I4 of V6? Assuming because you said chain, it is the I4... but why would you change it? The chains don't need to be changed at all, unless some sort of issue came up.

The V6 has a belt and does need to be changed after 100k.

 

I4 of V6? The chains don't need to be changed at all, unless some sort of issue came up.

It is an I4 2AZ-FE and the issue that came up was that it had the notorious head bolt thread issue. Where the threads of the aluminum block gave out. So that happened around 145K and when I did that repair I thought "Might as well change the chain since it's already taken apart".

 

Chain replacement, really?
Post a pic of the worn out chain. Post a vid on how you're checking the spark on 2/4.

 

Like I explained in the last comment it wasn't really worn out, just changed out to be safe. Now the new issue was that around 185K miles there was a strange noise coming from the engine. Turns out it was the chain making the noise. The same thread problem with the aluminum threads happened to one of the timing chain guide bolts. So there was excessive chain slack. When I replaced the guides I noticed a small black plastic slide cover (????) on the tensioner side guide, when I compared it to the old guide I could obviously tell it had fallen off the old one. So you can imagine the noise it made with so much chain slack. So that is why I removed my chain. And after I put everything back together, this "No spark" problem happened.
Now my method of checking for spark was using a spark tester, and just to be sure I did it the old fashioned way by sticking a metal rod in the coil and putting it close to a ground source.

So youre sure that the spark plugs are still good and the coils themselves are still good?

The spark plugs are not even 15k miles old so they are good. And I swapped around the coils from known good cylinders 1 and 3

 

So youre sure that the spark plugs are still good and the coils themselves are still good?

 

Did you swap out the coil packs with 1 and 3 to see if the problem goes along with the coil pack?

 

Yes I did and the coil pack are not the problem. There is no spark regardless of the coil pack. I even switched the coil packs from 2 and 4 to 1 and 3 and they work perfectly.

My recommendation is to disconnect/reconnect everything electrical and start from scratch. Use the FSM and test everything all over again(cold resistance values).

Somewhere something is not fully connected, connected to the wrong plug, failed when you touched it, or shorted. Dig in all over again.

What is FSM??

I actually took apart everything twice, down to the chain and everything seems perfect. But I will have to check the cold resistance values.

Now can the engine start without the A/C, alternator, and O2 sensor connectors connected???

The weird thing is that I never touched the ignition harness (Cam sensor also in same harness) except for the coil pack connectors. The only thing that I did move around, considerably, was the crank sensor harness.

 

We got someone already mastering the profit margin of the 'stripped head bolt issue'. Good for you.

My recommendation is to disconnect/reconnect everything electrical and start from scratch. Use the FSM and test everything all over again(cold resistance values).

Somewhere something is not fully connected, connected to the wrong plug, failed when you touched it, or shorted. Dig in all over again.

 

FSM=factory service manual

 

I checked the cold resistance values and they are in spec. The crank sensor resistance is a little on the high side but still in spec.

I even engaged and disengaged PASSIVE MODE but that didn't help at all.

I know this Camry has an immobilizer but do any of you know how to disengage or reset it????????:help: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/images/smilies/SM030.gif

 

I would double check the cam sensor as it is the one that determines the spark timing to which cylinder. It may not be seated properly or the timing "cog" is not in the correct position (reversed?). Just a thought.