I have always used what's called a flavor injector. Simple fluid syringe. Most power steering systems will only take less than a quart of fluid. Simply suck up fluid until it's almost all removed from the reservoir then refill with new. Do this several times and you will have exchanged all fluid.

 

I jack the front of the vehicle and use the rack itself (engine off) to pump fluid through (cycle steering lock to lock, engine off). Catch old fluid at return line... top up reservoir as you go.

 

Best way is to just siphon and refill. Hose and gravity siphon work fine. Repeat at every oil change interval. No flushing is ever needed.

 

Periodic siphon and refill would be better than waiting years and then do a full flush.

However, if the system is dirty and you want to do an initial complete replacement, here is another variant. By turning the steering wheel (engine off) lock to lock, you also pump out a lot of the old fluid that would be in the two chambers in the rack and would be my preferred method.

DIY: Power Steering Fluid Flush/Exchange

Flushing the power steering system on most vehicles is pretty straight forward. There are DIYs for other models and I think it's time for one here. The rack on my 2002 Camry was starting to leak on the passenger side, expected after 158K miles. On this model, Toyota filled the P/S system with...

www.toyotanation.com

 

Hey, just like I posted in November 2017. Haha. Haya....

syncreation, all: Here is a write up I put together for replacing power steering fluid using a vacuum extractor. The one I have is an electric vacuum pump but this would work with a manual or air operated type too. Good luck, Haya....

Power steering fluid replacement-2003 Toyota Highlander

This method uses a vacuum pump and catch-can to evacuate the old fluid from the system while simultaneously replacing it with new fluid, all in a few steps. Takes only about 20 minutes and is a very clean way to do this with few if any drips.

It works better if the vehicle is up to normal operating temperature, although it can be done cold. Just takes longer. Optionally, drive the car for a few miles to warm things up first.

Tools and apparatus:
-Vacuum pump, 2-gallon extraction catch-can, 6 feet 3/8 inch polyethylene vacuum hose

-10 inch vice grips, standard type

-12 inch length of 3/8 in. ID polyethylene or rubber hose

Supplies:
-Shop towels

-Two (2) one-quart bottles of NAPA Power Steering Fluid No. 9832

1. Open the reservoir cap and remove the dipstick. Through the top, use the vacuum extractor hose to draw down the power steering reservoir fluid level to just below the return line elevation. (The return line is the rubber hose attached to the SIDE port of the reservoir. It is secured with a spring-type clamp.)
2. Now remove the car’s power steering return hose from the side port of the reservoir. Vice grips work nicely to grip the ears of the spring clamp. Just slide it out of the way and pull the hose off using a twisting motion. Have a shop towel handy to catch any drips.
3. Connect the vacuum hose to the return hose. You may have to fashion an adapter depending on actual hose thickness, etc. See diagram below.
4. Instead of a stopper for the reservoir side port, attach a 12 inch length of 3/8 in ID hose to the port and position the hose so the opposite end is higher than the top of the reservoir so fluid cannot spill out. See diagram below.
5. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid.
6. Turn on the vacuum pump while at the ready with fresh fluid. The vacuum extractor will draw out the old fluid from the entire system while drawing in new fluid from the reservoir. Re-fill the reservoir as you go.
7. After approximately ½ a quart of new fluid has been drawn in stop the vacuum and fill the reservoir again.
8. Start the engine and rotate the wheel full left and full right twice each direction.This will allow old fluid in the steering rack to be displaced with new. Keep an eye on the reservoir level while cranking the wheel. Or better yet have an assistant take the driver’s seat. Keep adding fluid to the reservoir as needed during this phase of the procedure.
9. Center the wheel and shut off the engine.
10. Go back to running the vacuum pump. Displace two more reservoir volumes. You may need the second bottle of fluid now. Save (reserve) ½ quart of fluid for later.
11. Stop the vacuum pump after allowing the fluid level in the reservoir to drop to the elevation of the side port. Not too low as air might be drawn into the system. Avoid drawing in air.
12. Disconnect the vacuum extractor hose.
13. Using the reservoir side port, drain any remaining fluid via the 12 inch 3/8 ID hose, then remove it and reattach the car’s normal power steering return hose. Apply the spring clamp. Have a towel handy during the switch.
14. Refill the reservoir to the indicator line on the side. Replace the dipstick and cap.
15. Start the car and observe reservoir level, top-up to line as needed. Done.

 

Can i use this for ATF & PSF?

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...com/ip/Castrol-Transmax-DEX-MERC-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon/17253576

 

Yes, you can use Castrol. But why use obsolete pathetic ATF? Pick a full synthetic for an upgrade for a rarely maintained and forgotten fluid.

 

Just to be clear, the specification for the PS fluid and the ATF are different. ATF for the transmission needs to be T-IV. Some members prefer T-IV equivalent synthetic. I would not use any ATF that said it is compatible with both T-IV and WS specifications because of the difference in viscosity, but that is personal choice.

 

Thank you all!
Could you guys post here which exact fluids you use for your ATF and PSF so inexperienced members like me can benefit from?

 

Transmission fluid
Aisin, from rockauto
Amsoil, Redline, Royalpurple online order
Castrol/Valvoline Import from any local autopart store
Prestone Platinum HM ATF... check lowes or homedepot

Since the power steering uses ATF, any of the above can be used too, and can toss in Mobil1.

But, I prefer a full synthetic Asian PSF without dyes, or not red, to differentiate leaks. Prestone, Gunk, Bardahl, Peak... made full synthetic Asian PSF's without the coloring over the years. Amsoil, Redline, Royalpurple, Lubegard also have synth PSF but some come dyed.

 

ATF: Toyota T-IV
PSF: whatever DEXRON III is on sale.
Coolant: only Toyota Super Long Life in my 2005 and Toyota Long Life in my 2001.

 

I use toyota type IV in my trans. I change the fluid and filter every 60k and it's going strong at 285,000 miles. You could probably stretch that out to 100k intervals with synthetic. I like maxx life synthetic in the power steering, but if wal mart doesn't have any it gets whatever they do have. I empty the reservoir and refill at every oil change. My preferred method of doing that is to unhook the lower line and let it drain into a quart oil container I've cut open to make a catch can. The coolant overflow pops right up out of the way to make that easier.

 

Thanks guys!!!