Hey guys, my first oil change is coming up this weekend. I used to take my old truck to a Texaco Express Lube, but I'm kinda skidish since this truck is my baby (the best truck I have ever owned!) I want to start off right and use sythnetic oil. Do ya'll take your truck and pay for an oil change or do you do it yourself. If you do it yourself what kind of oil do you use, also what kind of grease is best it is a 4x4. Any info would be greatly appriciated.
musclemag54
^^ (all) lol
Tim is right...stick with a dealor or find your own reliable mechanic.
umm...as for doing it yourself:
1. Look in the manual or read the top of your oil cap...either they say 5w30 or 10w30.
2. Decide on staying dino or switching to synthetic. (since you want to do it yourself, you could use the money you saved to buy good synthetic) Two suggestions: Castrol for dino or Mobil for synthetic (there are other good ones, but lets keep it simple)
3.Oil filters... you could do a toyota or try mobil or bosch filters.
4. Think about getting an oil filter wrench, used oil container, see if your local autoparts store takes used oil for free.
5. God Speed!
Tim is right...stick with a dealor or find your own reliable mechanic.
umm...as for doing it yourself:
1. Look in the manual or read the top of your oil cap...either they say 5w30 or 10w30.
2. Decide on staying dino or switching to synthetic. (since you want to do it yourself, you could use the money you saved to buy good synthetic) Two suggestions: Castrol for dino or Mobil for synthetic (there are other good ones, but lets keep it simple)
3.Oil filters... you could do a toyota or try mobil or bosch filters.
4. Think about getting an oil filter wrench, used oil container, see if your local autoparts store takes used oil for free.
5. God Speed!
We have the Blue for recycle, Green for shrubbery, and Black for trash.
The Blue can doesn't allow any dumping of oild or any sorts, I have to take my used oild to kragen/autozone.
The Blue can doesn't allow any dumping of oild or any sorts, I have to take my used oild to kragen/autozone.
that's the problem, I dont' remember them taking filters. nor did i see any containers for used filters when i went to the area where they had the big oil container.
You're right...I'll take it with me and I'll ask...will end up in the trash again if they say no, so it couldn't hurt.
You're right...I'll take it with me and I'll ask...will end up in the trash again if they say no, so it couldn't hurt.
I take my oil to the county recycle center, they take everything from old water heaters to used oil, radiator fluid, etc. They have a bin for used filters too.
Been changing my own oil since my first vehicle (34 years ago). Gives me a chance to inspect out the underside as well. I use Castrol GTX 5w30 with a Toyota OEM filter. Once I am out of warranty I may go to synthetic but the UOA on the GTX @ 5k was very good. I take the used oil and filter to a recycle center at the local Fire Dept.
Manual recommends following grease:
NLGI No.2 Lithium Base Chassis Grease for the universal joint
NLGI No. 2 Molybdenum Disulfide Lithium Base Chassis Grease dbl yoke
Currently changing oil for 5 family vehicles
Manual recommends following grease:
NLGI No.2 Lithium Base Chassis Grease for the universal joint
NLGI No. 2 Molybdenum Disulfide Lithium Base Chassis Grease dbl yoke
Currently changing oil for 5 family vehicles
Back40 and others certainly have given you a lot of great advice.
If you're not afraid to get your hands a little dirty, do it yourself. Like he says, it gives you a chance to spot issues before you hear them or they get worse. You also know what you can depend on yourself for. Alternatively (and not a bad idea for those times when you don't have the time to change the oil before a trip), find someone you can trust to do it -but don't rely on a chain for consistency. I happen to use a Firestone place I know. I know the managers, I've watched their work, and they've given me plenty of reason to trust them when they could've done something easier and more profitable for themselves. Read PopMechanics or other sources for hints on oil changes (btw, many sources such as PM and online auto help sites will recommend prefilling the filter. Many argue it's not important, but it's easy, free, and can't hurt. -search the forum for a description.)
I am moving my daughter to Kansas next month for grad school, and she is buying her first car. I plan to go with her to a couple of local shops, as well as look around the dealership, to find someone she might trust. Among the questions I'll ask- a)tell me how you do an oil change? (I'm looking for prefill of the filter for bonus points, and selection of oil viscosity based on mfr's recommendation as a necessity. Checking dipstick after running the engine is also an important sign. -I don't use our Walmart because they slap a non-prefilled filter on, fill the crankcase, and send it out to the lot, without rechecking the dipstick after running the engine.); b) how often do you recommend an oil change -bonus points if they say to follow the mfr's severe duty recommendations and/or the oil svc reminder on the dash; c) what tire pressure do you use on passenger cars, minivans, and mid-size trucks -I'm looking for them to say that they fill to the pressure on the door placard, if they give me fixed numbers based on their "experience", this is a loss of points; d) how do you install the lugnuts when you reinstall or rotate tires? - Best is to tighten in cross pattern and use a torque wrench for final torque (though few do that),Acceptable is to use an impact wrench up to a torque well below the mfr's spec, then final torque with a torque wrench, unacceptable is to "Spin that sucka up w/ the impact wrench good and tight." Anyway, you get the idea.
If you're not afraid to get your hands a little dirty, do it yourself. Like he says, it gives you a chance to spot issues before you hear them or they get worse. You also know what you can depend on yourself for. Alternatively (and not a bad idea for those times when you don't have the time to change the oil before a trip), find someone you can trust to do it -but don't rely on a chain for consistency. I happen to use a Firestone place I know. I know the managers, I've watched their work, and they've given me plenty of reason to trust them when they could've done something easier and more profitable for themselves. Read PopMechanics or other sources for hints on oil changes (btw, many sources such as PM and online auto help sites will recommend prefilling the filter. Many argue it's not important, but it's easy, free, and can't hurt. -search the forum for a description.)
I am moving my daughter to Kansas next month for grad school, and she is buying her first car. I plan to go with her to a couple of local shops, as well as look around the dealership, to find someone she might trust. Among the questions I'll ask- a)tell me how you do an oil change? (I'm looking for prefill of the filter for bonus points, and selection of oil viscosity based on mfr's recommendation as a necessity. Checking dipstick after running the engine is also an important sign. -I don't use our Walmart because they slap a non-prefilled filter on, fill the crankcase, and send it out to the lot, without rechecking the dipstick after running the engine.); b) how often do you recommend an oil change -bonus points if they say to follow the mfr's severe duty recommendations and/or the oil svc reminder on the dash; c) what tire pressure do you use on passenger cars, minivans, and mid-size trucks -I'm looking for them to say that they fill to the pressure on the door placard, if they give me fixed numbers based on their "experience", this is a loss of points; d) how do you install the lugnuts when you reinstall or rotate tires? - Best is to tighten in cross pattern and use a torque wrench for final torque (though few do that),Acceptable is to use an impact wrench up to a torque well below the mfr's spec, then final torque with a torque wrench, unacceptable is to "Spin that sucka up w/ the impact wrench good and tight." Anyway, you get the idea.
Well unless you know a mechanic or have no place to do it, I would change it myself. The reason is that for one thing it's cheaper, plus if I do it then I know it will get done correctly. Not to mention I get to use better materials ae:filter, oil etc..... Another reason is that, and I don't know why, every place I've ever been to to have my oil changed has stripped the shit out of my drain plug. Now maybe this doesn't bother others the way it bothers me but I see no need in this senseless, unneccessary act. You tighten the drain plug, not strip. Simple....or at least one would think And most places will take used oil for free as well as the filter. Recycle baby.....recycle!
And most places will take used oil for free as well as the filter. Recycle baby.....recycle!Was going to the dealership for oil changes because for the price usually around $25 wasnt too bad. Now they dont have hours after 5 pm and they dont do weekends, WTH. So when my 30K mile service came due I bought all the stuff some from Toyota and some from local parts store. Switched everything over to synthetic fluids and total cost was barely $100 for what the dealership wanted $300 for at most places Ive heard of.
When I do use another shop to change my oil, I specify what oil and filter, or bring my own.
Until you know your shop well enough, don't assume that they will put the correct grade and viscosity of oil, much less a quality brand, in your sump. Most use bulk oil at less than $1/qt, usually with only one tank, so one viscosity fits none. It's getting better now, but for a while few had the 5W20 for my wife's Ody or the 5W30 for my Taco.
In any event, the add'l charge they might make is usually not much (if that's not the case, find another shop) and generally if you have to supply your own filter to get the kind you want, they credit you the price of their in-house filter (which is alarmingly little).
A good shop will accommodate you. My wife was embarrassed the first time I sent her with our own filter, but the guys made it so simple for her that she said it was like ordering veggies instead of fries with her meal at a restaurant.
Until you know your shop well enough, don't assume that they will put the correct grade and viscosity of oil, much less a quality brand, in your sump. Most use bulk oil at less than $1/qt, usually with only one tank, so one viscosity fits none. It's getting better now, but for a while few had the 5W20 for my wife's Ody or the 5W30 for my Taco.
In any event, the add'l charge they might make is usually not much (if that's not the case, find another shop) and generally if you have to supply your own filter to get the kind you want, they credit you the price of their in-house filter (which is alarmingly little).
A good shop will accommodate you. My wife was embarrassed the first time I sent her with our own filter, but the guys made it so simple for her that she said it was like ordering veggies instead of fries with her meal at a restaurant.
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