So I took the car apart today. I cleaned 3 sensors (not sure which one was which) between the air filter and the throttle body with MAF cleaner spray. Then I also cleaned the throttle body with MAF cleaner spray. Since I removed everything between the air filter and throttle body, I had a clear view of the fuel filter and decided to change that too. I will have to go back and check my auto records, but it looks like the fuel filter had been replaced before since one of the bolts connecting the filter bracket to the frame was missing. I've read that others had trouble with the bottom bolt connecting the fuel line to the fuel filter, but mine came off pretty easy with CRC Freeze-Off.

I put everything back together and my only screw up was breaking the head off one of the bolts that attach the lower air filter box to the frame. I thought it should be firmly against the frame with no movement, but that is evidently not the case. For the time being it looks like once everything was back together the air filter housing wasn't moving one bit. I'm just happy I don't have any fuel leaking.

Good news is that all the OBDII trouble codes have gone away.

But now the bad news is I am fairly certain I have a bad alternator, or at least the bearings are bad. I was so concerned about those trouble codes that I didn't realize most (if not all) of the problems I was having was from the alternator. I missed work today to work on the car. Now I gotta miss more time tomorrow to replace the alternator.

 

D'oh! All my problems stemmed from a disconnected vacuum hose to the MAP sensor (I think it is the MAP sensor) that was giving the P0106 code. It is attached to frame just under the cabin air intake, and I missed it cause I thought it would be attached to the intake air assembly between the air filter and the throttle body like the 3 other sensors I cleaned. Don't know how it became disconnected, it must have slowly worked lose over time. There was no little clip on it to keep it snug on the sensor.

 

ouch, that disconnected vacuum hose for MAP was surely messing everything up. my 5s-fe was almost stalling at idle without it and ran like crap.
glad you noticed it, I was about to suggest checking that yesterday, but got busy with other stuff and forgot about this thread.

did the other 2 codes come back or it's all good by now?

FYI, I broke the very same (one out of three) bolts holding down the airbox bottom. just remove the airbox and use vice grips to remove it if the broken piece is sticking out (mine was).
later on I actually broke the other one too LOL! :lol: and it broken off under the surface, so I had to use a left hand drill bit to remove (went smooth too). I have gotten new bolts 3 from dealer and replaced them all, also putting an extra layer of "custom cushioning" around the bolt threads to make it sit flush

... I actually used an old thick rubber-fabric mouse pad from my old PC and cut out 1x1 inch square pieces and made a hole in middle with scissors and put each bolt through it worked like a charm :lol:

 

ouch, that disconnected vacuum hose for MAP was surely messing everything up. my 5s-fe was almost stalling at idle without it and ran like crap.
glad you noticed it, I was about to suggest checking that yesterday, but got busy with other stuff and forgot about this thread.

did the other 2 codes come back or it's all good by now?

I appreciate the reply now, but I wished you had suggested that earlier. I really lost alot of sleep over it. I didn't realize that sensor was there at all. I think I need to buy a Haynes Repair Manual. I hadn't in the past because I thought I could get what I need from internet searches, and the manual doesn't even have color photos, or step by step instructions. But at a minimum I guess it would tell me what all the parts are.

But the good news is that all the trouble codes are gone and no CEL. In the end everything worked out and cost was minimal, though it took alot of time.

FYI, I broke the very same (one out of three) bolts holding down the airbox bottom. just remove the airbox and use vice grips to remove it if the broken piece is sticking out (mine was).
later on I actually broke the other one too LOL! :lol: and it broken off under the surface, so I had to use a left hand drill bit to remove (went smooth too). I have gotten new bolts 3 from dealer and replaced them all, also putting an extra layer of "custom cushioning" around the bolt threads to make it sit flush

... I actually used an old thick rubber-fabric mouse pad from my old PC and cut out 1x1 inch square pieces and made a hole in middle with scissors and put each bolt through it worked like a charm :lol:

That's a good idea about the mouse pad. Glad it's not just me who thinks the airbox bottom should be flush against the frame. I bought a bolt from an auto parts store, hope it fits. Hate to go to the dealer for just one bolt.

 

Flush your power steering, flush your tranny and at the minimum turkey baste your brake fluid..........these cars need maintenance to be reliable.....

 

That is on my list of things to do. I am concerned about where to dispose it if I do it myself.

What does turkey baste the brake fluid mean? I assume using a turkey baster to suck out as much as you can from the reservoir, refilling it and bleeding the brakes?