Toyota Forum banner

Observations from changing Oil, Tranny, Transfer case, F&R Diffs

4K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Ambrose  
#1 ·
At 20K, besides usual motor oil change, decided to change all the fluids. Figure a 1000 miles in 4wd and often towing were good enough reason to do it now.

Running Penzoil platnium full syn in motor. They just came out with new formula, and for $18 bucks for 5 quarts, why not.

In Manual transmission, transfer case, and front differential used 5q of 75w-90 full synthetic. Tranny & transfer case were pretty clean. Front diff was a bit dirty.

In Rear differential (LSD) ran 3q Quaker State 80w-90 Synthetic blend. Full syn not offered in that weight except amsoil and redline, and those aren't easily purchased around here. The old fluid was filthy and stunk. No LSD chatter, will add friction additive if needed.

The drain and fill plugs are the large 24mm socket, except the front diff is a 10 mm hex key. I sprayed all the plugs with wd-40 before trying to get off. Most were rusted pretty good after 2 winters in salted roads. All plugs had a bit metal shavings stuck to the magnet. One tip, an empty 28 lb pail of cat litter holds all the fluids nicely.

Well, took a couple hours but was time well spent. Tranny is smoother shifting, and she shifted in and out of 4hi & 4lo and back again quicker than normal (or maybe it was a good day). Total for gear & motor oil was $100. Figure the dealer offers the same service for $350, and with cheapest oil.
 
#3 ·
Ambrose- here's an older thread where I posted alot of info, including P/N's and torque specs. I ended up using a hand pump as you won't be able to pour any of the oil into any of the housings:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120918&page=3

Good luck and let us know how it goes....

Ambrose said:
I am getting ready to do this myself: what are the torque settings for the plugs and what did you use for a hand pump? Or did you replace the gear oils via gravity feed?
Thanks
Ambrose
 
#4 ·
I did the rear diff gravity. The rest used the $5 pump from auto store. The manual tranny was the most difficult to pump into. Torqued all plugs to 29 lbs. The hex plug on front diff, couldnt use torque wrench. So hand tighten to my best guess.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, on the front diff drain plug, there is (was on mine) a line of blue paint, half on the plug and half on the housing. I just torqued it till the paint lines matched up again.

Just some advice...both the x-fer case and the front diff spewed/shot oil out at a fairly quick rate (they both drain to the side, not out the bottom). Be ready for it. The x-fer case shot oil a good 1.5 to 2 feet out.
 
#6 · (Edited)
demoncleaner said:
In Rear differential (LSD) ran 3q Quaker State 80w-90 Synthetic blend - will add friction additive if needed.

I know I took your quote a little out of context, but I was hopeing someone could answer this question for me.

I have used synthetics for years in every thing I own, even the riding mower. I never understood why would someone pay for the superior performance of a fully synthetic, or a semi- synthetic, then add a Friction Additave? To me it seems like this defeats the purpose of using a synthetic or a synthetic blend.

Your paying to get less friction and heat, then your paying again, to get it back in an additive.

The reasion for the question is- Ford tried to quick fix my 05 F-150 doing this a month before they had to replace the rear end. This was the last straw on a long list of problems that lead me to trade it on the Tacoma.