i got some time today and started to measure my scrub radius. its all rough measurements. even though it was rough measurements it did give me very good insight in what my actual scrub radius is around.

heres a picture from the toyota manual, it seems that with +39 6"wide wheels and a 185/60/14 tire. the oem setup seems to have zero to a minimal scrub radius. now im using a 8" wide wheel with a +20 offset on 205/50/16 with a MRP RCA kit, now this is going to change the scrub radius a bit.

so now how does the scrub radius of your car change? well it can change depending on the wheel offset or your SAI (simply put your strut angle). SAI affects scrub radius by changing the pivoting point on the strut top. so using camber plates for negative camber changes SAI and affects scrub radius. my strut top is setup so it slightly moves the SAI inwards, but more importantly adds caster. with this and some other mods i recall my caster atm is somewhere around 3.7-4 degrees positve caster. with the rca kit and the camber on the knuckle adjusted for full camber i have -1.7 degrees of camber, before the rca this would bring me to about -2.5 degrees camber. -1.7 degrees of negative camber isnt bad for a street setup with proper geometry. i choose not to go over -2.5 because when chosing an alignment setting its important to consider if you want a setup that accelerates and brakes well, but corners decent. or if you want an alignment that gives you decent accleration and braking grip, but adds more to your cornering speeds. in the case of the ae92 its FWD so it is already trying to defy the traction circle lol. it can corner good, but it will take alot to bring it close to a rwd car, this is due to the characteristics of FWD.

the 1st step is getting a good reference point for how wide your wheels are. use a stright edge long enough to run across the whole wheel. mark it at multiple points, and on both sides. the important thing here is so once you take the wheel off you have a more accurate refference point to find the wheel/tire centerline. its not important to get the contact patch.

so the 2nd step in setting up everything for measuring was making sure the car without the wheels on was at the ride height you want. and to make sure your control arm angle is at the same height it is with the wheels on. a couple blocks of wood and some jacks and its set.

now when i went and measured, i measure the centerline of the pivoting points, in the case of the control arm the center of the bolt and the center of the spherical bearing.

after i did some marking i ended up connecting some lines. the inside wheel lines i marked earlier, the outside wheel line, the center line i made by measuring the two wheel lines and using the center. as you can see theres a 2" space between the bearing centerline an the wheel centerline. now this is not the scrub radius yet, just some refrence marks.

 

Are you still running your plates like this? as i was installing my kit doing this popped in to my head. then i found your thread. would you recommend it?

 

it got late so i couldnt finish measuing the scrub radius, but i did finish measuring things. i kinda mocked up a picture i took with some of the measured points. it looks like i have definetely under 2" of positive scrub radius, maybe closer to 1.5". this number is actually ideal for me. i dont have to bad a time with torque steer. i have equal length axles that seems to help. due to this i can feel the whees give me information about when it loses grip, or when it has plenty of grip.

this is what i mean by i have equal axle lengths. lol i know its dirty under, it just isnt to important for me to clean that side of it yet.

i probabally can close in the gap in the positive scrub, but to do that ill have to use the camber plates in its original design and add more SAI. this will mean i will lose caster and it will also mean i will add more SAI which actually reduces negative camber gain when the wheels turn, opposite of what caster does, the benifits might be closing the scrub range by 10mm or so bringing it closer to 1" positive scrub radius. the extra SAI will also add a little in the roll stiffness, and it will allow the geometry to gain a slight bit more camber during suspension compression. however for everything positive it gives it takes back just as fast. the extra SAI does add roll stiffness, but at the same time due to the angle it would change the wheel rate, making it softer. the camber gain in the SAI geometry would also be lost due to the loss of extra caster when the wheel is turned. so at this point i dont think i will adjust anything scrub related, this is the best compromise atm. the only other way is to run a 8" wheel with +40-45 offset or a 7" with the same offset.

ill be measuring my bump steer next, i wanna see how much toe change there is during suspension compression and droop. it might be awhile, but ill post it when i do it.

 

I am in the same boat as you Rydzz. I am learning and researching the suspension set up as I go so I am going to have to watch this as I am running a similar set up parts wise! I actually really need to figure out how to set up all the suspension for a overall balanced performance verses just trying to get a OEM alignment out of it with such a difference with all my new parts verses the factory stuff.
I had to have Barry make a shorter set of tie rod ends for my flip kit as the ones he first gave me are too long so my toe angles are all out of whack and there is not any more adjustment left on the tie rods.
I set everything else as close to factory for the time being until I can get a better understanding of how to set everything up and what kind of specs I should be aiming for.
I also for some reason have a loud grinding/rubbing noise coming from the front somewhere I need to fix. I am thinking maybe I did something wrong when I replaced the front wheel bearings so I might very well be doing it a second time:-/

Are you getting any rubbing or clearance issues with the 8" wheel and 205/50 tires?

 

my fronts are rolled slightly, i have cut off a small section of the inner wheel liner. i know i cannot turn my wheel lock to lock without having it hit the inside of the wheel well near the crank, that and if your running a whiteline swaybar you might wanna check the clearence there. your inner tie rod could be pressed against that. as for alignment i have tried alot of setups, this is due to me having access to an alignment machine at work. until i figure out my toe problem an alignment wouldnt even matter for me. since i had a defective outter tie rod from barry, and i had a track event during the summer. i ended up ordering an aw11 flip kit for the oem outter tie rods. it was the wrong move, because the center line for the flip kit on the outter tie rod is 10mm lower than barrys kit. this translated to massive toe-in changes during suspension compression. so im switching back to the one barry setup originally, but even then barrys has told me its not near zero bump. so im going to have to grind some metal off the bottom of the knuckle where the tie rod mounts. i already grabbed some spare knuckles from cars at the local junk yard. atm im waiting for the cheap laser pen i ordered from ebay so i can mock up somthing like what the guy from the link above used.

i reinstalled the oem front swaybar, im looking for an excuse to take it off again. perhaps next year at a test and tune event so i can actually see which is faster. running 7kg front and 8kg rear. when i had no swaybars it felt very nice at the autox driving course (actual driving course). it somewhat felt like i had an lsd i could power somewhat earlier. when hitting uneven bumps it did not faze or cause the car to jolt/hop to one side. the rear also was predictable as it would slide/rotate predictablelly when you let off the gas. it was a setup that pushed you to drive by the fwd handbook.

when i reinstalled the front swaybar even as soft as the oem is it leaned less up front, but i noticed right away when i gassed on corner exit..... it was and open diff again, one wheel wonder. when it hit bumps since it was connected i could feel it on both wheels it seemed. it didnt upset the tire contact with the ground placement as bad as with the whiteline at full stiff, but you could feel it was that same type of effect.

even so with all this the car still felt funny, the steering felt off. like i had to steer more and more into a turn, i could not hold the steering wheel in a constant to hold a tight line. it became apparent when i looked at my toe change on a lift. thats why i decided to actually set it to the way i want. dam i rant on and on :rofl2:

btw this is what i ended up doing when my inner tie rods jam nut ran out of adjustment due to it hitting the outter tie rod. some cutting and making threads deeper in and this is how it looks.

 

Nice thread rdyzz.

I recently bought a long acre bump steer measuring kit and measured it on my RX-7 and it really surprised me. I had set up my adjustable tie rods and control arms (the imaginary line between the inner bolt and the ball joint) to be parallel. but when I measured it it left me with some pretty bad bump steer. I took about a 3/8" spacer out of my tie rod bolt and it now has 0 bump steer in the first inch of compression and fairly minimal bump after that. I've very happy with the results.

This is the kit I bought:
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=155&catid=5

it's kind of expensive, but worth it imo.

I haven't had a chance to measure bump steer on the corolla yet, or install barry's RCA kit. I did however install the '91 GTS brakes so I'm going to have to figure that out too when the time comes.

my rx7's a lot easier to adjust the bump steer on because the stock tie rods point up so you don't have the initial large change of flipping them:

I run 15x9 +36s and 225/45s with no sway bar in the front and they just rub a bit on full lock on either the tie rod or the control arm (possibly both) I want to add some 5mm spacers, but I think I might run out of threads on the stock studs....

I run 525 lb (9.4k) springs in the front with no sway and it feels great. fairly minimal roll but still soft enough for bumps (you can watch my track video in the thread I just made). it might be a little stiff for a daily driver though. I have a torsen LSD so unweighting tires is just as big of a no no as an open diff...

rdyzz, check out nissanroadracing.com. They have some pretty intense bump steer threads that I think you'll enjoy. Here is a recent one I saw and have been meaning to read but haven't gotten a chance:
http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=4044

 

Look into reducing your SAI and adding camber, instead, by slotting your coilover where the hub mounts. Remember SAI works against Caster, so to make a proper change you'll have to change the ratio of SAI to Caster. We have the top mounts angled back and out on my friends st185. We're still experimenting, but it's made a measureable difference. If you do try this make sure your tires will clear the struts!

Thanks! Great read so far!

 

masco i have actually thought about doing what you wrote, it was the 1st way i was gonna setup the camber plates. i was gonna set it so it moved outward to positive camber and tilt backwards for caster. i still might have to try it, but some of the things that kept me from going through with it was if i where to do it the bolt i would be using would be extremely small. atm my knuckle is already set to full negative camber and with the strut top tilted the way it is i can only muster -1.7 degrees of camber with the rca. i cant imagine where the static camber would be at with the plates pointing outwards to reduce SAI. im hoping if the caster is somewhat cancelled from SAI's effect that atlest the gain from SAI's effect on the camber curve cancels that out. which i still gain camber as the wheel turns, i tried it on the alignment machine. SAI works againts caster gain in a 1:2 ratio. while caster beats SAI's camber canceling effect at a 2:1 ratio at best. remeber SAI still adds to the roll stiffness and camber curve if used in modesty. although how much of it is neutralized im not sure of.

my thinking was since i was on street tires, was that i was gonna benifit a little more from a better camber curve under compression (roll) with the wheels slightly turned (caster effect). because we dont really turn lock to lock when we corner, so caster's effect while good will probabally only add .5 degrees of negative camber at best.

i know less SAI is good, but it would add to the positive scrub radius on my setup, and for it to work well i would have to run a +40mm offset wheel, which at that point my wheel will probabally hit my struts from the positive camber tilt. as you guys already know suspension tuning is a compromise of many things. it does really suck. damn macpherson......

its nice to know though that it works well on a strut equip car such as the st185.

 

eage8 nice driving, that pdx is alot higher speeds then the pdx i went to. theres another pdx here on oct 23rd ending the season. i dont know if im gonna make that one. some plans for winter mods are ultra racing subfram brace and superpro rack poly bushing.

i wanted to ask, with your rears being stiffer on the high speed course like that does the rear become loose or is it pretty good, this is the main thing that keeps me from doing road course events. is that my rears like yours is setup with a higher rate spring. i do know that without a rear swaybar wheen it does lose grip its not a HOLY S!!!! oversteer.

i thought about that kit you bought to measure bump steer too. i didnt think they made a 4x100 plate. also my worry was that since the dials read from the plate that camber might affect it, did you run into that at all?

 

ooo, I didn't realize super pro came out with rack bushings. Those would be nice...

I was very afraid it would be way too loose before I took it to the track but it's actually nice. Hopefully you can see from my video (I know, I need to find a better place to put the camera...) that it's very neutral in the higher speed corners. I'm running 0 toe in the back which I'm sure helps. When I first went no sway bars I was running 525/600 and upped it to 700 in the back and it's just about perfect for both. I can trail brake the rear end out but as soon as I press the gas it plants it steady.

They don't make a 4x100 plate, but you can easily drill holes in it. it doesn't have to be that accurate because you can spin the plate till it's level. and no, camber doesn't affect it, and neither does caster. it's actually a pretty genius design. you're taking the measurement of 2 points that are level with the center of the hub, so all the camber in the world won't matter. and when it moves it just measures the difference of those two points because the whole frame the dial is mounted to is just resting on the hub and moves. one side of the frame is a static length and the other one is measuring the difference. there are some good videos on youtube that you can watch so you can see how it works.

 

That's the same problem I had with my tie rod ends from Barry but instead of cutting them like how you did I had him send me new ones that are shorter. I had the car aligned the best I could but I know it was really just a waste being that I couldn't adjust the toe. I want to set the suspension to be streetable as 99% of the time that's were I drive but I also want to get some setup specs for when I happen to get on the track.
As far as getting the RCA kit to work with bigger brakes Barry and I were able to figure out how. As soon as I can get time to start a build thread I will post how we modified them to work. If you are really wanting to know right away pm me and I can send some info.

I will also have to look at sway bar clearance because I am getting so odd sounds from somewhere in the front. I still think most of the noise is from a wheel bearing but they are brand new and I can't think of what I could have done wrong to make them not work properly.

 

guys when i put the car on the alignment machine im going to measure, caster and the camber curve change with the strut tops tilted inward, tilted towards engine and towards driver, tilted away from engine and towards driver. the alignment machine will allow me to see physically whats happening, although it is a bit touch and sensitive, but for the most part it should give a picture of what the wheels are doing. im gonna do a full droop in all forms, a full compression in all forms and one with the wheels slightly turn so you can see caster vs SAI effect on camber. this should help you determine which could be good for you.

 

:bowdown: Thank You!!! We're not worthy, we're not worthy!!!

 

just got done making these after work, then the kid woke up and i had to stop.

i posted this idea from the 1st couple post, the idea is to get it level and in line with the wheel and when the suspension toe's the wheel in or out. the laser will tell you how much its moving.
http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wikidot.com/measuring-bump-steer

i also am going to make a standard bump steer gauge. its the same design as what eage8 used. im trying to see if i can build it on the cheap. atm it got the dial indicators ordered, and will have to make a frame to hold them, but i cant make the frame until i see the dials. this is so i can determine how to mount them. cost so far for the steel and dials = $36 now this home made DIY gauge might not be as good as the pro's, but it should allow me to see whats going on.

in order to adjust the bump steer i would have to grind some of the area where the outter tie rod mounts. in this case im going to start with 5mm from the bottom of the knuckle. actually that might be the limit. if i take 10mm off i might need to make a plate from the top that copies the arm. then bolt it onto the top of the arm.

i got some spare spindles from the junk yard.

 

my setup actually only has 1 gauge. I"ll take some pictures of it for you so you can see how it works. It's really nice because you don't have to do any math to get the actual bump steer...

 

i made the bump steer gauge tonight. wen to the hardware store earlier in the day and found some stuff to make the stand for the dial indicators. the grand total now is around $60, i could have made it way cheaper but when i got to the home depot my head just filled with ideas lol. its pretty simple, but i probabally could have made it wayyyyyy more simple and save alot more money, maybe $20 or so. i didnt get a chance to test it, i was done for the night when i got it made, and cleaned up. lol i ended up using ghetto car jacks to hold the suspension in static ride height. my main jack wasnt gonna fit.

 

your build is the best

rite now im trying to put/get a new engine in my 92hatchback and a red top seamed the rite choice i was wundring if there was enny thing you would of dun different on the buld to make it better

 

buzzard you can PM me for additional info, since this thread is dedicated to suspension setup. if i had more welding skills and fabrication skills yes, i could have made the swap alot better. the way i did the swap was modify as much of the stock mounts for both engines to work in one, vs making all NEW mounts.

if i could redo it and i had more skills, i would have tried to make the new mounts on the engine, that bolted right up to the factory mounting points. especially the cam timing side. also when doing the swap look for the clips that has a helical LSD. check out this site it should let you know a good deal on the engine. http://www.mr2.com/forums/beams-owners-group/

i think a 2zzge would also be a nice engine in the corolla, its lighter than the 4age, it also has the potential to surpass the beams 3sge, in a bolt on vs bolt on scenerio.

 

today i finally measured bump and a little droop, i say a little cause it was only 1" of droop. the ghetto jack i was using bottomed out and still held the suspension up. i was to lazy to jack the car up and remove it. now let me start off by saying this is the 1st time i've ever attempted measuring bump steer. im posting this experience up so that it may help benifit others who might want to do the same. the main reason i am doing this is because i have funny steering problems, i know why too, long story short, one of the MRP outter tie rod in the kit had up and down play. this was after installing it then driving for maybe 1 month. now i believe this outter tie rod end was defective. i had driving event and ended up using the aw11 flip kit from T3 with the oem outter tie rod = problem.

the 2nd reason is that i love playing around with settting a car up. its not that the car will be fast, but knowing you set up and tuned the suspension to an optimum setting. this to me is what makes me feel more connected to my car. (btw pervs im not talking bout making love with it or anything lol

) also its the difference between gradma's car and my boxy econo box that happens to get horrible gas mileage and turn really well.


this is the measurements. negative means the dial is reading toe-in positive reading is toe out. the reason i average them out of 5 measurements is because these chinese made dial indicators are... well cheap and probabally not the most accurate things, but they do work and its not like im building a rocket or somthing here.

1" compressed. front dial x 5. -.100", -.099", -.097", -.102", -.100" out of 5 measurements, average them up. -.498/5 = -.0996" rounded to -.100"

this is the rear dial x 5. .125", .129", .117", .118" .114" out of 5 measurements, average them up. .603/5 = .1206" rounded up to .121"

so -.100" - .121" = -.221"

2" compressed front dial x 5 -.191", -.189", -.188", -.193", -.194" out of 5 measurements, average them up. -.955/5 = -.191"

rear dial x 5 .199", .195", .184", .186", .184" out of 5 measurements, average them up. .948/5 = .1896 rounded to .190"

-.191" - .190" = -.381"

from what i gather the formula for figureing it out into toe deg is tire diameter/distance between two dials = y and when you get y the formula goes into y x bumpsteer total = toe deg. so in this case 16.125" is my distance between the two dials and my tire diameter being a 205/50/16 is 24.2". 24.2/16.125 = 1.5

so correct me if im wrong here but this is what i got.
now 1.5 is the number i get. 1.5 x -.221 = -.33 deg toe movement, this is in the 1" of travel. my static toe is .15 toe out. so at 1" suspension compression i would be at .18 deg toe in.


1.5 x -.381 = -.57 deg toe movement. so at 2" of suspension compresson or fully compressed my static to of .15 deg toe out becomes .42 deg toe in.


its a very huge jump in numbers.

droop is 1" measured only. .082" for the front dial and -.102" for the second dial = .184" total

now all these numbers in toe changes are HUGE... no wonder my steering feels off and funny. supposedly a good setup or a good toe curve is somewhere in the .010" change total. thats 1/64" or .01 deg of toe change throughout the suspension travel.... well since the corolla is a mass production vehicle whose suspension is a compromise between tire wear, ride, cost and packaging im not sure ill get that, but maybe close

this being my doing. the culprit is the oem outter tie rods, add to that the spacing from the aw11 flip kit and you bring the center line of the outter tie rod 10mm lower then the original outter tie rods from the MRP kit. also since my strut top is tilted for caster, it also affects the position of the toe mounting point bringing it lower.

lol eage8 i bet your glad you didnt have to do so much averaging and math like this DIY home depot built bump steer gauge. im thinking that i might eventually buy one still.

 

so after reading some more i found out that maybe the formula i used is backwards.http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_1001_bump_steer_explained/dirt_track_racing.html it seems the formula is bumpsteer gaugle width / tire diameter. so 16.125/24.2 = .66

it would mean those measurements from up to are .66 x -.221 = 15 degree toe in change at 1" and .66 x -.381 = .25 degree to in change at 2" fully compressed.

so the numbers for the MRP outter tie rod is not perfect from start. even talking to barry he agrees, he said its closer to a factory spec then an optimised spec.
1" was -.181 total so .66 x -.181 = .12 degree toe in change. 2" was -.304 total so .66 x -.304 = .20 degree toe in change.

after taking it to the grinder and taking 10mm off the numbers changed quite a bit. 1" compressed now was -.085, so .66 x -.085 = .06 deg total toe in change. and at 2" compress it was -.114 so .66 x -.114 = .08 degree toe in change.

after tilting the strut top back to factory spec. it moved the toe arm up 3mm. i also recorded the change.
1" compressed was -.031 so .66 x -.031 = .02 degrees of toe in movement. at 2" fully compressed it was -.105 so .66 x -.105 = .07 degrees of toe in movement.

this is very good, its means im moving in the right direction as far as taking material off. however im at the limit of what i feel is safe to take off. talking to barry he suggest that i cut off the mounting point and make plates to bolt on the arm. i will probabally do that, but that is a project for mid winter when i have less to do and need somthing to keep me thinking. thats also the reason why i grabbed spare spindles from the junk yard.

 

have you measured what the bump steer is in the stock tie rod location? I wonder how bad it is with stock ball joints and tie rods when the car is lowered...

 

eage8 i was thinking i might measure my friends ae92 lowered on eibach. i did not measure the bump with the rca stud and the tie rod at the oem spot. i did put the tie rod on top and bolted it. but the tie rod was already past its horizontal position, making me think it would give large amounts of toe out for sure.
i remeasured today. it turns out i wasnt paying attention to the 2nd dial and thought it was in the .073 when in fact the dial went backward and got a -.027.

i remeasured it and i think it did hit the sweet spot. this time paying close attention to the gauges.

at 1/2" it was -.019 x .66 = -.012 or .01 degrees toe-in. at 1" it was -.029 x .66 = -.019 or .02 degree toe-in. at 1 1/2" it was -.024 x .66 = -.015 or .02 degree toe-in. fully compressed at 2" it was -.005 x .66 = .0033 or .003 degree toe-in

 

nice

I've read it's not good to have the bump steer change directions in the middle of the travel... it makes the steering less predictable. but those values seem low enough that it shouldn't matter too much...

 

Here are my numbers for my FC after I fixed the front (the back was damn near perfect stock 0_o )
RX7 Front: (negative = droop)
-2" = -.0345" = .116*
-1" = -.0125" = .042*
-0.5" = -.007" = .023*
0 = 0
1" = 0
2" = -.0085" = .028*

first number is inches over a 17" plate...

EDIT: oh, nvm, I see what you were doing wrong. your bump steer formula was right the first time. you have to multiply your bump measurements by 1.5 to account for the tire being larger than the toe plate.

 

Are you planning on measuring the rear? I'm not sure how you would really change it... but it might be interesting. you might be able to modify it slightly with camber plates *shrug*

Rear of my RX7 (silly perfect):
-1" = 0.004"
-0.5" = 0.004"
0 = 0"
0.5" = -0.005"
1" = -0.004"
1.5" = -0.001"
2" = -0.006"

 

i see, so i did have the formula right the 1st time. its confusing how if you have the formula backwards it can read differently. i wasnt able to find a site that had the solid formula.

but i dont think the rear will change much. since the two arms, the toe arm and the one in front of it are equal length and mounted in the same plane.

i know my gauge isnt perfect, but it seems im either mm off the sweet spot or im in it and this is it lol.

 

it's actually easier just to take the degrees right off the toe plate instead of converting at all using trig...

1" it was -.029 x .66 = -.019 or .02 degree toe-in.

using those numbers it would be sin^-1(.029/16.125)= 0.103 degrees.

 

i aligned the car tonight, its night and day difference. it almost feels like the car leans much less, it also takes a line very very tightly. i can also apply throttle very early on. its crazy how much a difference this makes, it even feels better then some stock sports cars i've driven's steering line. im very happy with this now.

 

so from my last event, i feel that the ae92 does perform very well with high negative camber, -2.5 or more. at the last pdx event it felt great. i also tested widening the track 50mm total with 25mm wheel spacers each side. this changed the wheel rate, seemed to of made the suspension a slight bit softer, but with the increased track the car handled so much more easier. i used wheel spacers as a test piece, im going to try and have barry make extended 1" rca balljoint plates. this should improve the geometry change, and keep the scrub radius unchanged. the only change might be the SAI, but well see how tilting the camber plate's to the full positive position works.


some other plans are to make a brake duct. gonna run ae111 superstrut dual piston calipers too.

some updates, and some things to come.

it doesnt look it but the front fender is extremely rolled and pushed out, thats why im using the zip ties, cause the wheel is hitting my bumper and fender. maybe ill cut and put a fender flare on.

a rough drawing, but this should be what the brake duct plate looks like, its going to bolt onto the spots that the oem brake shield bolts onto.

my zenki levin bumper from ep importers

os giken clutch lsd, from an os website.

 

What rotors are you running with the SS calipers? Are brake pads for then obtainable?

Is that a 1" brake duct? I'd probably make it bigger than that. My FC has 3" ducts on it

 

ill have to experiment with the brake duct. maybe i'll do somthing like this.

pads are the same as the sw20 pads, the two pistons surface area = the same surface area of the gts caliper piston, but i guess its supposed to have a better feel. as for rotors, i have to wait til i go pick these up from my buddy. i let him use it years back when i did the 20v swap, he never installed them. some people use 259-262mm machined celica rotors. ill have to see if the 90' ae92 gts stock rotor has the same offset being 258mm, cause i honestly dont think the 1-2mm will make to much a difference unless i can find the actual 275mm rotor. i mainly want to test out to see if they do give a better feel. i would also like to find what the acual PN for the ae111 levin bzr front rotor is.

i remember reading somewhere, the starlet ep82 guys use these with the 96'+ celica caliper bracket and it allows them to fin the 275mm rotor, except there might still be slight offsetting issues.

 

Here is what the duct on my RX7 looks like, you have to make sure it gets into the hat so it can blow through the vents of the rotor. A lot of people just use the stock brake heat shield and screw an inlet into it.

then I used to universal ducks from HRP for the bumper intakes (just replaced my stock fog lights with them.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Duct-Single-Bumper&form_prod_id=67&action=product


brush up on this thread about the brakes:
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/faq/142-ae82-ae92-ae101-brake-upgrade-guide.html

the SS rotor is also 25mm thick instead of 22mm and has a different center bore that you'll have to get a spacer for (or a AE101 hub)