Does your Camry have an immobilizer?
Perhaps that's preventing the spark...

 

I don't think so. It was slowly coming to this stage. Now doing step by step analysis. Had to buy another multimeter last night, so next step is to check the 2 wire connector to see if it's getting power

 

It has an OBDll port, do you have a scan tool?? Most likely it will pull up a crap load of trouble codes??

 

This one is a 95, so obd1. Fortunately I have a few more tests left

 

Oh no OBDii well that sucks. Time for plan B! No spark .... well screw the "fancy tools! Just pull the number one plug wire and place the tip of a screw away from the end of the plug wire and have some "bump it over." You have to have fuel, spark and air ... and yeah if one of those is missing, you have a problem???

Oh and what motor is this, I'm a 22r, 4efe, 22r and 22rte (kinda) and 3ee/5efe and 4efte guy. 92 (modded) Tercel, kinda guy.

 

Sorry its the 5SFE

peak to see if the tb is broken and if not, pull the cover and line it up to see if it's off a couple of teeth.
tony

TB is pretty fresh, plus the engine usually makes a fast sounding cranking noise when the tb is snapped


So far i have tested the power to the ignition coil (2 wire connector) and the ignitor. both within the 10-12v range

I have checked the resistance of the ignition coil, and its within spec

I've seen some LED test where you can make your own little tester, but there's no radio shack or Fry's electronics near me. plus i'd rather buy a tool than make one at this point.

So now I'm stuck between the ignition coil not getting a spark, but is getting power.

 

Spark, compression, fuel = Power

 

peak to see if the tb is broken and if not, pull the cover and line it up to see if it's off a couple of teeth.
tony

 

Inspect the ignition coil for cracks, especially where it’s potted with epoxy. This is extremely common on these. If you find one, replace it.

 

Checked it, no visible cracks

 

Try cleaning up and putting back your old distributor rotor. My car has died on the freeway and wouldn't start with a faulty new rotor.

 

Well I could'nt find it but directly but I think your motor ODB1 has a diagnostic port by fuse box??

If so it would work like this. :

You'll need a repair manual to know what the codes mean and what to jumper.

 

Well I could'nt find it but directly but I think your motor ODB1 has a diagnostic port by fuse box??

Believe our old MR2s had ODB-I. You'd jumper E1 and Tc in the diag-port, and the engine light would blink for the engine codes.

We have the same ports on our '98 GS400, it's used to diag the ABS and VSC systems... same thing... jumper the ports. Then something like 8 brake-pumps in 5-sec to reset the ABS/VSV system codes, otherwise it's fast blink if no codes, or slow-flash all the codes.

 

24 year old electronics inside the ecm? get another one on ebay guaranteed to be not doa, same 10 digit model number, and plug it in.
tonyu

 

The answer is in post 7. One of those is "missing??" All three need to be "confirmed" before just replacing stuff. Swamping parts is easy, trouble shooting not so much??

 

Of course I've been troubleshooting, that's included in my initial post. Fuel is there, air is clearly there. No spark. Ignition coil and ignitor check out. Getting power to both. Fuses ok.

I've even swapped out a computer. What are the chances of having 2 bad computers??

 

Yea I'm usually ready to give up and how a mechanic, but for this car I really don't want to. I'll try the last few things, after that, it's game over

 

Remove distributor cap. Connect a test light between coil negative and battery positive and crank engine. If light flashes then you should have spark. Check noise suppressor in distributor. If it looks melted, could be the problem. Will cause a no spark situation.

 

where can i buy a proper test light? the ones i found were DIY or 12v versions