face the outside towards the car.
Next you will need to remove the plastic piece that runs vertically up the door, where the handle is to close it. Start from the small cutout on the bottom and work your way up releasing the clips. After that is off, unscrew the two large phillips inside.
Remove the tweeter covers by just pulling towards you, there is one small white clip holding them in, I chose to let them dangle but just be careful not to shut the door on them.
Remove the electrical panel where the door locks and window controls are by prying up starting at the back where the leather insert was and work your way to the front, then slide it backwards as it tucks under the front. The back ones just pry up, remove screws beneath. Unplug the harnesses by releasing the tabs. The front ones were kind of a pain you have to push the tab then slide up a lock before it will come out.
Now that everything is off, to remove the actual door panel, you need to start from the bottom and pull it out, you can try getting your fingers under it or use a pry tool to get it started, it should pop out, it may be very hard, just make sure you have all of the screws out. After it is out you will need to remove any plugs and the pulleys for the handle and lock. To remove those there is a small tab that hold it to the door, just pull that outward and then move the pulley until the ball releases from the lock and handle. Green is the handle and white is the lock.
Now we need to get the speakers out. Drill out the rivets or use the hammer and scraper getting it in between the speaker mount and the door panel. I recommend the drill over the hammer/scraper. Unplug it and continue.
You may have parts of the rivet left in after, used your drill and continue to ream them out. I recommend that you roll your window up in case your drill slips. You can also used the hammer and scraper technique if you want.
If you are using adapters just screw your speaker into that, figure out a way to wire them up and screw it in, if you are using the mounts, continue the next steps. My speaker came with them but I didn't know that until I was done, LOL. Whatever.
Now because we are going to stack the speaker on the existing bracket, you need to trim the door panel a little bit, with the new speaker on top it hits. You will need to cut the little ring off of the door panel using your dremel like so. Take as much as you feel comfortable doing, more the better, and set the door panel on making sure it fits.
If you are sacrificing your old speakers you will first need to rip out the cone of the old ones.
Now you have a choice, if you want to used to wires that are inside of the mount remove them from the cone, if you are using new wires just rip them out or unsolder them, cut them whatever you want, unsoldering is the safest way.
Next use your dremel to remove as much of the center as you can, the cross braces and the magnet. I used the cutoff wheel for the bulk of it then used the sander to smooth it out.
After it is all cleaned out your new speaker should sit right on top of the foam. I screwed mine down with some small self tapping screws, make sure that where you screw in has plastic behind it, there are some spots under the foam that are empty so be mindful of that.
If you are using new wires you will want to tin them now, tinning is the process of loading up the stripped wires with solder to make it easier to solder them to the tabs. Just melt some solder on like this.
Now you need to wire up your speaker to the little tabs. I used new wire but you can use the old wire if you want. Make sure that you wire both sides the same. Looking down into it I did positive on the left and ground on the right. I don't think it matters as long as they are wired the same. Someone correct me if I am wrong and I will edit this portion.
When your speaker is all hooked up plug it into the car and test it. Make sure the wire going to the tweeter is plugged in your your speaker will not get a signal. Once you know it works set it in with the plug facing up towards the wire and attach with your preferred method. I used self tappers like so, offsetting to make sure I didn't go back into the empty holes.
I also upgraded the rear speakers to the same JBL speakers but in 6x9 (GX963). Install was much easier so probably won't make a guide on those but if you can't figure it out ask me and I can help ya out.
Do whatever else you need to do and put it back together, enjoy your new upgraded speakers.
List of all of my DIY's:
How to upgrade your front door speakers.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1326313-how-upgrade-your-front-door-speakers.html
How to install a QI wireless charger hidden inside the dash cubby.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1313225-how-install-qi-wireless-charger-hidden-inside-dash-cubby.html#post10926033
How to paint the interior trim accent pieces.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1323121-how-paint-interior-trim-accent-pieces-your-rolla-project-red-part-1-a.html
How to install the OEM Mudguards.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/377-11th-gen-corolla-2014-scion-im-2016/1317641-how-install-oem-mudguards-your-2014-toyota-corolla.html#post10963009
