After you changed your receiver . you need to re-program your keys to pair with your new reciever. it's not plug and play.

start from 2:17
about your Tpms warning light. I was not able to turn it off. it looks like something is actived and it's not able to turn it off. so I have to buy 4 tpms sensors and put it in sealed pvc pipe and do the trick.

 

I would try programing the fob first before changing out the receiver. It is a possibility that the fob just lost communication to the transponder amplifier.

 

Thank you both for your quick replies. I just tried the registration process per the video above several times and no luck. There was no beep at the end, and the fobs still do not actuate the locks. I tried both keyfobs. I'm assuming I don't need the Techstream computer that the individual is using in the video - that is just being used to reference the steps and not required to be plugged into the car (I hope) . I have never had a keyless door lock system just stop working before on any vehicle. I really want to avoid the stealorship, but I might have to give up.

 

No. you don't need a techsteam computer just a personal laptop and search "techstream toyota" on Amazon. One thing I did when I change my door control receiver. I initialize the ecu like this video

But I am not 100% sure that matters .

 

But I am not 100% sure that matters .

Yikes! I don't think I'm brave enough to short out pins with a paper clip on the OBD2 connector that affect the ECU! Sounds like a good way to end up with a 3,000 lb paper weight in my garage!

But you are saying it does take special equipment to "talk" to the car to register the receiver. Which unit on Amazon did you buy - there seem to be many of them?

 

it's quite tricky to install the "software". but it's much cheaper.

 

This is just to program the master key to the ecu. Unless this applies to keys with the fob attached to the key head.

 

I'm not sure what you mean. My keyfob is actually a key that you put in the ignition switch and it also has the buttons on it to lock/unlock the doors and open the trunk (it looks exactly like the key in the video in Post #2 above). It works fine to start the car - it fails at everything else. When you say "this is just to program the master key to the ecu", does that mean this techstream toyota connector won't work for getting the keyless entry (doorlocks) registered properly? I am just about to order one... but now, maybe not?

 

Start at 2:00 mark.

 

Just to let everyone know how this ended. I bought the techstream toyota cable on Amazon that @jinzwjm recommended (btw I didn't have any problems installing the software, but I followed the directions very carefully). I tried to program my fobs using it, but no luck. Someone told me that Autozone had a "fob checker", so I took both of my keyfobs there, and the fob checker indicated that neither one of my fobs was transmitting a signal. Keep in mind, they both had a fresh battery in them. I was stumped - how could both fobs not be working? I carried one around with me all the time, but the other one was in a drawer in my house for the last five years practically untouched. I ordered a new keyfob on Ebay (about $15). It took about 1 minute to program it with the techstream cable, and it WORKS!!! So, I just opened the case and transfered the new working fob board into my old keyfob case (so I don't have to get the new key cut) and I'm back in business. I don't know how BOTH of my keyfobs stopped working at the same time, but they did. If I didn't know any better, I would think Toyota programmed them to shut down on a certain day, so I was "encouraged" to take my car into a dealership! Or maybe my neighborhood got blasted by an EMP from outer space that selectively only affected my two keyfobs! Whatever happened - it was strange. So, the lesson learned is don't assume that your backup fob is working if your primary fails - even if you change the batteries in both. It happened to me.

 

Congrats! Really happy to hear you fix the issue.
yeah. it was really strange for both keyfob stop working.

 

So, it turns out this was not the end of the story...
Yesterday, one of the new keyfobs stopped working. OMG, what the hell is going on? I took the battery out of it and voltmeter read 2.5v (this is a no-name chinese battery that the replacement Ebay keyfob came with). So, I thought aha, no problem, the dude on Ebay just gave me a bad battery, I'll put one of my "fresh" ones in...long story short, it still doesn't work. I remove the battery - check the voltage and it is 3.3v. - wtf? My wife is going to the grocery store about this time and I tell her to pick me up a new CR2016 battery just for the heck of it. The "fresh" batteries that I have been using to try to get these fobs working are Panasonics that I bought on Ebay at least 5 years ago, but they all have expiration dates of 12/2022, and every one of them that I have used has tested good with a voltmeter (approx. 3.3v). However, when my wife returns with a brand new Energizer, I installed it, and by God it worked. In fact, all 4 of my fobs now work! So, the moral of the story is (beside the fact that I'm a dumbass!), don't trust that a coin battery is good just because it has a good expiration date and the voltage tests good. Apparently, just like a car battery, they need to be load tested to be sure. Another lesson, don't buy a dozen of these and leave them in a drawer in the garage for 5 years - from now on, I will only buy on demand when needed. So, no Toyota corporate conspiracy against me - no alien space attack. At least I learned how to use Toyota Techstream and program a few options for my car - and I'm ready to register new TPMS sensors when the batteries die on them - there's the silver lining.

Here's a great idea of a load tester for these made from a clothes pin: Simple Battery Tester for Coin Cells

BTW, anyone wanna buy half dozen NOS CR2016 Panasonic coin cells - original packaging - Exp. 12/2022?

 

Good advice! About a year ago, I purchased a set of 4 Duracell CR2016 coin cell batteries. Each one of them was dead on arrival. Good expiration date and voltage, but the current (mA) was almost nonexistent.

 

I just posted information on a firmware update that will address your issues. Here is the link: Venza 2021+

 

I just posted information on a firmware update that will address your issues. Here is the link: Venza 2021+

My issue was just bad batteries (not a firmware issue)...and I have a Corolla - not a Venza. ???

 

Thanks so much for your posts here. I had the same issue with my key fobs and after lots of googling and online diy solution videos, I was about to give up and just go to the dealership. My brother found your post and shared it with me. I had replaced my old batteries with those Panasonic batteries too (I bought it from amazon and they were not expired), but I figured it wouldn't hurt to try out one more solution. So I went to pick up some Energizer batteries and both of my keys now work! I can't believe it! THANK YOU SO MUCH for taking the time to post your solution!

 

This is unbelievable! Just like @Redc@r, I have been googling solutions for this same problem. This happened before where I just replaced the remote battery and it started working again. But this time, I must have used a spare battery that have been sitting in my drawer for awhile. The thing is, the spare Master key which I do not use and been in the closet as well that used to work also stopped working. I even went to the dealership because I was desperate and thought my DCR (door control receiver) went bad and need to be replaced. I also spent a lot of time researching problems with DCRs as well. I did not find a lot of results with it and so I thought that it may not be the problem. So, finally I brought it to the dealer, checked the batteries of both my Master key and said they are "both good" and so proposed that they do a diagnosis for $300 and possible re-programming for another $600! I said no, of course. So, I went to eBay last night and ordered a new $18 door locking system that I was going to install - that now I will have to return. Today, I bought 2 new 2016 Energizer batteries and replaced for both key fobs. One works and one doesn't. That's good enough for me. I only need one. The other may probably just need to be reprogrammed which I will try next. Both old batteries were at 3.03 volts. The new ones were at 3.2v. That small gap made a lot of difference. This was for my 2015 Highlander LE. Thank you so much for this post!!